my daughters oven wont heat. she has had the stove for about a year and a half and the oven quit. it wont heat unless you turn on the burners. usually one or two burners on and the oven will light. oven hot surface igniter right?

 

Welcome to the forums.

A defective igniter is a common problem but it should not be connected to the top burners.
I would remove the bottom metal plate inside the oven and observe the igniter with the burners on and off to see if there is a change.

Propane or natural gas ?

 

Naturla gas. im waiting on a new ignitor to come in. once i get it installed and tested, ill update with the results.

 

okay, i got the new igniter and installed it. no change. you turn on the oven and the igniter glows orange and you hear the gas valve open and you smell gas, but it wont light. if you put a lit match to it, it lights and the oven will heat up. but once it cycles off and starts to cool, when it tries to relight, same thing, gas valve opens ignitor glows, but it dont light. could it be there is not enough power going through the ignitor to light the gas? what controls that?

 

The ignitor should glow bright orange to almost white hot. The ignitor is in series with the gas valve. It's a very basic setup.

Does the oven eventually light with a bang ?
There are holes in the burner that direct gas towards the ignitor for ignition. If they are blocked the burner won't light properly.

The only true way to check your ignitor/valve system for proper operation is to check the circuit current draw. This is best accomplished with a clamp on amprobe. The circuit current should be from 3.2 to 3.6 amps.

 

i dont think its the ignitor itself because the new one glows exactly as the old one does. i dont have a clamp on amp meter to test current draw. no the oven does not light at all. it just sits there glowing. so is there anything that could cause the ignitor to get less power than it should have and not let it get hot enough to light the gas? what could cause a lower current draw?

 

okay, i worked on the stove again last night. i pulled the burner tube and cleaned all the holes. there was nothing blocked. i pulld the orfice off the safety valve. clean. i pulled the gas tube that connects the safety valve to the main gas valve, clean. i moved the ignitor over to the burner so its up close to the gas path. still exact same problem. turn on the oven and the ignitor glows, then you hear a click and hear the gas start hissing in. no fire. light it with a match and burns great until it cycles off and then again it wont relight. does the same thing on broil. possible safety valve??? i just dont know.

 

Yes.... it could be the safety valve. An amprobe would be the only way to confirm the problem without replacing the valve.

Maybe it's time to treat yourself.
Commercial Electric Multimeter / Digital Clamp Meter-MS2002 at The Depot

 

is there any thing else it could be? main gas valve is sending gas to safety valve. gas lines are clear. ignitor is new and matches the indications of the original. oven and broiler both use the same burner and valve and both act the same. surface burners work fine. temp sensor is working properly when you manualy light the oven. it just wont light off of the ignitor. is there anything im missing in the circuit anywhere?

 

im still trying to figure this one out. another forum suggested low input voltage, but it shows 120 volts. it still just seams like the ignitor isnt getting hot enough to light the gas. any ideas?

 

Sorry.... like I mentioned previously.... without an amperage tester there is nothing else you can do.

There is the igniter and the gas valve in series..... that's it.

 

il look for a meter. what reading am i looking for? what ampherage does the valve require to open? and what ampherage does the ignitor require to make enough heat to light the gas?

 

It is a series circuit... the current is the same anywhere in the circuit. When the circuit is first powered the current will be low. As the ignitor heats up the circuit needs to approach at least 3.2A for the gas valve to open.

 

then it must be reaching 3.2 because the valve is openning, the ignitor just isnt hot enough to light the gas.