Gas oven turns on but doesn't heat up


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Old 04-02-14, 02:20 PM
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Gas oven turns on but doesn't heat up

Hi, I've read the sticky post but as I am a beginner, the post didn't make much sense. I'm a visual learner as well. :/

I have an old (at least 25yrs old) gas stove. It's a Hotpoint but i don't know the model number.

About 2 weeks ago, we noticed that it wasn't reaching the temperature we set it to. So, we've been keeping our food in for longer. We also noticed that it smells like gas when it's on. Last week, I noticed that it sounds different when turned on. It now makes this big WHHHOMP sound when it lights up. It sounds like a mini explosion went off in the oven. It didn't used to sound like that.

I read that I should look in the broiler drawer so I did just that. I turned on the oven and saw what I am guessing is the ignitor, turn red. Then it turned orange and finally flames appeared. I attached a picture of what I saw. I only watched for a minute after the flames appeared so I'm not sure if anything changed.
FYI:The top burners on the range work fine. And there is no gas smell. Nor is there a smell when everything is off.

As someone who has no experience in oven repair, I think to myself, well there is light and flames so it doesn't appear that anything is broken. If I'm wrong please explain. I also ask that, if possible, please use pictures and/or videos in your explanation of what I should do.

Bonus question:
Is there only one type of oven ignitor?
 
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Old 04-02-14, 08:01 PM
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25 year old Hotpoint

You won't see an appliance last that long again.

With the age of your oven.... it's time for a new igniter. The igniter is in series with the gas valve and when it gets to the almost white hot point.... the gas valve opens quickly and you get normal ignition.

Your igniter is not getting hot enough to open the valve fully and ignite the gas quick enough.

You can remove it and take it to your local appliance parts retailer or leave me the model number and I get you some online supply locations and the part number. Be sure to unplug range before touching the igniter.



Bonus answer: There are two types of igniters. There is the Norton style which is usually flat and the carborundum style which is usually round. They are NOT interchangeable. Your oven was designed to only use the one type.
 
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Old 04-02-14, 08:25 PM
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Thanks for your reply, PJmax. I hadn't thought about it like that before. I'm blessed to have an oven that's been problem free for such a long time. It may not look modern but it works. Planned obsolescence is horrible.

I'm guessing I'm going to have to remove the bottom of oven to get to the ignitor? Is that correct? Is it necessary to also turn off the gas? I know where to unplug the oven but I'm not sure about how to turn off the gas.

You made me think about something: modern appliances don't last as long but when just focusing on ovens, what do the manufactures do so they can break down sooner. That question might be too loaded. I guess my question is: what is the main reason (part) modern ovens go kaput? It can't be the ignitor, right, because it can be replaced?
 
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Old 04-03-14, 10:26 AM
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Have you checked the crossover ignition slot on the bottom of the burner? It is common to have the slot plugged and once cleaned ignition returns to normal.
 
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Old 04-03-14, 10:57 AM
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Hi mbk3, what does that look like? Is it under every burner?
edit to add: image search on google just shows a bunch of car stuff :/
 
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Old 04-03-14, 11:40 AM
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If you have a pull out drawer...... the model number will be in the upper left corner. If not it's most likely under the top burner plate.

If you look at your burner you'll see a row of holes going down each side. There is usually a single slot under the burner connecting the two rows. The slot or holes under the burner will be right near the igniter. You may have to pull the burner out to check it.
 
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Old 04-03-14, 01:33 PM
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I took the bottom black plate off. What do you call that? Attached is what is it looks like with that off.

You can see that there is purplish dust on that other thing. Oh my, I don't know any of the names.

Um, which is the burner? You don't mean the burners on the stove?
 
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Old 04-03-14, 03:19 PM
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Take that wing nut off and the plate will lift off. You will see the burner.
 
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Old 04-03-14, 03:33 PM
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More visuals. Can someone tell me what you call A, B, and C ? Also, where is the crossover ignition slot in this image?

Name:  under oven.jpg
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Last edited by PJmax; 04-03-14 at 06:00 PM. Reason: updated picture
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Old 04-03-14, 03:43 PM
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Just to double check: the igniter is the object labeled D . Right?
 

Last edited by [kiddo]; 04-03-14 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 04-03-14, 06:06 PM
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A = burner or burner tube
B = Venturi tube..... where the gas and air mix
C = valve
D = igniter

In the pic below you'll see I highlighted the left and right burner holes. There is a place where they connect. It isn't in the pic. It's probably where I have the green lines but on the bottom.... under the burner tube.


Name:  burnl.jpg
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Old 04-03-14, 06:45 PM
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Thanks for labeling those, PJmax. But Gosh, I still don't see the slot. Please take a look at my new attachment. The plate (E) doesn't come off so I can't look under that.

EDIT: Forgot to add attachment
 
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Old 04-03-14, 07:15 PM
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OK......so how does the side near the igniter light the other side ? That's tonight's homework.

You can plug the power back in and watch the operation. Leave the oven door open.
 
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Old 04-03-14, 08:38 PM
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(^Click through for video) It happens so quickly. I still don't know where the slot is.
Here's an even lower angle.


I need a visual of what that slot looks like. Can someone please link me to one?
 
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Old 04-04-14, 09:57 AM
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Just finished installing a new igniter on my Kenmore. It had flame but very low. I looked for a split on my burner tub and there isn't one. My oven now preheats in less that 10 minutes, Was almost an hour before. I found one on amazon. Are 2 types flat or round, mine had the flat and the one I used was a GE. Looks like the are all the same. A little over 20 bucks, two day delivery. Had to cut the wires and use the provided wire nuts. Let us know how it goes.
 
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Old 04-04-14, 10:53 AM
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I've been looking for the "crossover ignition slot" so I could see if I could just clean it and have my problem be resolved. I should just forget about the slot and take out the igniter now huh? All i do is unscrew it from the oven? Is that metal box part of the igniter or is it just the casing?

Thank you, by the way, for everyone's help so far
 
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Old 04-04-14, 01:08 PM
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The metal housing with the slots are part of the igniter.
 
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Old 04-04-14, 05:21 PM
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Update: The igniter's cord is attached in the back of the oven somewhere. I need to get access to the back of the oven then. It's going to need to be pulled away from the wall. I can't move it on my own. I'm going to have to get some help. :/
I'll update later.
 
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Old 04-04-14, 06:26 PM
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Your burner lights quickly and evenly. You don't have a crossover issue there. It's good that you are going to replace the igniter.

The igniter should have a plug on it that may fit thru the hole and come into the oven. If you look at the hole thru the back and it looks much bigger than the wire.... try wiggling and pulling the plug in.
 
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Old 04-05-14, 07:24 AM
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My wires went below the oven in the warming drawer. No need for me to go through the back. Yours may be different.
 
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Old 04-06-14, 07:16 PM
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Pumas, he mentioned in his first post he would hear an explosion. Look at the bottom of the burner in the rear portion close to the igniter. You should see the slot there and it will likely have a white powder in it. Man I hope I'm right about this burner. I just looked at the pics again and it appears the pic labeled right may have holes and not a slot, kinda hard to tell, anyway take a peek at your burner again.
 
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Old 04-06-14, 07:33 PM
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You're right.... in the picture labeled right..... there are holes used as the crossover. I've marked them below. They're hard to see clearly but may need to be cleaned out.

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