Dryer ducting doohickey

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Old 09-24-16, 05:25 AM
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Dryer ducting doohickey

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That's right, I said doohickey :-)

I'm hoping someone can take a look at the doohickey in the picture and tell me what it is and how to use it.

If you look at the first picture, which is where I moved the lever to close the little door of the doohickey, then you don't feel the exhaust air anymore (and I'm assuming it's traveling out the rest of the ducting.

The second picture shows it "open", so when you put your hand in front of it while the dryer is running you can feel the air exhaust of the dryer. Not really sure why you would want it that way.

Btw, aren't you not supposed to use this kind of ducting anymore? Aren't you supposed to use the stiff/rigid kind with the smooth inside?

Thanks!
 
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Old 09-24-16, 06:16 AM
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It is a post filter doohickey, and should be vertical just above the dryer control board. It is missing a door. It could also be used to duct warmed air into a space such as a garage or basement, but not a good idea since the ducted warm air will be moist and could cause mold and mildew problems.

You are correct, the corrugated flex pipe went by the way of dinosaurs. It should be rigid pipe all the way to the wall. I would eliminate this box and proceed with solid pipe. You won't miss it.
 
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Old 09-24-16, 06:44 AM
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Isn't it still common practice to use the flex pipe between the dryer and the hard pipe in the wall/floor ??
 
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Old 09-24-16, 07:38 AM
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You can for short exposed runs. Where the problem came to be was running long lengths laterally, and the weight of the moistened air created water, and the water created its own p traps, stopping up the air flow. Changed many 20+ foot runs of the corrugated for just that reason. As long as the flex isn't kinked, it won't present a problem.
 
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Old 09-24-16, 07:54 AM
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My preference is all rigid, no flex, even at the dryer. It takes a little patience sometimes, and there are quite likely unique installations that I have not run into that make it impossible, but I assemble and tape everything so that the duct slips onto the dryer connector as it is slid into place. Sometimes I have used a piece of string to hold the duct up or a yard stick or whatever to tap it into alignment, but it can be done, at least in a lot of cases.
 
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Old 09-24-16, 07:59 AM
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These also come in quite handy when venting either slightly laterally or vertically. Dundas Jafine Adjustable 28 in. to 45 in. Space Saver Aluminum Dryer Duct-UD48S - The Home Depot
 
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Old 09-24-16, 09:13 AM
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I've always known that any long lengths of the flex duct should be avoided. In my house I use a 3'-4' piece of flex duct to go between the hard duct in the floor and the dryer. I just pulled it out the other day thinking maybe it was restricted but it was fairly clean. I don't have any intentions of changing it out but you did get me curious
 
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Old 09-24-16, 11:55 AM
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The dryer ducting doohickey box should not be used on a gas dryer. That allows the burned gases to enter the house. I believe they were only intended to be used on an electric dryer.
 
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Old 09-24-16, 12:49 PM
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What Is the purpose of the doohickey? Is it just an additional lint trap/filter that you're supposed to clean out? Or is it just to add some head to the room if you want to?
 
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Old 09-24-16, 12:50 PM
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It allowed heated air from the dryer to escape into the house.
Some heated air is good. Some moisture is ok. The gas fumes are not ok.
 
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Old 09-24-16, 07:39 PM
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That flex line your showing in that picture would burn through in about 10 sec. with a dryer fire.
I get to go to at least 3 a year and every single time that's what failed and caused the fire.
I agree those things where just a very bad idea for several reasons.
A fire needs air to to get going, what better way then to have an opening in the vent line.
No way do you want to be dumping hot moist air inside a home.
What two things are needed to grow mold, moisture and warmth, you just added both.
 
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Old 09-25-16, 05:04 AM
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I agree with all of the above. Get rid of the flex line and go all rigid. If you must use a flex line there is a semi-rigid type similar to this:
1TLXXXX0201.67 - Z-FLEX 1TLXXXX0201.67 - 2" x 20" Triple Lock Aluminum Flex Duct

Do not use the foil type.
 
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Old 09-25-16, 05:10 AM
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That looks similar to the flex line I have on my dryer - about 3' or so long, just enough to pull the dryer out of the hole.
 
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Old 09-25-16, 05:58 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I think I've used that semi-flexible stuff before. See below. It was part of a kit from Home Depot that has two rigid angle pieces and then the flex part that you see below. I wonder if I should have done this install a different way.

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Last edited by PJmax; 09-25-16 at 12:06 PM. Reason: reoriented picture
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Old 09-25-16, 06:28 AM
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That install looks good. Problem with the aluminum flex and the hard flex that over time the dryer gets pushed back and crunches them. Been in way to many houses that the only thing wrong with dryer is vent hose crushed behind the dryer.
 
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Old 09-26-16, 07:24 AM
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Simple and easy solution to prevent dryer from being slid back to close to wall crushing flex line.

Non rocket science solution below:



Cut two sections of a 2x4 the width of the dryer. Lay them on floor behind dryer side by side. Then slide dryer back up against the two sections. Dryer now cannot be slide or pushed back any further then the width of the two 2x4's.

Use one of the types of saws below to cut the board:









Don't have any of the above?......

Have this one to chop wood?......

BTW:
Another Non rocket science solution for refrigerator below:





This 2x4 trick (Method) should also be used for refrigerators. Remove back cardboard and front kick panel. Use reversed air from either shop vacuum or house vacuum to blow out dust. Replace front panel and back cardboard. Place the two cut boards behind refrigerator and slide it back. The air space will allow air to freely flow in from back to front. Which most refrigerators use for air flow direction. Back to front air flow. Refrigerator will cool quickly and use less electric...

Done? Excellent....

Have a BREW or two.



 
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