Reconnecting old dryer


  #1  
Old 10-20-16, 10:28 PM
J
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Reconnecting old dryer

Hi folks,

Had an existing dryer in the basement that I uninstalled and sold. I'm trying to hook up a different dryer and want to be sure I'm installing it correctly. Went to Home Depot and bought a new (yellow) flex line too. Here is the link for it: HD link

My installation is a little different than how it was hooked up earlier, so I want to be sure it's correct. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

The attached pictures show the old hookup to the old dryer and gas source, and then the new hookup to the "new" (old) dryer and the gas source.

So I guess my questions are:

1. Overall, does this install look right?

2. At the gas source, you'll see that I removed the long piece (nipple?) and the fitting in order to use the new valve. Is that ok?

3. At the dryer, I didn't use the silver fitting that came with the new flex line. I just hooked the flex line up to the existing flare fitting on the dryer.

4. If I understand correctly from the last time we went through this, I should use either pipe dope or tape at the threads I marked as "A" and "D", but not "B" or "C", right?

Phew....I think that's all. Thanks!

Attachment 72164


Attachment 72165
 
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  #2  
Old 10-21-16, 03:48 AM
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Looks good. However, I would get rid of that vent pipe and use rigid pipe or at least the metal flex stuff. Not that foil junk.
 
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Old 10-21-16, 05:15 AM
J
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Thanks Norm. How about question #4 about the pipe dope or tape? Is it correct to use tape in those locations?
 
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Old 10-21-16, 05:22 AM
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I should use either pipe dope or tape at the threads I marked as "A" and "D", but not "B" or "C", right?
That is correct. .
 
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Old 11-06-16, 01:23 AM
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Sometimes it's the simplest things that drive me nuts. Me and these worm gear clamps never seem to get along. I put the smooth end of the 90° elbow over the rigid end of the ouptput ducting of the dryer, and put a worm gear clamp over it and tightened it. Can't really tighten it anymore and yet if you pull slightly on the elbow, it slides right off the dryer's output ducting. I have some of that foil tape, I just feel like i should be able to do without it. Should I put a screw through the elbow? <frustrated>

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Old 11-06-16, 03:53 AM
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A clamp won't compress the metal.
Drill a pilot hole and use a few sheet metal screws, or there are self-tapping zip screws made for duct (1/4" hex head)
Seal the joint with foil tape, it's the best.
 
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Old 11-06-16, 03:53 AM
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No, don't use a screw, it will allow lint to accumulate. You can use a rivet, but that too will collect lint.

Are you pushing the pieces together far enough? They should fit tight if you push them together. The clamp should be there to hold it in place so temp changes don't let it loosen. Use the foil tape. No harm done.
 
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Old 11-06-16, 10:26 AM
J
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Thanks for the replies. I was able to remove the little access panel in the back of the dryer, which allowed me to remove the dryer's duct. Then I was able to properly tape and clamp the duct to that 90-degree piece. That tape is amazing.

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Old 11-06-16, 10:38 AM
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At that location you don't need screws, clamps or tape. That 90 fitting should stay on by pressure fit only. It needs to be able to be removed for yearly cleaning.
 
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Old 11-07-16, 03:39 AM
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Agreed. I never tape my joints. A hard press fit is all that should be needed. As PJ say's, you'll need to remove that joint occasionally for cleaning and repair,.
 
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Old 11-07-16, 08:53 AM
J
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Smile

Maybe I need to eat more Wheaties

It was tough because the ducting piece coming out of the dryer was only sticking out of the dryer about 2", which made it difficult to connect to. Even connecting it with the clamp alone and then giving it a test run, the force of the dyer's air pushed the 90-degree piece right off.

When I was able to get better access and taped and clamped it, I even thought to myself I'm going to have a heck of a time cleaning this out lol.

On a side note, I did see one of those quick-connect pieces at Home Depot that allows you to disconnect everything for cleaning purposes. It was plastic, though, so I was skeptical.
 
 

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