Old Caloric built In oven - Mini Explosion with delayed start up

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Old 02-21-13, 10:31 AM
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Old Caloric built In oven - Mini Explosion with delayed start up

I have an older model Caloric built in oven [model Rws214ud]. When the oven is turned on there is a long delay before it fires up. At some point gas is released into the oven prior to ignition because when it finally does ignite, two or three minutes later, there is a mini "explosion". Sometimes there is enough force to move the door slightly!

Should I start by replacing the ignitor? If so, anyone know how to get to it? From the oven and work down, or squeezing into the broiler?


Thanks!
 
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Old 02-22-13, 05:18 AM
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The condition you're describing is known as "Delayed Ignition." Which means the gas is ignited much too late after it begins coming out of the burner. A condition that must be corrected.

To correct the problem, most likely the burner will have to be removed from the oven and cleaned. First, unplug or turn off the the electrical power to the appliance.

The ignition ports on the burner will need to be cleaned. The ports will either be on top of the burner, if the igniter is on top or along the side of the burner tube, if the igniter is side mounted. The ignition ports cross over to both sides of the burner. Cleaning all the ports and the cross over holes or slots is required to allow proper burner ignition.

In some cases, the entire burner tube has to be removed to complete this task, while at other times, working carefully, so as not to bang the glow igniter, the task can be completed successfully.

Additional Info:

The most common reason is restricted and or clogged ignition ports. Ignition ports are the tiny holes or a slot {Ports} where the burner gas exits the burner tube, closest to the igniter.

Next most common reason is the burner does not light completely around both side of the burner. Basically the same reason as above. These ports are called "cross-over" ports.

Ignition ports, {holes and or a slot} which allow the gas to cross over to the opposite side of the burner are clogged, blocked and or restricted.

An old tooth brush or similar like tool will clear the obstructions. In some cases, the entire burner tube has to be removed to complete this task, while at other times, working carefully, so as not to bang the glow bar, the task can be completed successfully.

In your specific case, the burner most likely has a cross-over slot. The slot expands slightly once warm since the aluminum expands. In doing so, it becomes self restricting. A possible cure is to use a thin hacksaw blade and clear the slot but not enlarge it or replace the burner.

Read the STICKY note regarding the condition of delayed ignition >HERE<

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using the reply button keeps or moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically and keeps all communications on this subject in this thread.
 
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Old 02-22-13, 08:51 AM
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Appreciate the info. Some more info on my part..... The burner lights up all the way around instantaneously (once it decides to). I also noticed my ignitor only ever reaches an orange glow. From what I have read, should this be white hot?
 
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Old 02-22-13, 09:18 AM
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Caloric.....pretty old unit there. Parts starting to get scarce.

Yes.....the ignitor should be pretty hot. Some get to white hot and some get to a bright orange. A link for testing and info.
Caloric Oven Ignitors

I have several gas appliances in my home that use these glow type ignitors. As there really isn't any way in knowing when they'll fail.....I have a spare of each one.

I tracked down a replacement ignitor that should be the same as the one you have. The old part number is 0063784. See if it looks the same.
Oven Igniter 786324 Order now for same day shipping. 365 day return policy. RepairClinic.com

It also very important, like Sharp Advice mentioned, that the holes in the burner nearest to the ignitor are clean. The gas MUST light at that point first and then travel around the burner.
 
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Old 02-22-13, 01:11 PM
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Any tricks on replacing the ignitor on a built in oven? I'm hoping when I unbolt the old one, there will be enough slack behind the unit to unplug it.
 
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Old 02-25-13, 09:37 PM
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Normally the ignitor would have a plug on it..... however I have seen some of the older ones to just have two wires with no plug. In a case like that the wires would be just twisted together and you would use a pair of ceramic wire nuts.
 
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Old 02-27-13, 08:42 PM
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So pull up slack, make connections and then tuck back behind the oven?
 
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Old 02-27-13, 09:54 PM
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Basically....yes. Hopefully the hole in the oven is large enough to pull the splice/connector in or oven may have to be removed from the wall.

Also very important to use ceramic wire nuts. Regular ones will just melt.
 
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Old 02-28-13, 08:28 PM
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God i hope i don't have to pull the unit out. Ceramic wire nuts... wouldn't the wire insulation melt then as well?
 
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Old 02-28-13, 09:26 PM
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No....the insulation is a high heat composition. Possibly a teflon product.
Standard wire nuts are plastic.
 
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Old 07-03-14, 10:10 AM
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replace igniter

I finally got around to getting the replacement igniter, but I can't figure out how to remove the old one! There is no play. It seems like it cannot be pulled out.
 
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Old 07-03-14, 11:32 AM
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tried pulling the oven out of the wall. Barely enough slack in the gas line to work on it. Could not disconnect the gas line at the oven. Ugh
 
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Old 07-03-14, 11:44 AM
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I feel your pain. They had to get that oven in so it has to come out.

Maybe you can disconnect the line at the valve..... after turning valve off ?
 
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