Magic Chef gas range igniter misfiring


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Old 04-08-13, 10:34 PM
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Magic Chef gas range igniter misfiring

I have a Magic Chef gas range model CGR3760ADW, which came with the house I bought 10 years ago. Out of the 4 burners, 3 ignite normally. The right rear burner igniter produces a weak spark and is unable to light a flame. The normal igniters produce a strong spark that starts at the electrode, (an L shaped object protruding out of the burner) and terminates at the base of the burner. The misfiring igniter produces a weak spark which only sometimes starts at the tip of the electrode and terminates at the base. Most of the time the weak spark takes a shorter path from a different point of the electrode and terminates to a point very close, and is therefore unable to light a normal flame. I have been lighting it manually with a BBQ lighter. How can I fix this?
 
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Old 04-08-13, 10:56 PM
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I moved your post from the Electric appliance forum to the gas appliance forum.


The burner/spark assembly is a replaceable part. If you only have an issue with the one burner then this part should take care of your problem.

In the link below..... the part you are looking at is # 10. The actual FSP # 74004053 You can google that FSP part number to find a place to purchase the part from. You can also order from the link below except I believe the price listed is incorrect.

Sears parts direct-Magic-Chef-Range-Parts
 
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Old 04-11-13, 05:01 PM
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Hi PJmax,
Thanks for moving the post to the correct place. I called Magic Chef to ask them if they had the part. They asked me for the serial number in addition to the model number. They told me that the burner and the igniter are a composite unit for this serial number and runs about $60. Now I'm confused. I think I'll try taking it apart to determine whether it is composite or not. I'll also try to clean the electrode with a spark plug cleaner to see if that makes a difference. I'll also interchange the front and the rear parts on a temporary basis to isolate the component.
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Old 04-11-13, 09:01 PM
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I couldn't find a listing for a composite unit for your model. Yours might be a late unit in the production run and they switched part suppliers.

You have nothing to lose in trying to clean it. Let me know how that goes.
 
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Old 05-05-13, 09:53 AM
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I finally tried the experiments I was proposing. The defective back burner when moved to the front and the electrode cleaned continued to not ignite. The good front burner when moved to the back continued to ignite. I noticed that there were 2 screws holding the igniter to the burner. I was able to remove the igniter unit and noticed that part of the insulator had broken off. This was causing a spark to start upstream from the electrode tip (and not the tip itself) to the nearest ground inside the burner, not in the path of the gas flow, hence is the reason for the igniter not working. PJMax, thanks for the idea of googling the part number. Sears sells it at over $35, but Amazon has it for about the half the price with no shipping charge. I've just placed the order and will make the replacement when the part arrives.
 
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Old 05-20-13, 07:04 PM
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Issue with new igniter

The igniter came in and had an issue. I ordered from another source and I ran into the same issue. Let me explain further via the attached pics. I took them from various angles with the old igniter always on the left and the new one on the right. At first blush they look identical, but they are not. Each one has a flange with two holes. Screws pass through these holes to mount the igniter to the burner unit. Also there is a ring which protrudes out from the flange (and is part of the flange) and circles around the insulator and is crimped on to it so that the two parts are affixed to each other. What is different between the old and new is the orientation of this ring with respect to the insulator. In the original old igniter, the ring faces the ground terminal, whereas in the new one, the ring faces the electrode. In order to install the igniter, one is required to feed the electrode through a hole in the burner and shimmy it into position such that the flange butts against the burner unit and the screws can be attached. In the new unit, the ring orientation prevents the igniter being fed all the way inside, with the result that the flange is unable to butt against the burner. I don't know if it will help to order the igniter from a third source. What solution do you all suggest?

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Old 05-20-13, 08:39 PM
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I see your problem. I checked every parts company and even ebay for used ignitors and they are all the same as the new one you have.

At this point your only option may be to enlarge the hole enough to allow the flange to fit.
 
