Kitchenaid KGYE900S Gas Dryer: Burner Won't Stay Lit, Even w/ new Coils


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Old 06-20-16, 07:25 PM
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Kitchenaid KGYE900S Gas Dryer: Burner Won't Stay Lit, Even w/ new Coils

Hey there....I'm embarrassed to admit it, but my wife loves her 1989 Kitchenaid "Superba" laundry pair even more than me--I think. But I dutifully go on repairing them, with the help of forum friends.

This time around, the gas dryer was taking too long to dry clothes. I hadn't replaced the gas valve coils for about 14 years, so I decided to quick-swap them with brand new Whirlpool parts.*That seemed to fix the problem for all of 24 hours.

My observations: When run "free vented," the gas valve clicks, the igniter glows nicely, the burner ignites, it runs for maybe one or two minutes, then the burner abruptly turns off. A few seconds later the gas valve closes. When I try to run it some more, the igniter glows but the burner does not ignite again; the igniter continues to cycle on and off every minute or so, but no luck.

This happens whether I am in an automatic cycle or a timed cycle. The control board is cutting off the automatic cycles when running empty at the correct times, so appears to be good.

So...would you say it is*the gas valve itself; thermistor; high-limit thermostat? I guess if I go down the multitester path, I should also check the new coils and make sure they're in spec. Is there something I could have messed up?

(FYI---I found the on-board troubleshooting sheet says the thermistor resistance should be 1,000 to 15,000 ohms. High limit t-stat is checked by removing thermistor,*blocking the vent totally and seeing if it the t-stat "trips" after 21 to 38 seconds.)

Thanks for any advice! (I also posted to appliantology.org)

-- Greg
 
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Old 06-20-16, 07:53 PM
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With Whirlpool dryers there is a two pin white nylon plug near the burner. Those two wires supply 120v to the burner assembly. When there is 120v.... the burner operates.

Two things.... connect your meter to the plug while it's plugged into the burner. See if you are losing the 120v. I've also had a problem where the pins get corroded or loosen up. I've had to cut those plugs off and hard wire the burner.
 
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Old 06-21-16, 03:43 AM
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I can tell you how your dryer is working. On first start up dryer will heat for a couple of minutes, After that the time it will stay lit will go down. You need to clean or repair vent to the outside. Easy way to check is take vent off back of dryer and feel air flow, reconnect vent go outside and feel air flow, should be about the same. Let us know what you find. Your dryer is just as good as the new ones.
 
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Old 06-22-16, 06:22 AM
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Hi guys

PJ, that's worth checking. To clarify: Do I probe the plug while it's plugged in and the drying is calling for heat? (Is there a hole on the plug to probe while connected?) You mentioned the wires lead to the burner assembly...do they power the igniter? Thanks.

Pugsli, we did have the dryer vent cleaned out several months ago and all appears well. I disconnected the vent tube and pulled the dryer away from the wall and then ran the dryer. Same behavior; burner lit for a while, and seemed to burn well, but did not stay lit.

Thanks again

- Greg
 
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Old 06-22-16, 08:18 AM
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Yes.... check with the dryer calling for heat.
 
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Old 06-22-16, 09:59 AM
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You may have to take the vent shute off and clean in there. You will have to take back off dryer to do this. I have found everything from underwear to jackets that have gone down the chute. If you have a STRONG AIR FLOW AT BACK OF DRYER THIS WILL NOT BE NESSARY. I always lean to vent problems from years of working on nothing but laundry machines. Check which ever is easiest first either could be problem. I find air flow the biggest problems with dryers.
 
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Old 06-22-16, 12:53 PM
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Thanks Pete. I have the bad habit of asking multiple questions.

Is there a hole on the plug to probe while connected? Other way?

BTW, do these wires to the burner assembly power the igniter?
 
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Old 06-23-16, 12:08 AM
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The burner assembly is 100% self contained. Everything in that assembly is powered by that 120v line. If you messed with the coils.... you should have seen the plug.... it's right there.

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Old 06-23-16, 04:10 AM
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You can unplug the connection and probe the side from dryer. With dryer running in heat you should read 120 on one of the wires. Probe wire to ground or neutral.
 
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Old 06-25-16, 09:42 AM
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PJ, I unplugged the connection and indeed read 120v coming from the board.

I replaced the coils; the burner fires up fine and stays lit until it cycles off (having reached temp limit); but then won't relight. Ignitor cycles on and off but no re-light.

Maybe the gas valve actually is bad.

Or maybe the flame sensor works sometimes, but not all the time?
 

Last edited by gregger77; 06-25-16 at 09:58 AM.
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Old 06-25-16, 11:13 AM
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Still sounds like a bad coil. When coils go bad they work 1 time until they heat up than will not relight. When coils heat up they open until they cool down.
 
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Old 06-25-16, 05:36 PM
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Right you were pugsl...as usual!!

I tested the new coils I'd gotten, and found the larger one was bad. No continuity. So I popped in a replacement...and we're off and running again.

Thanks pugsl and PJax for the first rate help and knowledge.
 
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Old 06-25-16, 09:57 PM
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Good job.... thanks for letting us know the outcome.
 
 

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