Maytag DG7600 Gas Dryer Does Not Heat
#1
07-23-14, 09:07 AM
Maytag DG7600 Gas Dryer Does Not Heat
First-time poster. Thank you for this forum. 
A search let me to DryerMike's 2007 post which had no responses, but I was unable to bump it up because it is too old.
This is my exact problem - except that my igniter does not glow constantly. Instead, it glows for 13 seconds then goes out for 45 seconds and then repeats the 58 second cycle.
Although the gas valve coils tested in range, I replaced them anyway due to the age of the dryer. Drying the initial load of laundry was a success. The flame was blue and strong, and the clothes dried more quickly than I expected, so I turned off the dryer before the end of the cycle.
One day later, only the igniter glows and the flame does not light.
What I know:
1. The igniter tests at 85.7 ohms (within 50 to 400 ohm range)
2. I hear a click as the igniter goes out
3. Radiant Sensor shows 0 ohms
4. Coils show proper resistance, according to instructions in original post
5. High Temp Switch shows 0 ohms (I assume this is the Thermal Fuse)
6. I *may* notice an intermitted buzz/hum in the area of the gas valve when the igniter is lit
I am confused about why it worked yesterday and not today.
Like DryerMike, I'm not sure what to do next.
I wonder if he scrapped his dryer. There are still some of these trusty machines around seven years later. I hope somebody here might be familiar with this Maytag "Dependable Care" generation or similar relics of that ilk.
A search let me to DryerMike's 2007 post which had no responses, but I was unable to bump it up because it is too old.
What I know:
1.Drum spins
2.Igniter glows constantly on
3.Radiant Sensor shows 0 ohms
4.Coils on Gas value show proper resistance (as per below)
5.High Temp Switch shows 0 ohms
Not sure what to do next.
Can anyone advise. It's old ... time to get a new one?
Testing the Coils:
If you look closely at the coils, one has three terminals on it and we will test this one first. With the coil out of the dryer and the terminals on top facing you, the first terminal on the left is number one, the middle is two and the right side terminal is number 3. Using your ohm meter, measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 2. You should get a reading of 1365 ohms or - 25 ohms. Next, measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 3. You should get a reading of 560 ohms or - 25 ohms. The next coil only has two terminals and it should have a resistance of 1220 ohms or - 50 ohms. Keep in mind when testing these coils, they should be tested at room temperature. If you have run the dryer and they are warm or hot, the resistance reading will be different.
1.Drum spins
2.Igniter glows constantly on
3.Radiant Sensor shows 0 ohms
4.Coils on Gas value show proper resistance (as per below)
5.High Temp Switch shows 0 ohms
Not sure what to do next.
Can anyone advise. It's old ... time to get a new one?
Testing the Coils:
If you look closely at the coils, one has three terminals on it and we will test this one first. With the coil out of the dryer and the terminals on top facing you, the first terminal on the left is number one, the middle is two and the right side terminal is number 3. Using your ohm meter, measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 2. You should get a reading of 1365 ohms or - 25 ohms. Next, measure the resistance between terminals 1 and 3. You should get a reading of 560 ohms or - 25 ohms. The next coil only has two terminals and it should have a resistance of 1220 ohms or - 50 ohms. Keep in mind when testing these coils, they should be tested at room temperature. If you have run the dryer and they are warm or hot, the resistance reading will be different.
Although the gas valve coils tested in range, I replaced them anyway due to the age of the dryer. Drying the initial load of laundry was a success. The flame was blue and strong, and the clothes dried more quickly than I expected, so I turned off the dryer before the end of the cycle.
One day later, only the igniter glows and the flame does not light.
What I know:
1. The igniter tests at 85.7 ohms (within 50 to 400 ohm range)
2. I hear a click as the igniter goes out
3. Radiant Sensor shows 0 ohms
4. Coils show proper resistance, according to instructions in original post
5. High Temp Switch shows 0 ohms (I assume this is the Thermal Fuse)
6. I *may* notice an intermitted buzz/hum in the area of the gas valve when the igniter is lit
I am confused about why it worked yesterday and not today.
Like DryerMike, I'm not sure what to do next.
I wonder if he scrapped his dryer. There are still some of these trusty machines around seven years later. I hope somebody here might be familiar with this Maytag "Dependable Care" generation or similar relics of that ilk.
#2
07-23-14, 10:38 PM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
You may very well have an intermittent connector at the gas valves. As long as the igniter is coming on..... everything else in the dryer is ok.... thermostat, heat sensor, thermal fuse.
Try wiggling or holding the plugs together when the igniter is on and just before it would shut off.
You may very well have an intermittent connector at the gas valves. As long as the igniter is coming on..... everything else in the dryer is ok.... thermostat, heat sensor, thermal fuse.
Try wiggling or holding the plugs together when the igniter is on and just before it would shut off.
#3
07-24-14, 11:44 AM
I made about 20 attempts of wiggling or holding the plugs together when the igniter is lit, but still no flame.
I also disconnected the vent today, but that didn't help either.
For about six months before the dryer stopped heating, it made loud rumbling noises. The noise stopped for a while, and soon afterwards, the dryer didn't heat. I replaced the rounded-out blower wheel, which was difficult to remove and put back on. I could not remove the retaining ring with my pliers, so it may have been slightly stretched when it went back on - would that matter?
The gas valve seems to be releasing gas because I can smell it. How does that gas get pushed up to the igniter to make the flame? Yesterday, I blew a big long breath onto the igniter and I was able to make a small flame for a few seconds (not for the faint of heart).
I appreciate your assistance because I have never seen the inside of a dryer before, and I have only limited appliance DIY experience.
I also disconnected the vent today, but that didn't help either.
For about six months before the dryer stopped heating, it made loud rumbling noises. The noise stopped for a while, and soon afterwards, the dryer didn't heat. I replaced the rounded-out blower wheel, which was difficult to remove and put back on. I could not remove the retaining ring with my pliers, so it may have been slightly stretched when it went back on - would that matter?
The gas valve seems to be releasing gas because I can smell it. How does that gas get pushed up to the igniter to make the flame? Yesterday, I blew a big long breath onto the igniter and I was able to make a small flame for a few seconds (not for the faint of heart).
I appreciate your assistance because I have never seen the inside of a dryer before, and I have only limited appliance DIY experience.
