Gas oven with electronic spark ignition question.

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Old 02-13-13, 02:59 AM
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Gas oven with electronic spark ignition question.

Gas oven with electronic spark ignition question.

Hi,

Twenty five years ago I worked as an appliance repair technician for 7 years . Since that time I’ve moved on to auto mechanics, so I’m looking forward to helping as many people as I can in the auto repair section of this forum.

In any event I have a GE XL44 model JGBS04PEA2WH oven. All 4 of the top burners have lost their electronic ignition. In other words, when the knob for each burner is turned to the “Lite Position” there is no ticking sound.

Here’s the thing though. When I turn on each of the top burner knobs, I can smell gas and hear gas, and if I strike a match to each of the four burners they will light.

Question is why doesn’t the oven (below the burners) light. In other words, we I turn the oven knob on, I don’t smell gas, or hear gas and can’t even light the oven with a match.

I don’t understand that. Can you please tell me why? Logically speaking if I’m able to light all four of the top burners with a match, why can’t I light the oven with a match?

The oven is away from the wall, and within the next day or two I plan to remove the “Spark Module” and test it, but I don’t think the problem is the spark module. I started reading the spec sheet that came with the stove and the “Spark Module” information appears below

Kool Lite Harper-Wyman
Model 6545G1001A
Part number 223C3200P002

Based on the above information can you tell me what you think the problem is, and how to “Test” the spark module.

Thank You
 

Last edited by Shadeladie; 02-15-13 at 11:39 AM. Reason: Fixed format
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Old 02-13-13, 11:39 PM
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Welcome to the forum AF 62.

Try to use the default board editor as your post is very hard to read.

You have four gas valves......one for each burner. On the front of each valve is a switch that gets activated when you turn the gas valve on. The four switches are wired in parallel and send 120vac to the L terminal on the spark board.
The N terminal is neutral.
I believe the other two terminals are labeled 1 and 2 and are the high voltage output terminals.
One spark module powers all four burner ignitors.

To test spark module.....turn on one of the gas valves......you should measure 120vac on the L and N terminals. If you get that......the module is bad.

The top four burners are lightable with a match so that you can use them if the spark module fails or there is a power failure.

Your oven has an AC powered ignitor controlled by the timer/clock logic module. When the oven calls for heat.....the module tells the ignitor to heat up (glow). Approx. 30 seconds later the module tells the gas valve to turn on. If the flame doesn't light in just a few seconds.....the gas valve is turned off and the logic module tries a re-start.

Therefore you can not use the oven without AC power.

The following is a parts listing for your unit. You can navigate around to see different views of your range.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...E2134753/00001
 
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Old 02-14-13, 02:49 PM
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PJmax,

First thing is thank you for your answer and your welcome to the forum. I’m sorry that my post was hard to read, but I’m new to this forum and I haven’t figured out how all the controls yet. Until I figure out the controls, I’ll use a bolder font and hope makes my posts easier to read. BTW, how do I make the font larger?

Yes you are correct. The left side of the spark module has the letters “L and N” and the right side has the numbers “1 and 2. I plan to tackle the stove this weekend, but I just want to be sure of the “Spark Module” testing procedure.

It sounds like what you are saying is that I should leave all the wires connected to the “Spark module”, then put my volt-meter across the “L and N” terminals, then turn on one of the top burner controls. At that point if I get a voltage reading on the meter of 110 volts, it means the “Spark Module”. Is defective?

Is this correct or am I missing something? Again thank you so much and best regards to you.

Amy
 

Last edited by Shadeladie; 02-15-13 at 11:37 AM. Reason: Fixed format
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Old 02-14-13, 07:56 PM
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No need to make it bigger or bold. Are you just coming here and typing your reply in the box or are you using copy and paste ?

Anyway.....no problem.

Yes.....you want to apply 120vac to the module and it should create the spark. By checking for the voltage right at the module you are assured that the switch wiring on the valves is not at fault.
 
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Old 02-15-13, 11:39 AM
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I changed the font to the forum default. Should be easy to read now.
 
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Old 02-15-13, 10:09 PM
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Thank you kind maam.......
 
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Old 02-17-13, 07:31 AM
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PJmax,

Some things came up this weekend and I couldn't get to the stove. I'll deal with it next week and update you. I really appreciate all your help and patience.

Best Wishes
Amy
 

Last edited by Shadeladie; 02-17-13 at 07:58 AM. Reason: Off topic comment removed
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Old 02-17-13, 09:31 AM
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No problem......we'll be hanging around
 
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Old 02-24-13, 05:05 AM
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PJmax,

OK, replaced the "Spark Module" yesterday and that restored the "Ignition" to all 4 top burners.

Thing is it also restored the oven (which I'm glad for).

But how is that possible?

What am I missing here?

Isn't the "Spark Module" ONLY for the "Top Burners"?

Thanks for all you're help.

Best Regards
Amy
 
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Old 02-24-13, 10:18 AM
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I wasn't aware you had an issue with the oven but the spark module only lights the four surface burners.

If the spark module did actually work with the oven.....you would hear it activate every five minutes or so while the oven cycled. Then you would also hear the top ignitors sparking too.

I double checked your unit's internal parts. It does indeed show two electric ignitors for the oven.
 
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Old 02-26-13, 06:33 PM
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PJmax,

Hi and thank you for your last answer. I'm sorry my response is coming late, but I've been busy. I see what you are saying. I understand it and I agree with it as logic goes. With that being said logic appears to go out the window here, but I'm glad (all) the burners and oven (as well) are working. If I ever get to the bottom of this mystery you will be the first to know. In other words, all I did was replace the "Spark Module". NO oven igniters were REPLACED, but again simply replacing the "Spark Module" RESTORED all 4 top burners and the OVEN as well.

Thank You
Amy
 
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Old 02-26-13, 06:38 PM
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See....your magic touch chased away the gremlins. Good job
 
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