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Old 06-01-13, 01:43 PM
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PJmax, I took your suggestion. I drilled a slightly bigger hole. This time the igniter went through and I screwed it into place. After making the electrical connections, I tried it. It lighted the first time. I tried it again several times and the flame lit each time. The only thing different is that it lights slow compared to the other burners. I'll take it. Thank you PJmax for your suggestion.
 
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Old 06-01-13, 07:36 PM
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Sometimes you have to get creative.

Good job
 
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Old 07-14-13, 12:01 PM
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Not working any more

After installation the new right rear igniter worked for a while, then stopped working. I don't see a spark at all. Also the left rear igniter stopped working. I can't say it happened at the same time. I don't see anything obviously wrong. What should be my next step?
 
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Old 07-14-13, 05:45 PM
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You may have a defective spark module. You can try moving the wires on the spark unit. There are four output lines to the ignitors.

Sears Parts Direct/Magic-chef/Model-CGR3760ADW - spark module
 
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Old 07-20-13, 09:11 PM
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Hi PJMax,

Thanks for the hint. I lifted the cover, and saw 4 red/orange wires that attach to the 4 electrodes. The other ends of the wires go through a slot on the side, and their termination points are not visible to me. Therefore, I have been unable to look at the spark module.

First of all, let me say that ever since I bought the house 10 years ago, I observed that turning on any igniter causes a spark at all 4 electrodes even though only the desired one lights up. I thought this was odd because there was no reason to generate 4 sparks when only one burner is to be lit. Of course, lately the spark has been inconsistent, see details below.

Here is the experimentation I tried. Firstly, I swapped the rear and front burners. Then I tried turning on each burner several times, in rotation, while observing the sparking action on all burners. Here is are my observations.

When I turn on the left front burner, I see sparking at all 4 burners, and the correct burner lights up.

When I turn on the left rear burner, I definitely see a spark at the front 2 burners, but a few times I don't see spark at the rear 2 burners. When I do see a spark at all, it is present at both the rear burners, and the left rear burner lights up.

When I turn on the right front burner, I see a spark at the front 2 burners, but most of the times there is no spark at the rear 2 burners. Regardless, the right front burner lights up.

When I turn on the right rear burner, I definitely see a spark at the front 2 burners, but most of the times I don't see spark at the rear 2 burners. When I do see a spark at all, it is present at both the rear burners, and the right rear burner lights up. The right rear is much worse than left rear.

The conclusion I'm reaching is that the burners themselves, including the electrodes are fine, because swapping the burners front/back has not caused a change in their behavior. The issue is intermittent spark production at the rear burners.

How can I access the spark module? After I've accessed it, what tests/diagnostics can I perform to verify that indeed the spark module is defective?

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Old 07-20-13, 09:37 PM
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You can move the four wires on the spark module itself.

As far as where it is...... it's in the rear behind the service panel on the right side as viewed from the rear.

In the link below is a video showing where it is and how to replace the spark module.

Spark Module Kit and Video - Appliance Parts Pros
 
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Old 07-20-13, 10:13 PM
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Hi PJmax, thanks for the quick response. I watched the video. The replacement seems to be easy enough. I have one question. In order to access the back panel, is it safe to slide out the range without causing damage to the gas supply line? There are cabinets sitting to either side of the range, so I can't peek behind. The gas supply line, the shut off valve and the electrical socket for the range are not visible to me.

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Old 07-20-13, 10:18 PM
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The gas line should be set up so that you can pull the stove out enough to turn off the gas.

Gently slide it out far enough to see behind it and go from there. If you don't see a gas shutoff valve behind the unit then it may be in the basement below.
 
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Old 07-21-13, 01:40 PM
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Searching for spark module

Hi PJmax,

I did what you suggested. I slid out the range slowly and took a peek. I need not have worried. There was a long flexible gas supply tubing with a shutoff. Also the range was plugged in to a socket on the wall towards the bottom. I removed the plug in order to proceed.

