Frigidaire Dryer runs, spins, heats and blows air but clothes don't dry

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Old 05-17-11, 08:05 PM
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Frigidaire Dryer runs, spins, heats and blows air but clothes don't dry

Everything seems in working order - it heats up fine, it spins fine, I checked and I get what seems like good air flow out the vent at the back of the house. It runs through a complete cycle just fine as well. The only problem is that the clothes don't get dry. Even after 2 complete cycles the clothes aren't dry.

After reading up a bit here my next step is to run it without the vent attached and see if I get dry clothes, but based on the air flow out the back of the house, it doesn't seem restricted.

Assuming I still get no dry clothes with no vent, what should I check next?
 
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Old 05-18-11, 03:11 AM
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Take vent off backj of dryer and feel air flow, Go outside and feel air flow should be about same, or disconnect vent and dry a load o clothes see how it works, Are the clothes warn right after dryer stops.?
 
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Old 05-18-11, 05:23 AM
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Tried running without the vent last night. Ran a short cycle on clothes that had already gone through a cycle but hadn't dried much. Ran for maybe 30 mins on the auto cycle and the clothes were still damp and not warm. Air out flow the back felt similar to the air flow out the back of the house, but the air wasn't warm.

I ran the drier empty the other day for a few minutes and the cavity was very warm, the back air inlet was hot to the touch.

So, it's heating up but either not hot enough or not for long enough, maybe kicking off too soon. What should I check next and how?
 
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Old 05-18-11, 05:52 AM
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Hello salguod and Welcome into the Gas Appliances topic.

Most likely cause is defective solenoids. There are 2 gas solenoids located on top of the gas control valve. Remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate and replace them both if defective.

They are sold only in pairs. Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.

Defective Gas Valve could be the problem. Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing.

CAUTION: Do Not attempt to repair the gas valve! This is a non repairable item. Replacement is the only option, if found to be defective.

>Read the sticky note for additional information. Gas Dryer Information and Advice Link: here:

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs or services. Always check for gas leaks whenever moving the appliance and/or a service or repair includes any connection of a gas part.

Read the existing questions on the subject of dryers. Doing so will more quickly provide you with answers to questions & provide additional information on how to resolve dryer problems.
 
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Old 05-21-11, 08:55 AM
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Looking at the parts catalogs, I see 'coils' but no solenoids on the valve. Are these what you mean?
 
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Old 05-21-11, 10:19 AM
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Yes....coils are the parts that create the magnetic field that pulls the valves open. A solenoid contains coils inside it...normally a solenoid is a self contained non-repairable unit and operates an external lever or rod.

In this case it looks like the coils are replaceable separately.
 
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Old 05-21-11, 01:07 PM
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If it's not the coils/solenoid, then what? I checked them with an Ohm meter and they seem to measure properly based on my internet research. The 2 prong coil measures ~575 across the outer two of the 3 pin coil, and ~1400 and ~1900 between the other pairs. The 2 pin coil measured ~1300. I have a set of new coils here and they measure slightly higher, but very close. I'll put the new coils in, but I'm skeptical that it's the problem.

I did discover a fracture in the lip of the drum and a missing chunk of metal. From the looks of the wear pattern on the paint, it's been like this for some time. There is no wear on the missing piece I found in the bottom of the cabinet and the wear on one side of the crack is much greater than on the other side. The felt seal on the front panel seems unaffected by this:

Lip:

From inside:

From outside:


I'm not sure how this might contribute to the problem I'm having, however. Part of me sees this as a serious problem, another part of me says it's run like this for a while, don't worry about it. A new drum is $250, a lot to spend on a 10 year old machine.
 
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Old 05-21-11, 03:32 PM
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Have you cleaned the vent to the out side? Most dryer problems start there. The felt look rusty, If it is you will get rust stains on clothes soon. Coils will let dryer heat for a minute or so than it will not heat again for a couple of hours.
 
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Old 05-21-11, 07:03 PM
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I have not cleaned the vent, but I was getting pretty similar air flow out the back of the house and out the back of the dryer with no vent connected. Also, the problem remained with the vent removed.

Haven't put it back together with the new coils yet, will do that tomorrow after church and see what I get.
 
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Old 05-22-11, 11:18 AM
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Put it back together with new coils, and low and behold, it works fine. Surprising since the coils seemed to check out with a meter.

Decided to ignore the crack in the drum since it had evidently been that way for a long time. Hopefully I can get another few years out of it and the washer.
 
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Old 05-22-11, 03:08 PM
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Coils will ohm out good until they get hot , when one of the wires in them open and will not work until they cool.
 
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