Maytag oven burner cycles on and off

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  #1  
Old 11-29-15, 09:58 AM
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Maytag oven burner cycles on and off

When I turn the oven on to pre-heat the igniter gets hot and the flame lights just fine. The flame burns for about 2 minutes then it goes out and relights. It keeps doing this every few seconds.

I tested the oven sensor resistance based on other threads and it seems fine. The other post went on to say to replace the control board. This is about half the cost of a new stove so I didn't want to try it without first trying some less expensive alternatives.

I'm no expert by any means but it seems like it could be a sensor based on the fact that it seems to work fine until something is telling it to turn off the flame and the flame seems good and strong when it is lit.

The stove is about 7 years old. The model #MGR5751BDW.

Thank you for any assistance you can provide.
 
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Old 11-29-15, 10:05 AM
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Welcome to the forums.

Have you actually watched the flames ?
Does the flame get smaller and then die or is it just suddenly out ?

The heat sensor won't cause the burner to short cycle. That could be caused by the control board or possibly the HSI (igniter).

Your next step will probably be to get to the control board. At that location you can check for voltage out to the igniter and gas valve. There should be a tech sheet/wiring diagram inside the top part of the stove... possibly behind the control panel.
 
  #3  
Old 11-29-15, 10:43 AM
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Hi Pete. Thanks for the quick response.

Yes, I watched the flames. They just suddenly go out.

I do not see a diagram. I will see if I can find it online.

I will check the next steps as you have mentioned.

Thanks.
 
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Old 11-29-15, 11:02 AM
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Usually the tech sheet is easy to locate. You can use the following link to locate your stove. I believe your unit is in section 8-6 (PDF page 80)

ServiceManuals/8178713_mc-1 failure_codes_and_wiring diagrams.pdf

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  #5  
Old 11-29-15, 11:20 AM
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The oven sensor reads 1.081.

The igniter sensor reads 367.4.
 
  #6  
Old 11-29-15, 12:00 PM
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The oven temp sensor should be +/- 1080 ohms @ 70f.

The igniter (it's not a sensor) is hard to read with an ohmmeter. I usually connect an inline ampmeter (amprobe) to one of the wires. It should be 3.2-3.6 amps.

APP also has a wiring diagram for your stove. It's section 07 in their parts list.
Parts for Maytag MGR5751BDW: Gas Controls Parts - Appliance Parts Pros
 
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Old 11-29-15, 12:13 PM
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This is the meter I have. It says amprobe. I'm not really sure how to use it properly. I had it set on the ohm setting when I measured the oven sensor.
 
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Old 11-29-15, 01:23 PM
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If the oven temp sensor is only reading 1.081 ohms, do you think I should try replacing that?
 
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Old 11-29-15, 01:33 PM
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The sensor needs to be disconnected when tested. Are you sure you're putting the decimal in the correct place ?
 
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Old 11-29-15, 03:26 PM
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It is disconnected when testing and I'm reading where the decimal is exactly. Unless the meter is set differently. Like I said I don't really know how to read the meter. I set it to the ohm position (straight up) and it reads anywhere from 1.081 to 1.089. The different reads come from when I test at the top by the control board and when I test it down by the temperature sensor.
 
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Old 11-29-15, 04:01 PM
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If you look at the screen to the right of the digits you'll see mΩ or kΩ or just Ω. Those are multipliers. You'll probably see 1.081 kΩ which is 1081 ohms. K=1000.
 
  #12  
Old 11-29-15, 04:08 PM
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Ok. Thanks. You are right. This is right in range.

I wasn't able to get a good test on the gas valve (is this the safety valve?).

So at this point I'm guessing it's either the gas valve or the control board. I still need to figure out how to properly test the gas valve.

Thanks.
 
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Old 11-29-15, 04:33 PM
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The circuit is very basic and easy to work thru. I'll usually access the control board and connect my meter black lead to the chassis and the red probe to pin 2 on the green plug. Now I watch what the power does. It the meter shows power and there is no flame.... the problem is down below.

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You'll notice the igniter and gas valve are in a series loop like Christmas lights. Don't ever short out the igniter lines to each other or ground or the gas valve will be instantly destroyed. When the system is operating normally.... you'll get around 3.2-3.6 vac across the gas valve.

The ignition system works by applying power to the safety valve thru the igniter. The igniter starts to glow. When it reaches white hot...... the current goes up sharply and the gas valve opens. If the igniter is weak.... the safety valve won't open properly. If the igniter is intermittent.... the burner will operate intermittently.
 
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Old 11-29-15, 06:14 PM
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I put the black lead on the chassis and the red on pin 2 on the green plug. I didn't get any activity on the meter. There is no flame, the stove is unplugged and the gas off.
 
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Old 11-30-15, 12:55 AM
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You can leave the gas off but you won't read any voltage with the stove unplugged.

Ultimately you'll need to have the gas on too because you will want to run the oven to see it's progress. You will need to run the oven until you detect the flame out problem.
 
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Old 11-30-15, 06:45 PM
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As soon as I turn the oven on bake the meter is jumping all over the place. I watched it when the flame started and when it went out. It was the same since I turned on the bake - jumping all over. Sometimes there were readings of 0.1, 0.9, 2.3, 2.4. It wouldn't stay at one reading for much longer than I could read it. Does this mean it's the control board?
 
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Old 11-30-15, 09:00 PM
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I had to look up your meter. When you set it to the voltage section it's defaulted to DC mode.
You need to push SELECT until AC mode is engaged.

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Old 12-01-15, 04:23 PM
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I got the meter set to AC as you described and tested it. It reads 120 steady through the entire process from when I hit bake, through flame, and cycling out and on.

So I guess this says the problem is down below.

I've already tested the oven sensor. I don't think I've properly tested anything else - probably due to confusion.

What do you think I should test next? I may need assistance setting up the meter if I need to use it.

Thank you for your patience. I'm hopeful we can get this resolved shortly.
 
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Old 12-01-15, 05:23 PM
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That test tells you that the board and the sensor are ok. The sensor tells the board when to send 120v to the bake circuit.

I would change the igniter...... it sounds like its cracked. You can remove it and do a visual inspection. You may see a bad spot in the ceramic.
 
  #20  
Old 12-01-15, 07:15 PM
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Do you have a preferred place to purchase this part? I have found a couple sites but they seem like they are a universal fit and different prices.

Thanks.
 
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Old 12-01-15, 07:34 PM
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I have no preferred place to purchase online. I normally purchase parts locally from an appliance parts distributor.

When you order the igniter..... make sure you tell them it's the oven igniter and not the broiler igniter. Have the serial number available as I've seen two bake igniters listed for your oven.
 
  #22  
Old 12-04-15, 05:11 PM
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I replaced the bake igniter and it is now working. Thank you so much for your help!
 
  #23  
Old 12-04-15, 05:20 PM
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Awesome news.... good job. Thanks for letting us know how you made out.
 
 

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