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Advice for diagnosing/fixing timer clocks on vintage 1953 Merritt O'Keefe?


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11-24-12, 05:57 AM   #1 (permalink)  
Advice for diagnosing/fixing timer clocks on vintage 1953 Merritt O'Keefe?

I just bought it and the clocks worked. As I was cleaning it up, I saw the oven-door switch wasn't moving when the door opened and closed. So I pushed it with my finger. And it shorted and and blew the GFCI outlet. Turns out there was a short between it and the oven body. Removed the switch.
But now I notice the clocks don't work any more.
Do you have suggestions other than tearing it all apart and looking for obvious problems? Since it IS 60 years old, should I consider re-wiring it?
Is there a specific type of wire I should use?

Thank you in advance,

 
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11-24-12, 06:28 AM   #2 (permalink)  
Hello Henway and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and the Gas Appliances topic.

In that brand (O&K) and on some models of it, there may be a fuse somewhere within the electrical circuitry or in a fuse holder, etc. You'll need to look around. Usually located under the top lid. Might have to remove the grates, decorative chrome rings around the top burners and look near back side both left and or rear. or on some models, entire top lid can be raised up.

If not located under top lid, might have to look behind stove. Usually but not always behind back upper top portion behind lighted back raised portion, etc. If there is a fuse, you'll just need to likely need to look all around back. Inside a back removable panel. May even get lucky and find a wiring diagram schmatics..........if no one before you removed it.

Be aware, that fuse if found will still have electrical current supplied to it. You'll need to unplug appliance from electrical power outlet before proceeding to check for current if using a volt meter or removing fuse with bare hands, etc.

I may have included some advice about the problem you're describing in the sticky note.
Read The Sticky Advice And Information Note In This Topic: Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information & Manufacturers Web Sites. http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using the reply button keeps or moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically and keeps all communications on this subject in this thread.

Cautionary Reminder Note:
Before attempting any cleaning or repairs, be sure to unplug the appliance from the wall receptacle power source first.


Regards and Good Luck.
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11-24-12, 07:44 AM   #3 (permalink)  
Fantastic, I'll look for it. However, since I am still getting electricity to the stove-top light, I doubt this is it.
Do you have any input on what type of wiring to use if I were to need to re-wire?

 
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11-24-12, 08:43 AM   #4 (permalink)  
Hello: Henway

I am still getting electricity to the stove-top light, I doubt this is it.
Do not get ahead of yourself here...:NO NO NO:...

Just because the light is on does not mean no fuse to protect other voltage sensitive compo nets, etc. Diagnostics is a step by step procedure. If you do locate a fuse, note the voltage it is. May not be the same type as ordinary 120 volt fuse. Some appliances use a very specific appliance type fuse.

Do not get ahead of yourself here...:NO NO NO:...
Since it IS 60 years old, should I consider re-wiring it?
Is there a specific type of wire I should use?
Do not get ahead of yourself here...:NO NO NO:...

Do you have any input on what type of wiring to use if I were to need to re-wire
Diagnostics is a step by step process.

Any and or all parts are available (wire and wiring harnesses if still available for that yr brand and model) at the local appliance parts stores in you town or area. Avoid using any household type wire too. If you must due so, take a sample to local hardware store and obtain the correct type! Very Important aspect also.

Wire is not all the same....:NO NO NO: Therefore wire is not generic wire nor generically all the same wire. Might be and usually is specifically intended for appliances. Have to consider HEAT and HEATED surfaces around and or near the wire(s) and insulated wire types, etc.


Regards and Good Luck.
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It doesn't function until it's OPEN.........

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Gun safety is using BOTH hands!

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Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

 
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11-24-12, 10:33 AM   #5 (permalink)  
Of course, you're correct to not get ahead of myself.
My oven has no fuses. There is only a terminal block distributing electricity which is still operable. And electricity is getting to the clock--I'm showing 120V between the Neutral and the Line (and the Lo-1).

Now comes the fun part of looking inside the clock?Name:  oven clock back.jpg
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11-24-12, 04:52 PM   #6 (permalink)  

I repowered it several times (more than 10) and perhaps the clock had just stopped in a bad position, but it finally worked--without me doing really anything.

The timer on the other side doesn't..... So I'll have fun with that one!

 
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