Non-heating dryer


  #1  
Old 12-26-17, 05:34 PM
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Non-heating dryer

Kenmore model 11097586200. Just quit heating when I started a load, didn't notice if it happened at beginning of cycle or part way in, but assume beginning since auto-dry knob was in exact same position 2 hrs later. Time position does indeed countdown and shut off.

Have static checked thermal fuse, thermal cutout, gas valve coils, ignitor, cycling thermostat (?), high limit stat, etc. All have tested good for continuity or required resistance.

Moved to operational testing after speaking to a local guy. Closed door and set panel to side and tested voltage to ignitor. Swear he said 120V should appear once motor starts and switch makes, but I'm only getting just above 28V. Now that seems to me it might be correct and he mispoke. But then, there's no components that I remember that would drop the voltage...sooo

Any thoughts? Going to see if I have a schematic or can find one online now.
 

Last edited by Gunguy45; 12-26-17 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 12-26-17, 05:53 PM
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Take a continuity check of ignitor & flame sensor. I usually find ignitor.open. If either ignitor. or flame sensor open they are bad. 28 volts sounds like one of them bad.
 
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Old 12-26-17, 07:50 PM
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Could the temp select or "fabric care selector" cause such a thing? It is giving me some very strange inconsistent readings. The resistors are all fine, and sometimes if I check the switch out of circuit, I get the expected readings, sometimes not. I mean, electronics is my background and it just seems like I should be getting solid constant readings at each of the 4 positions. I'm about ready to jumper the connector and see what happens.

Yeah, that 28V needs to be rechecked...that was disconnected from the igniter, so I may not have had the leads in good or something. The ignitor was in the green for continuity, figured since flame sensor doesn't have any affect until AFTER you get ignition, shouldn't be an issue, but I'll check it.

I CANNOT believe this little 4 position rotary switch is one of the most expensive parts. At 3 sites, it varies from $32-43. I'll probably hit up the repair places for "used" parts before I order. Not like they will ever use them anyway most likely. Neighbor has one in pieces in his back yard that I already scavenged some parts off of, may see if he has a compatible switch too. Of course I know the older these things get, the more expensive the parts that aren't common. But come on...they all want almost $30 for just a stamped piece of sheetmetal to cover the terminal block area.
 
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Old 12-26-17, 08:16 PM
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The 28v you're seeing is a phantom/induced voltage which is the same as 0v.
You should be measuring a full 120vac to the two wires that supply the burner assy. when the plugs are connected.

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Old 12-26-17, 09:47 PM
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Yeah, at the flame sensor testing point now. Looked closer at schematic and saw it seems to go through that, but I thought it was only AFTER the main gas coils had kicked in. Odd that its phantom? I'm using a quality meter...Fluke 77AN from my military days. Anyway...it's narrowed down. Just hoping neighbor has a few more parts over there and didn't chuck 'em. The kids turned the bodys of the washer and dryer into a fort after he ripped most of the guts out...lol. If the gas valve is bad and I can't find a used one...time to start shopping for a new/used dryer. Flame sensor, igniter, coils, ok...but if it's much more expense than that..not really worth it.

Hope one of you guys stays up late...I'll probably be at this til 3AM if I don't get a definitive diagnosis
 
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Old 12-26-17, 10:42 PM
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We have a winner! The flame sensor is FUBAR. No continuity! Should be a pretty commonly carried part at a local repair place I imagine? As long as they don't try to take my first born for it.

Now, we replace that and hope the selector switch isn't also bad...I mean, what are the odds right? Anything I should also replace at the same time? Igniter maybe, though it reads fine and I've been careful with it?
 
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Old 12-26-17, 11:21 PM
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Flame sensor # 338906 Pretty inexpensive.
HSI # 279311 (igniter)

Just make sure you have 120v where I marked. If the voltage is there.... everything else in the dryer is ok. The burner is a complete stand alone unit.
 
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Old 12-29-17, 11:18 PM
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Thank you all, dryer is flaming away now. The main repair guy came in while I was ordering and asked if I was sure it was the sensor and not the ignitor. Told him one reads good, one reads bad...which would you replace? Crazy, but they had to order it. Guy said they don't carry it because they never go bad. Of course, when I asked about the ignitor and changing them both...they didn't carry that either and it would take 4-5 days because they had to order from a different supplier. They had belts and thermal fuses, but not much else. Didn't even have anything in his used stock...and they have lots of that!

So $28, 2 days from order to repaired...good to go for another 22 yrs. And I now have a very clean dryer that I can disassemble in about 5 min.

Thanks again...I'm the household hero...until tomorrow at least.
 
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Old 12-31-17, 04:18 AM
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When I was working I carried both on truck, They both go bad ignitor more common.
 
 

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