No regulator on (cooktop) stove

I noticed my Gas Stove (drop in) just has gas line with cutoff valve. No regulator at all. I have book and think I can find the right part.

Is regulator required?

Is it safe to use without one (Assuming ordering one takes a few days)?

What would be the steps to install? (I'm guessing it would be in line between cut off and stove.)

Thanks!
Pond

 

Usually.

Is this a new or used stove top ?

Can you post the make and model number for it.

 

It's used. Came with house that was foreclosure so no previous info. Discovery so far has indicated previous owner loved to DIY but had no idea how to DIR (do it right). I'll get the model number when I get home. It's LP, and shows the regulator in the book so I'm pretty sure it should be there.

Is there anything "special" to keep in mind when working with gas lines?

 

Yes.... make sure they don't leak.

 

I think there's a little confusion here. You stated you have a drop in stove (range), a drop in range is not a cook top. A drop in range is similar to a free standing range, only shorter and sits on a raised platform rather than the floor. Please confirm which unit you have and post model number.

Regardless, order only the original manufacturer's regulator. The regulator will be shipped for natural gas use. To convert to LP, you will need to adjust regulator and change out burner orifices. The new regulator will come with LP orifices and instructions to convert from NG to LP.

Wait for further advice, but I would not recommend converting a natural gas appliance to LP without experience.

 

I believe the unit was already set up for propane. We just need to focus on the regulator.

 

OK,
Sorry. This is do it yourself after all.
Purchase the original part and we can guide you in making certain it is installed correctly.

 

Hello: pondbound

Some details and specific info missing but highly needed...

Suspect the stove is a free standing model and not a "drop" in countertop. Many if not all pre-50's stoves did not have regulators. However, if the model you have does show there should be one, but isn't one, then the stoves burners have orifices to compensate. If the flame sizes are presently correct, not yellow flames and not excessive in size then why not leave it as it is????.... Don't suggest fixing it if it isn't broken.

You'll need to post a photo if possible, brand name and model number if possible. Would help lot's. If you want or need a regulator for propane, consider getting it at a local retail appliance parts store. Be sure to bring the same info requested here with you. Very likely you'll get the correct part first time already converted.

However, bare in mind ALL the orifices at every burner will then need to be replaced too. Installed and then adjusted also. Lot's more work then simply replacing at regulator. Once again, if you like the appliance and it's working properly, don't fix what isn't broken might & likely applies.

My Two Cents. ¢¢

 

It is Frigidaire Electrolux GLGC36S8CSA.

Is there a way to verify it was correctly converted to LP? I looked at orifice but can't really tell. The flames don't see excessively high, and it actually seems like it heats slower than it should anyway. Any thoughts there?

 

Here's some pics

stove


Where line connects to stove


Cutoff Valve


The line from Wall to bottom of stove.


My thoughts are regulator should be between Valve and stove.

I did some more reading and yep, I am calling it the wrong thing. It is I guess a countertop range. It's just flat oven inset into top of counter with a cabinet under it.

As to why not leaving as is? That is the exact question in my first post...is it okay to do so? Manual and indeed sticker in one of my pictures indicates it's not safe to do so. My weedeater cuts fine without me wearing safety glasses but that doesn't mean its a good idea to do so.

I think orifices have been changed but am trying to confirm so and hence was hoping maybe somebody with more experience would know a way to verify.

Ultimately my goal is to be able to cook and not have to worry about burning down house or killing my family safety first

 

Looks like I pretty much found what I need here

BURNER Diagram & Parts List for Model GLGC36S8CSA Frigidaire-Parts Cooktop-Parts | SearsPartsDirect

Any suggestions for checking orifices?

 

Doh typo and I guess I waited too long to edit again. Sorry I'm struggling to properly communicate. When I said flat oven, I meant range..Thanks all sorry for confusion

 

Your appliance is called a gas cook top. It looks like regulator wasn't installed because it wouldn't fit in the cabinet. Also looks like installer wanted to save the drawer.

The new regulator will be connected directly to the 1/2" pipe nipple from bottom of cook top. You will have to cut the cabinet side a little. You can also use a elbow from cook top nipple and then install the regulator facing left, horizontally.

I can't find the conversion instructions, which is critical to identify your orifices.
Each orifice will be die stamped with a code. The instructions have a chart of the burners, and which orifice code the burner uses depending on NG or LP.
The instructions also tell you how to adjust regulator for LP.

If you want to contact Sears Technical, the number is 888-205-0966. I would talk to them before ordering parts. The parts people will not know much, so you need ask a tech if they can send you the conversion instructions before you order the parts.

 

Hello: pondbound

Now we know for sure. That is a drop in counter 5 burner top cook top ... And yes, it is suppose to have an appliance regulator. As noted on the sticker. I have seen way to many installations that where connected without a regulator in 25+ years of appliance services....

And worse yet, imo, the physical gas parts connections to the appliance. Many Manufactures have the gas inlet manifold pipe located in a place that makes connecting the regulator far to difficult when the appliance is installed into the countertop opening. Making it dam near impossible to connect the regulator directly onto the inlet manifold on the cooktop.

Which is not how yours is presently installed but how it should be installed. With no room for the regulator to be installed directly onto the intake manifold inlet pipe it was left off instead of piped in a fashion to allow proper clearing and installation. Lot's more work that a DIY'er doesn't know how to due...

How the flames look and their sizes on high now matters more than any attempts at corrections. Without a regulator and with propane orifices flames should be much larger and higher. Often causing soot and odors, etc.

As it presently is connected isn't all correct but there are no leaks and if burner flames are sized close enough, I would suggest it be left as is. Not perfect nor totally correctly connected nor installed but safe enough to leave it be as it is. It isn't unsafe nor broken and until replaced why fix what isn't broken???? Sure there might be other more important matters to attend to...

My Two Cents. ¢¢

 

The biggest problem I have is there is evidence that there was a bad stove fire for previous owner. I don't know the circumstances that led to this, but I am paranoid enough that I want it mostly 100% (99%?) correct.

The install manual shows the regulator being installed right after the cut off valve with flex from regulator to cooktop. I've ordered a regulator and will try to install it that way.

I also ordered the LP conversion kit (which comes with directions) so I'll compare the orifices I have (hopefully markings still visible) with those and either install the new ones for piece of mind or send kit back.

Then I'll have gas company come out and inspect everything.


or I'll pull all this out and get an electric

Think I'm good to go. Thanks all for your help!

 

Regulator and kit came in today. The new orifices are marked, and the label on bottom ofcook top tells which burner gets which.

Instructions for conversion kit are very brief. It just says:
1. Take cap off regulator and swap the thing inside
2. Change orifices
3. adjust screw in knob for simmer setting
4. If needed, use manometer to check manifold pressure

I don't have a manometer, but this step seemed more optional (like a just to be sure). I'll ask the gas company to check it when they leak test the tank.

Appreciate the help everyone!