Kenmore 665.751.32300 RF burner won't light

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Old 12-08-12, 11:35 AM
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Kenmore 665.751.32300 RF burner won't light

Hi, I found out that the above Kenmore gas range oven is manufactured by Whirlpool.

The problem is that the RF burner won't light. I notice that the sparks goes down instead of up like the other three.

Also that the screws that hold the burner head are kind of rusted. How do I remove it if needed?

Thank you in advance.

Hoang
 
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Old 12-08-12, 03:26 PM
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Hello Hoang. Welcome to the Gas Appliances topic.

I am not exactly sure I know what you mean by spark goes down?

Assumption:

Are you saying each burner has a sparker right next to it? If so, try cleaning that sparker with an old tooth brush to remove any debris that might be on the electrode and or the area around it.

The electrode looks like a pointed upward needle point or may look like a dull round metal rod. Either type may be just dirty or the area around it may be dirty. Also, the white ceramic surface area around the electrode may be cracked causing spark to jump down toward ground instead of to burner head.

Visually compare the one that does not spark correctly to insure it is not damaged. Damage meaning tip broken off or bent away from burner. That would cause the spark to jump to ground toward a direction away from burner head.

All else above and/or cleaning fails, that sparker needs to be replaced. The insulation built sparkers ceramic surface around electrode rod is likely cracked. Crack will not be not visible to the eye.

Remove defective sparker. Take it along with brand name, model and serial number to a local appliance parts store and buy an OEM new part. Install it exactly as that old one was removed.

Cautionary Reminder Note:
Before attempting any cleaning or repairs, be sure to unplug the appliance from the wall receptacle power source first.

Read The Sticky Advice And Information Note In This Topic: Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information & Manufacturers Web Sites. http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808

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Old 12-08-12, 03:40 PM
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Thank you. I have ordered the parts and will let you know after i try fixing it.
 
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Old 12-24-12, 08:38 PM
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Merry Christmas.
I had to drill out the rusted screws and so I needed to buy the burner base also. They arrived today but I don't see any thread on the screw holes on the burner base. Is this normal? I am assuming that the new screws will make its own thread. I am just checking.

I will be working on this on the 26th.

Can you let me know if the screws will make its own thread or did I miss some parts?

Thanks and Merry Christmas again.
 
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Old 12-24-12, 08:55 PM
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Normally a screw for your application would be a self tapping screw like in the picture below.
Yours might be a hex head but should have that cut-out in the screw part.
 
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Old 12-24-12, 09:04 PM
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No cut-off on my screws. I bought the OEM and it is a torx screw but no cut-off like in your photo.

Thanks and Merry Christmas.
 
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Old 12-24-12, 10:07 PM
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Merry Christmas to you too

You would think that they would give you the correct screws.
I guess you could always pick up other ones if they wont start their own threads.
 
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Old 12-27-12, 03:51 PM
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Thank you for your help and comments.

After I replaced the sparker, it worked again but not right away. I let it kept sparking while burning and now the RF burner works well.

I had trouble with the rusted screws and had to drill them all out. I was going to replace all the burner base too but only bought one sparker so I left them alone. It was a good thing that there was an extra hole for the screws so i used that one.

This is somewhat like should I replace the whole car axel or just the replace the CV boot.

I had spent about $100 on parts and will return some used parts. A decent range is about $300-$400 dollars. So hopefully no more repairs or we just get a replacement.

Thanks again and Happy New Year.

Hoang
 
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Old 01-02-13, 06:49 PM
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UPDATE.

I thought it was all fixed but...

So I replaced the RF with a new burner, new burner base and new igniter.

When cold (not used for hours), it takes a long time to ignite because there is no sparks. I had to turn it off and then on again so that there will not be a big gas build up. I do see the spark travels down to the wire connector through the gap on the range top. Once in a while the spark will travel up and ignite the gas. If I leave the burner on for a few minutes, then the next time the igniter will cause the spark upward normally.

I don't understand why when cold the igniter send sparks downward to the connector and when hot it works normally by sending sparks upward.

Do you think the new igniter was bad or damaged?

Thank you.
 
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Old 01-02-13, 10:46 PM
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Are you talking about the spark electrode ?

If it's cracked the spark can follow the crack.

The spark will jump at the closest place to ground.
That closest point should be at the burner. If the burner has a ground issue then the spark may travel down the electrode to ground.
Can the spark electrode tip be adjusted closer to the burner making the gap smaller ?
 
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