Kenmore Gas Dryer Not Heating

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Old 10-08-17, 05:57 AM
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Kenmore Gas Dryer Not Heating

Good morning,

I have a 23 year old gas dryer that for the first time is not heating. The dryer is operating, but there is no heat. The circuit breakers are all on in the breaker box. The lint screen is as clean as I can get it.

I have done some googling and found that it could be a fuse or heating element. It's a Sears Kenmore gas dryer, model number 97573220.

Now, I have in the past replaced the lid switch on my washer, and twice replaced the agitator 'pegs'. So I have done some diy projects related to the washer. However, I have never done anything with the gas dryer.

I don't have a electric 'tester' to see if the parts are good or not. What do you recommend for:

1) diagnosing the problem
2) fixing the problem

Thanks in advance for your help!
 

Last edited by bper123; 10-08-17 at 06:14 AM. Reason: report an additional check
  #2  
Old 10-08-17, 06:41 AM
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Here is a diagram of dryer. On ALL Kenmore products there is a 3 number code in front of model # that is needed, I guessed at 110 and it worked (code for Whirlpool)
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/mod...rm=11097573220.
There are several parts that could cause your problem. You will need a multi meter to check.
First I would take the back off and check the thermal fuse part # 39 under bulkhead and thermostat there both should have continuity. If thermal fuse is open replace it and clean vent to outside. Clean vent anyway as vents cause 95% of all dryer problems. Next you need to check the Hi limit thermostat usually mounted on burner tube. Can't find on diagram but it is there someplace. All parts I talk about should have continuity. After that than the ignitor and flame sensor. All I could find is part 64 under cabinet but it should have 2 parts sensor and ignitor. Need help taking dryer apart let us know, omlt thing to check or take apart from back is back cover all rest from front.
 
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Old 10-08-17, 09:17 AM
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Thanks for your response.

Yes, the 3 code is 110.

I will need help taking apart the dryer. Also, I'm assuming that moving the dryer would disrupt the gas line connection. How do I do all of this moving without disturbing the gas line? The dryer and vent hose is against a wall. I would have to physically move the dryer in order to access the back.

I've never used a multi meter before, so I would have to know also how to test, and where those parts are located.

Thanks very much.
 
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Old 10-08-17, 11:41 AM
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UNPLUG DRYER FIRST
Dryer should have enough room in gas line to move out and back will come off without disconnecting. Vent tube Usually has enough to pull out but anybody's guess. About 8 to 10 1/4 screws hold back on. Do you have a meter or are you going to get one. Find a cheap one at Harbor freight, Lowes or HD get one that has a continuity test. when leads touched together it will beep or buzz. Good part will make a sound.when both contacts touched.
Take lint screen out.
Front of dryer removal.
Take 2 screws out under lint screen.
Pull top toward you and will and front will come off hold downs, if still stuck use a stiff putty knife between top and body in front and pry up.
Unplug lid switch. 2 screws in front near top on sides 5/16 take out front will tilt out and lift up.
Look under drum and see how belt is threaded, Take belt off idler. Use belt to help lift drum out, Will come out front.
Hi limit thermostat should be mounted on to of burner. Sensor and ignitor on side.
 
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Old 10-10-17, 06:52 AM
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Thanks. I will attempt to go through each step, by step.

One thing I also noticed, is that the timed drying is not working meaning that the timer doesn't seem to have any affect.

I assume that the timed drying isn't dependent on the heat, therefore after a certain time, the dryer should stop. The timer never moves. So it appears I may have two problems, unless the heat is dependent on whether the timer dial is working.
 
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Old 10-13-17, 05:33 PM
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Good evening. I'm about to get started removing the back of the dryer.

Do I have to shut off the gas?
 
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Old 10-13-17, 06:12 PM
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Since you'll be sliding the dryer away from the wall.... shut the gas off. You may need to remove the flexible gas line from the gas valve if there is not enough slack on the flex line.

This video gives you a quick look into what you'll see when you pull the back cover off. you tube/watch?v=aUQQJAxkZ0g
 
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Old 10-13-17, 06:56 PM
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Thanks. Will try now......
 
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Old 10-13-17, 07:56 PM
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Well, I tested the thermostat with a multi-meter and got continuity. I tested the thermal fuse and got NO continuity. So, I suppose I would have to replace the thermal fuse, and clean the vent to the outside. Hopefully that should solve the problem?

I only tested those two parts from the back of the dryer.
 

Last edited by bper123; 10-13-17 at 08:05 PM. Reason: additional info
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Old 10-13-17, 09:33 PM
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You can temporarily test the dryer by shorting those two terminals together. Run the dryer just until the heat starts.

There's a good chance that is the only problem. Dryer vents should be cleaned yearly so if yours has been untouched for many years.... that would be the cause of the problem.
 
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Old 10-14-17, 05:44 AM
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Thanks. I really don't know how to short the terminals, sorry to say, and I'm a bit leery of doing that. So, my plan is to buy one this morning and then give it a try. I've had this dryer for 23 years and I don't remember the vents ever being cleaned. Chances are no other maintenance has been done either. Now that the back is off, is there anything else I should do while in there? Should the lint screen 'tank' be removed or cleaned? My vacuum hose can't fit down there. I'm assuming the only place to get the fuse is from sears parts. Am I wrong? Are they sold anywhere else? Are the parts just as good?
 
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Old 10-14-17, 06:42 AM
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I think the blower will run even with thermal fuse bad. If so ture dryer on with back off and feel air flow. Should be a strong flow. Remember this and after vent cleaned flow outside should be the same. I always test dryer before I put back on.
 
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Old 10-14-17, 07:28 AM
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Thumbs up

Yes, I believe you're right because air was still 'drying' the clothes even though dryer was not getting hot. I will test.

Surprisingly, there wasn't as much lint in the vent hose as I expected after so many years. Some lint came out, of course, but not very much.

Thanks!
 
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Old 10-14-17, 09:08 AM
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I bought the new thermal fuse. I checked the vent from the other end and found a lot more lint! The first time, I pulled out all of the lint from the inside to the outside. The second time, I went from the outside end inside and much more lint came out.

I checked the airflow inside and out as a test, as pugsl suggested, and the airflow was strong at both ends.

I replaced the fuse, connected everything back, closed the back cover, plugged it in, turned on the gas, crossed my fingers :-) and, we're back in business. Dryer running, heat flowing, I'm happy.

Big shout out to pugsl, PJmax, the posted links, videos, and well wishers. You folks were a great help, couldn't have done it without you! Thanks a lot. Thanks diy!
 
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Old 10-14-17, 09:59 AM
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Be sure to clean that vent yearly or you will have problem again. Thanks for the update.
 
 

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