Dryer doesn't turn on

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  #1  
Old 12-06-17, 09:37 AM
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Unhappy Dryer doesn't turn on

Hotpoint® 6.0 cu. ft. capacity Dura Drum gas dryer
Model number: HTDX100GM8WW

It appears this model doesn't have a thermal fuse, but a thermostat fuse (are they different things?) part no. WE1X21975
I checked for continuity, and it seems fine.

There are some good diagrams here:
https://www.geapplianceparts.com/sto...y/HTDX100GM8WW

I also checked the venting tube, and it doesn't look like much is in there. Hasn't been cleaned since new (2 years now)

Door switch seems fine and so does start switch, but have not yet tested for continuity

The outlet is fine, I tested it with an outlet tester.

Any suggestions?
 

Last edited by gecko316; 12-06-17 at 10:35 AM.
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  #2  
Old 12-06-17, 10:13 AM
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It's as likely as not that you're thinking along the right track with the door switch, as it's not an uncommon culprit. But you need to check it with your meter; I've replaced at least a few, and as far as I recall none of them looked or felt bad by simply pressing the button in.
 
  #3  
Old 12-06-17, 10:31 AM
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When you push the start button does it hum? Need a ohm meter to check door switch. Is there a light in dryer? If so with door closed one pair of wires will be open and one pair will be closed. Thermostat usually only shut off heat it open. Sorry I could not find wiring diagram for your dryer.
 
  #4  
Old 12-06-17, 10:46 AM
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I checked the start switch with a multi-meter, works fine. no humming or anything when connected.

I will check the door switch with a multi-meter as soon as i can figure out how to get to it. there is no light switch. looks a little complicated, but will check out some youtube videos.
 
  #5  
Old 12-06-17, 10:57 AM
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  #6  
Old 12-06-17, 11:01 AM
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UNPLUG DRYER FIRST
Does the drum turn free or do you feel the
motor resistance? There is a broken belt switch in dryer by the motor.
That hotpoint is a GE with a different name plate. To get to door switch, Open door, there ar 2 screws in top of frame (about 2 to 2 1/2 inches long, take screws out, top will slide forward and tilt up. depending on how new dryer is top will need ti slide to left or older ones tilt and come out of tabs in console. Inside dryer 2 screws that hold front on, Tilt front out and lift off pegs. Mark wires before you take them off, Older ones wires will fit all plugs newer ones will only fit one way.
 
  #7  
Old 12-06-17, 11:16 AM
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looks like it might be the door switch, i initially got a reading on the multimeter with the button depressed, but now it almost never works.

i will replace this as soon as i can and report back
 
  #8  
Old 12-06-17, 12:54 PM
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replaced door switch, still no luck with it working
 
  #9  
Old 12-06-17, 02:17 PM
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Did you check the volts going to dryer. Should be 240. Is the belt good?
 
  #10  
Old 12-06-17, 02:25 PM
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@ Pugsi.....gas dryer.

Check from the brown/yellow wire on the door switch to ground with the door closed. There should be 0v.

I see a fuse and a thermal switch in the hot line. You need to confirm 120vac at terminal 3 on the start switch.
Check it to ground and to the brown/yellow wire. Both should show 120vac.

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  #11  
Old 12-06-17, 02:34 PM
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OK I will try to test some of those things mentioned. Is there a chance it's the control timer and if so how do I test that?
 
  #12  
Old 12-06-17, 04:16 PM
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so i tested the outlet again and was getting no voltage. the outside breaker had been tripped. i reset the outside breaker and confirmed the outlet was getting voltage. Then I plugged the machine back in only to see a flash of electricity coming from the right side, close to where the gas line is. i had the gas valve switched off... this really gave me a scare

did i reconnect things up incorrectly or something?
 
  #13  
Old 12-06-17, 04:21 PM
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I don't know. Unplug the machine and investigate.

Not making sense..... you had power to the receptacle and then you didn't.
Now it appears there may be a short inside the dryer.
 
  #14  
Old 12-06-17, 04:42 PM
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Where did you see the spark. At the outlet or low near gas line? If at the outlet you have a dead short in dryer. You took the front off check that you did not pinch wires.
 
  #15  
Old 12-06-17, 04:48 PM
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the things i messed with were 1. taking out the 30A fuse and the connecting black wires 2. the door switch and 3. the front panel.

1. I have a picture of the two black wires going in, they look the same and not sure if orientation is important:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Uv...KLtALa1RgBzLML

I will check 2 and 3

I would have to guess the spark was near the gas line, but it looked like it was spread out.
 
  #16  
Old 12-06-17, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by gecko316 View Post
the things i messed with were 1. taking out the 30A fuse and the connecting black wires 2. the door switch and 3. the front panel.

1. I have a picture of the two black wires going in, they look the same and not sure if orientation is important:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Uv...KLtALa1RgBzLML

I will check 2 and 3

I would have to guess the spark was near the gas line, but it looked like it was spread out.
OK, so dumbass (me) didn't reconnect the wires to the start switch.

i didn't take a photo of the original connection but I believe the brown wire goes on the bottom where the switch on/off gate is and red wire on top

any thoughts?

also the metal wire connection to the brown wire is slightly warped and charred

UPDATE- EVERYTHING SEEMS TO BE WORKING- FINALLY
 

Last edited by gecko316; 12-06-17 at 05:30 PM.
  #17  
Old 12-07-17, 01:30 AM
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Thanks for the update. Reason I had you take picture on GE branded ones with a light 4 wires that can plug on any post. (ask me how I know)
 
  #18  
Old 12-07-17, 08:57 AM
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So did we ever locate the problem ?
 
  #19  
Old 12-08-17, 09:34 PM
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Problem was with the door switch

New switch fixed it

I created a short by not reconnecting the wires to the start switch after testing it
 
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