Glow Coil
#1
03-08-01, 09:36 PM
Hi Tom,
Okay, I found out what you meant about "glow coil." When I said igniter, I was going by my wiring diagram which refers to it as an "igniter?!" Anyway, the coil is not glowing when the settings idicate that the oven should be on. I removed the coil and put a meter on the two leads. I am not getting any reading to suggest continuity through the coil, but I'm not sure whether there should be zero resistance or what a good coil should read.
Does this help?
Thanks for responding so soon with my first question. This is an excellent site!
Thanks,
Jim
Okay, I found out what you meant about "glow coil." When I said igniter, I was going by my wiring diagram which refers to it as an "igniter?!" Anyway, the coil is not glowing when the settings idicate that the oven should be on. I removed the coil and put a meter on the two leads. I am not getting any reading to suggest continuity through the coil, but I'm not sure whether there should be zero resistance or what a good coil should read.
Does this help?
Thanks for responding so soon with my first question. This is an excellent site!
Thanks,
Jim
#2
03-08-01, 10:39 PM
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Join Date: Feb 1998
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Hi: Jim
First off, Welcome to the web site.
Second, use the reply button to continue this topic.
Doing so will make it much easier for the thousands of other people whom also read these posting to follow along and learn from our discussion.
Third, thanks for your update. The new info helps me out.
Fourth, thanks for the kind words about this site. They are very much appreciated.
What you'll need to do is test for electric current from the leads that the coil plugs into while the oven is in the on position. If you get a reading, it will be full house voltage {120 volts} so be cautious of an electic shock.
If there is current there , the coil is dead. Replace it and all should be well.
If there isn't current there, check the fuse. Be aware, as I mentioned in the "Glow Coils and Gas Valves" topic, this is not a standard fuse. It is a special fuse for appliances with glow coils {5 volts} and should only be purchased at an appliance retail parts store.
Any electrical part in doubt of it's condition can be removed and taken to the appliance store for testing. This should answer all questions posted on the parts topic.
To post exact resistance value readings, etc. on my part would not serve others reading this very well, if they didn't have the skills and testing devices.
Hope this helps you.
Regards,
Tom
First off, Welcome to the web site.
Second, use the reply button to continue this topic.
Doing so will make it much easier for the thousands of other people whom also read these posting to follow along and learn from our discussion.
Third, thanks for your update. The new info helps me out.
Fourth, thanks for the kind words about this site. They are very much appreciated.
What you'll need to do is test for electric current from the leads that the coil plugs into while the oven is in the on position. If you get a reading, it will be full house voltage {120 volts} so be cautious of an electic shock.
If there is current there , the coil is dead. Replace it and all should be well.
If there isn't current there, check the fuse. Be aware, as I mentioned in the "Glow Coils and Gas Valves" topic, this is not a standard fuse. It is a special fuse for appliances with glow coils {5 volts} and should only be purchased at an appliance retail parts store.
Any electrical part in doubt of it's condition can be removed and taken to the appliance store for testing. This should answer all questions posted on the parts topic.
To post exact resistance value readings, etc. on my part would not serve others reading this very well, if they didn't have the skills and testing devices.
Hope this helps you.
Regards,
Tom
