Gas supply issues with Hotpoint range
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Gas supply issues with Hotpoint range
Hello all, I'm looking for information on getting a relatively new Hotpoint range running correctly for an acquaintance. It's an RGB745BEA model, we installed it the other day and have had some difficulties. The burners spark fine, but frequently fail to ignite the gas. All 4 have ignited at one time or another, but only 2 are able to start with anything approaching reliability. All burners have fairly weak flames, even on high, and flame coverage around the circle fluctuates. Blowing air over a lit burner usually causes severe flame wavering or even individual jets to extinguish or reignite, and individual jets often flare orange at the tips. Slowly turning burners to low occasionally extinguishes the flame, or else reduces number and size of lit jets. Oven appears to start fine, although we haven't attempted use yet.
From reading around the Intertubes it certainly sounds like a gas supply issue. Burner performance doesn't noticeably change with more burners on, or with oven usage. Closing valves to clothes dryer and furnace also didn't change anything. I pulled the lower drawer out to view the lines at the back, and also tried loosening the brass hex cover on the regulator. Even removing the brass cover completely didn't cause a performance change to a single lit burner. Does this point to low enough supply pressure that the regulator isn't even acting? Is a service call from gas company in order? I would expect some fluctuation in burner appearance when changing the regulator settings, is that not the case?
Thanks for any advice you can give, sorry for the long post,
Mark
Supporting details, perhaps not useful: Stove was bought new several years ago, but not used very frequently (single older owner who wintered half the year in Arizona). Looks in nearly new condition, and was replaced during remodeling due to new owner's preference for electric. Installed now in a small, older home that also uses natural gas for clothes dryer and heat. The supply line comes into the basement, has a single ball check valve which moves freely and is in fully open position, then a T in the line, 3 or 4 feet of copper line up through the floor, a shut off valve just behind the range, new flexible line and into the stove with minimal fittings. External gas meter was inspected or installed Jan '08. Dials stop completely with furnace and clothes dryer valves closed and stove off, and usage on quarter cubic foot dial increases reasonably with added functions on stove.
From reading around the Intertubes it certainly sounds like a gas supply issue. Burner performance doesn't noticeably change with more burners on, or with oven usage. Closing valves to clothes dryer and furnace also didn't change anything. I pulled the lower drawer out to view the lines at the back, and also tried loosening the brass hex cover on the regulator. Even removing the brass cover completely didn't cause a performance change to a single lit burner. Does this point to low enough supply pressure that the regulator isn't even acting? Is a service call from gas company in order? I would expect some fluctuation in burner appearance when changing the regulator settings, is that not the case?
Thanks for any advice you can give, sorry for the long post,
Mark
Supporting details, perhaps not useful: Stove was bought new several years ago, but not used very frequently (single older owner who wintered half the year in Arizona). Looks in nearly new condition, and was replaced during remodeling due to new owner's preference for electric. Installed now in a small, older home that also uses natural gas for clothes dryer and heat. The supply line comes into the basement, has a single ball check valve which moves freely and is in fully open position, then a T in the line, 3 or 4 feet of copper line up through the floor, a shut off valve just behind the range, new flexible line and into the stove with minimal fittings. External gas meter was inspected or installed Jan '08. Dials stop completely with furnace and clothes dryer valves closed and stove off, and usage on quarter cubic foot dial increases reasonably with added functions on stove.
#3
Oven appears to start fine.....that's good. How does that flame look ?
Try having a burner on and lighting stove....see what happens.
You may have a defective gas regulator. Pretty rare problem but it does happen.
Calling the gas company would be the best idea to check it out.
Try having a burner on and lighting stove....see what happens.
You may have a defective gas regulator. Pretty rare problem but it does happen.
Calling the gas company would be the best idea to check it out.
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Thanks for chiming in,
lawrosa: Awhile back there was a stove, but since my friend moved in there was just the valve and flexible line in the kitchen.
I would guess the copper line up through the floor is 1/2", fairly close in diameter to the flexible line. Kink free, and looks to be in good shape. The line to the stove is probably 8 feet total from where it enters the basement wall. Probably 12 feet to the dryer, and 20 feet to the boiler.
PJmax: haven't checked the oven flame to be honest, can do that next time I'm over there. Can also try your oven starting permutation. Should unthreading the brass regulator spring cover (with compression extension piece) have a noticeable effect on burner flame fairly quickly?
Leaning towards having the pressure from Centerpoint checked, but would like to have my ducks in a row equipment wise before we do that.
Thanks for the input you two, appreciate it.
lawrosa: Awhile back there was a stove, but since my friend moved in there was just the valve and flexible line in the kitchen.
I would guess the copper line up through the floor is 1/2", fairly close in diameter to the flexible line. Kink free, and looks to be in good shape. The line to the stove is probably 8 feet total from where it enters the basement wall. Probably 12 feet to the dryer, and 20 feet to the boiler.
PJmax: haven't checked the oven flame to be honest, can do that next time I'm over there. Can also try your oven starting permutation. Should unthreading the brass regulator spring cover (with compression extension piece) have a noticeable effect on burner flame fairly quickly?
Leaning towards having the pressure from Centerpoint checked, but would like to have my ducks in a row equipment wise before we do that.
Thanks for the input you two, appreciate it.
#5
I'm not intimately familiar with that gas regulator valve.....but most regulators have a cover that gets removed to get to the actual adjutment screw.
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Hi PJmax,
I didn't see any easy way to adjust this one.
GE WB19K10001 - Pressure Regulator | PartSelect
The brass cover has a small plastic piece on the back side that seats against the retained spring inside the body. The 2 halves of the body are riveted together. Could probably drill out and replace with threaded hardware, but doubtful about availability of replacement internals for a part obviously designed to be less than easy to service.
I didn't see any easy way to adjust this one.
GE WB19K10001 - Pressure Regulator | PartSelect
The brass cover has a small plastic piece on the back side that seats against the retained spring inside the body. The 2 halves of the body are riveted together. Could probably drill out and replace with threaded hardware, but doubtful about availability of replacement internals for a part obviously designed to be less than easy to service.