I also watched the spark module replacement video for which you had provided the link. My model is different but that never stops from proceeding. I removed the top panel and the large bottom panel. However, I could not see the spark module. See attached pics.

The first pic shows the view when the range cover is lifted. It shows the 4 orange wires go through the slot on the right side (when viewed from the front), which makes me think the spark module is hidden somewhere on the right hand side of the range. The 2nd pic shows the top panel removed. You can see it in the pic because I rested it on the top of the range control/display panel. It also shows a circuit board on the left hand side (when viewing the back of the range). The 3rd pic shows the bottom part of the range when viewed from the rear, with the bottom panel removed. I don't see a spark module. What should be my next step?

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Old 07-21-13, 02:14 PM
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You need to follow the orange wires as they go to the module.
Is there a drawer at the bottom ? Possibly in there.
 
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Old 07-21-13, 06:19 PM
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PJmax, yes there's a drawer in the bottom but it is meant for storage of bakeware etc. I will try to trace the wires once I get a chunk of free time.

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Old 07-28-13, 05:54 PM
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I ordered a service manual from allrepairmanuals.com. Indeed the spark module is located on the side. Unfortunately, it is not so straightforward. It requires the top to be removed and then the side, and there has to be plenty of work room. In the meantime I put back back panels that are not involved in the repair. All of this takes a lot of patience. I had to repeatedly climb on the kitchen counter to get access to the back of the range. At times I was hanging upside down to unscrew and screw. There were countless times I dropped screws on the floor and had to retrieve them via a magnetic reach tool. I should invest in a set of magnetic screwdrivers. I also found candy wrappers that my son had thrown in the back over the years. I will now resume next weekend.

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Old 08-03-13, 08:36 PM
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Access to spark module

I spent a lot of time on the range today. As I was lifting the top off, a splinter got stuck in my pointer finger. I got a pair of tweezers out but the end kept breaking. So I tried a needle. I did pierce the outer skin but I can't say the splinter is out yet. I hope it is. I lost more than an hour. I think it may have been some random bits of fiberglass insulation material.

I was determined to keep going. I discovered that the magnetic screwdriver set I bought from Sears was not really magnetic.
Craftsman Ratcheting Magnetic Screwdriver with Bit Storage - Tools - Hand Tools - Screwdrivers

However, I finally got the side panel removed and I was able to see the spark module. I am attaching a couple of pictures. I did go to various sites including the ones cited above. The issue I'm running into now is that their pics don't quite match my particular spark module. I'm thinking I may just have to send them my pics and ask if it is the same thing.

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Old 08-04-13, 01:16 PM
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In the link I left for parts above the module looks almost identical. It's not going to be 100% identical as part suppliers are always changing. If you notice when you purchase appliance parts there is always a substitution number.
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Old 08-17-13, 02:56 PM
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Hi PJMax,
I eventually ordered the part from Pandora via Amazon for around $20. It does look like what you've shown, almost like the model of an old fashioned coal fired railway engine. After cooking all the meals for the day, I went to work. Replacement was easier than I thought. All the leads went in their proper places without any modification. I did have to drill a hole to screw the module into the existing bracket. I checked if all the burners were now sparking, and they were. I tried putting in the side panel. Then I discovered all the screws were not in. I had to go through the procedure 3 times before the side panel got positioned and fastened correctly. I also put the back panel back. When all was said and done, I was left with 2 extra screws. I couldn't figure out where they went. I'm not worrying about it now. I'm worrying about a bill I have to pay. I had to go to the doc to get the splinter removed because it kept breaking off when I tried removing it. It was lodged very deep and the doc was able to get it out. However, just that one splinter cost me $85 for the doc visit. The good news is that now all 4 burners are working. Thanks for your suggestions.

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Old 08-18-13, 10:34 AM
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Good job Thanks for the update.

It wouldn't be a DIY'er job if there wasn't at least one screw leftover.
 
 

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