Missing range gas shutoff valve

I have tile guys coming in the morning and I thought it'd be as simple as pulling out my old gas oven (70s/80s-maybe) and closing a shut-off valve, but I don't see an obvious cut-off anywhere and I've followed the line out past the water heater and furnace, all the way to where it goes out the basement wall to the meter? Am I missing something? Any thoughts? Right now, I'm thinking that after the morning showers I'm going to have to cut-off the whole house, then drain from the stove-end and add a cut-off valve, but if I'm missing something and there's something easier to do...

It's an old greenish-gold Whirlpool sf385pee2, if that means anything.


Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

You're not missing anything. There should be a valve directly behind the range or in the vicinity.
Is the range connected to pipe with flex line?

Can't be of much help now. If no valve:
- shut off house gas
- cap off pipe behind range, use appropriate cap and pipe dope
- install a valve after floor is finished

Be careful to relight any pilot lights

I can't speak for others, but I work on many homes and like to help. Hopefully the tiles guys have seen this in your area and will be willing to give further advice and work around the situation.

 

Thanks for the quick reply.

Copper tubing goes from the stove down through the floor, all the way to the black iron pipe, a run of probably eight feet. The furnace and hot water heater both have their own cut-offs, but there's not one behind the stove or on the main line. Compounding the situation, I'm replacing the stove, so the one that's there will definitely have to come out. I kinda hate that I told the fellow we were good to go and didn't ask for one more day to get prepared, but between this and the piping forum, along with a dawn trip to the blue box, by the time he gets here with his knowledge, hopefully it'll be sorted out.

Again, thanks.

 

Ultimately it would be a good idea to bring black iron pipe thru the floor to a shutoff valve and then connect the range with an appropriate flex gas line.

 

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...rt-images.html

See link above - how to insert images

Try to post a picture of where tube enters main gas line. The fitting where tube enters gas line should be a tee. I would guess you need a 1/2" plug (with dope applied), but that is only a guess.

You can get plenty of help here when it comes time to add new line and valve, obviously now it is most important to seal off existing.

 

Thanks for your help in my little minor emergency.

This morning I called the tile guy. I'm his job this week and he's figuring it'll only take three days with maybe a quick-finish thing on the fourth, so he was fine with the idea of pushing it back one day. Of course, I might end up without a usable kitchen into next week, but with other stuff I had to do this morning, there was going to be some kind of delay and the kitchen really isn't big enough to ask him to work around the stove.

I flirted with the idea of following PJmax's advice, but I don't know that I would have gotten it finished today, so I just ended-up capping the line inside the kitchen with a flare plug and yellow tape. The copper pipe was connected to the stove with a flared compression nut, so after turning off the gas at the meter, I disconnected it and plugged it with a male-threaded cap. (After the job, I immersed the end in a bucket of water and there were no bubbles anywhere) I don't know what I did would be an acceptable permanent fix, but I'm sure it'll work for a few days and while he's tiling, I'll look into a more permanent solution (Right now, I'm not sure of the connector on the new stove that I'll be installing in this one's wake. The connector kit that comes-up as a related product looks like it has several connectors, so I need to find out which one goes with the stove my wife chose and I'll have a couple of days to consider PJmax's excellent advice)

Again, thanks to both of you. I was in a bit of a panic because it never occurred to me there wouldn't be a cut-off behind the stove and I had a tiler coming in a few hours, but as is often the case (under this and a previous username), the great people of the forums saved my bacon.

Thanks.

 

No such thing. Flared and compression are two completely different methods of making connections. From your description of using a flare plug I suspect that is what you have, not compression which would not be acceptable for gas.

 

I'm sure you're right. I trust your knowledge of the terminology more than mine. The package I bought says "Flare" and it matched the flared nut on display at the store, I just assumed it also compressed, but I'm sure that you are right and I am wrong. Thanks.

 

And yellow tape need not be used.

 

A complete flared fitting consists of the flare nut and the fitting itself. The nut is placed on the tubing and then the end of the tubing is "flared" outwards in a cone shape to match the cone on the fitting. Tightening the nut forces the cone-shaped tubing against the cone of the fitting making a tight seal. The flare is most commonly at 45[SUP]o[/SUP] although some industrial and military fittings are 37[SUP]o[/SUP]. A special tool is required to flare the tubing.

A compression fitting uses an intermediate piece called a ferrule that slides on the tubing after the nut is slid in place. The tubing end is inserted in the fitting to "bottom out" in the fitting and the ferrule and nut are then slid up to the fitting and the nut tightened. The tightening of the nut compresses the ferrule into intimate contact with the tubing as well as the fitting. No special tools are required for a compression fitting connection.

Generally speaking a flared connection is less prone to leakage and can be used at significantly higher pressures than a compression fitting. Here are some Google images of the two different fittings.

https://www.google.com/search?q=flar...w=1152&bih=711

https://www.google.com/search?q=comp...w=1152&bih=711