1950's Wedgewood Oven

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Old 03-12-12, 10:09 AM
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1950's Wedgewood Oven

I have a 1950's Wedgewood stove in which the oven is not working. I was unable to find a manufactures plate but it is the one with the clock/timer on top, a shelf that can fold down, 4 burners, the griddle in the middle of the four burners, one oven, and a storage compartment on the left of the stove. The stove runs on propane and the stove and griddle functions beautifully, it is just the oven that has a problem.

Through much internet research I have narrowed the problem down to one of four things:
1) The thermocoupler is bad.
2) Something to do with the clock/timer preventing the oven from being in manual mode.
3) The safety valve is not working properly.
4) The thermostat is not working properly.

This is what I have done to troubleshoot so far:
The pilot light stays lit and glows a pretty blue color directly on the thermocoupler. I replaced the thermocoupler (hopefully with the right one, when I bought it the people didn't seem like they knew what they were talking about but it looks exactly like the old one I replaced). I also made sure the little knob on the clock was turned to M for manual mode. So, with the above done I turned the thermostat to 350, nothing. I then held down the safety valve red button and held it for a few seconds and slowly released it, nothing. I tried lighting the oven manually, nothing. It appears no gas is getting to the burner, just the pilot.

So at this point I am thinking it has something to do with my safety valve or themostat (unless there is something about my thermocoupler or clock that I am missing). So my question is, how can I tell which one is causing the problem? I ask this because I realize that I am probably going to have to have the part rebuilt which involves me removing the part and mailing it somewhere for repair. I don't want to remove the wrong part and pay a pretty penny just to find out it was the other part that was bad.

So please let me know if I have missed anything in my troubleshooting steps so far and any help you can provide in determining the actual problem would be extremely helpful and will help save me money I don't have.

Thank you.
 
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Old 03-13-12, 10:23 AM
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I have another question that may help me with the first question. I just found I may be able to get a working safety valve and thermostat from another wedgewood that was running on natural gas. I read this forum post: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ki...ood-stove.html
So my question is, do I need to do anything special if I take the safety valve and thermostat from a natural gas oven and put them into my propane oven since all the burners will remain the same in my propane oven? If not what would I need to do?

Thanks!
 
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Old 03-13-12, 09:23 PM
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There should be no difference in the thermostats. Its quite possible the valves maybe different. I'm not familar with a range that old. Do you hear or feel a click or anything while turning the t-stat on and off? If not that maybe your culprit. The thermo-couple is good otherwise you would not have a standing pilot. What I'm having trouble making sense of is the clock, timer, manual mode controls. What other positions does the knob have? Something you might try if you haven't already, with the pilot on, t-stat on 350, take a wrench and tap on the side of the valve. Don't get rough with it but if its just sticking closed, maybe on account of age, sometimes[hardly ever] that'll open it up, in which case it should probably be replaced anyway. Good luck.
 
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Old 03-14-12, 07:40 AM
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Hello: NJR

If the pilot flame is all blue and impinging on the safety elements tip so it glows an orange color, then we can be sure the thermocouple is being heated fully. A requirement so it can and will produce enough energy to keep the safety opened. If the safety does in fact work. May or may not be working. No real way to be sure. But be sure red reset button is fully depressed and held depressed for slightly more than 60 seconds before slowly releasing it.

Next. Be sure all the control settings are in manual. Knob may have slipped for the manual setting and not be in manual. Verify each setting once again. Those older models must be set in the correct settings. Try an alternate setting if possible not in manual if possible if the clock still works. Not likely but possible.

If any of the above fail to make oven work, it's possible to bypass the clock with electrical power off or stove unplugged. Clock should have two wires which if does can be removed and electrical taped over to prevent shorts. This only applies to some models and not all models.

Not likely a thermostat problem. Can be a gas valve to burner problem. Valve stuck not allowing gas to pass through. Try the tape on it trick mentioned above. Might work but not likely unless you're lucky....

Look for a tiny isolation gas shut off valve some where in the gas piping entering either into the thermostat or out of it. Some models have such so repairs can be made without turning off gas supply to entire appliance. Years ago there where no gas shut offs on the main gas supply to the appliance from pipe sticking up through a floor or through a wall behind the appliance....
 
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Old 10-31-12, 10:45 PM
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Manual Setting

How do you know where the manual setting is for the clock? I don't see an M on my clockface. HELP!
 
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Old 11-01-12, 06:06 AM
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Hello Anthea and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and the Gas Appliances topic.

The 1950's era models for that brand had several different model types and each used a different type and or style of clock. All based upon the options a stove had. The more deluxe models had lots of optional choices. Those models with the selective baking cycles built into the clock must have electrical power to the clock to allow oven/broiler burner to operate.

Therefore, we need to know if appliance is plugged into electrical outlet and power is at the outlet. Yes there is power or No there is not power? Kindly advise. Important to know.

Model should have an oven light that turns on when door opens or switch on front panel is turned on and/or hood light switch on front panel maybe is turned on. Light turns on? Advise also.

If there is power, does clock still work??? Yes or No? Advise.

If power is on and clock does not work that's okay and very likely it does not. But the knob that rotates (usually very tiny white knob) within the clock face should have an indicator section (tiny window in clock face) that shows an M for manual or displays word MAN or an indicator pointing to or on either the 'M' or 'Man' or word >Off< etc.

Read The Sticky Advice And Information Note In This Topic: Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information & Manufacturers Web Sites. http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808 Section pertaining to 50's era stove brands and or models.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using the reply button keeps or moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically and keeps all communications on this subject in this thread.
 
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