Viking rangetop won't stop clicking or won't light


  #1  
Old 01-24-18, 04:23 AM
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Viking rangetop won't stop clicking or won't light

I have a Viking VGRT548-6g. 3 of the igniters won't stop clicking after lighting, 2 stop clicking after being lit and 1 one igniter won't light at all.

after reading posts on here, I tried cleaning each of the igniters with rubbing alcohol and q-tips. After that didn't work, I tried swapping a "good" igniter to one that was always clicking and the clicking persisted.

That leads me to believe it's the ignition module. I checked a parts list/diagram. The manual indicated I was supposed to have 6 individual PA020058 spark modules. Instead, I see that a Invensys u-67205-28 was installed which I think is PA020048. I was going to buy a PA020048 module to replace the existing module. I just wanted confirmation from somebody with experience that the 1 module was a good replacement for the 6 individual ones.
 

Last edited by Keenez; 01-24-18 at 04:28 AM. Reason: found out more information
  #2  
Old 01-24-18, 09:53 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

Viking.... always a better way.
The single spark modules are installed on and operated by the gas valve for each burner. If a common spark module was installed then that means 6 burner mounted switches were installed. That would be a costly upgrade.

Yes.... those two spark units are interchangeable.
These types of spark modules are called re-ignition. If the flame goes out the spark will re-start. These units work by the flame actually touching the igniter. That means the holes on the side of the burner facing the igniter need to be clean. If the actual flame doesn't touch it..... it doesn't know the burner is lit.
 
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Old 05-13-18, 06:51 AM
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Where can I get the re-ignition spark modules? Viking sell it with the plate and are very expensive
Thank You for your help
Carlos
 
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Old 05-13-18, 09:46 AM
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You've got an expensive appliance so the parts are also going to be more expensive.

Spark modules are sold at every online parts retailer.
Without a model number of your appliance or the spark module part number.....
I can't be of much more help.
 
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Old 05-21-19, 02:53 PM
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update

Just as an update, apparently, the previous owner of my house told me the wrong model number of my rangetop. My range was actually model VGRT482-6G, which I found after looking for it a bit. It was supposed to be a single spark module for all 6 burners.

After purchasing a new spark module, I can get all 6 burners to light.

So the minor annoyance now is that burners keep constantly clicking (trying to re-ignite). Somebody mentioned to me that there's a specific "pair" for ignitor to lead on the spark module. That I had to find the correct matching "pairs". I attempted to do that. He also mentioned that if I turned on all the burners at once, the clicking should stop but turning on all the burners doesn't stop the clicking for me.

I have a bit of an electronics background and understand now that the flames actually complete the circuit and that all the ignitors actually try to re-ignite at once (rather than just the one I'm lighting).

Where should I be putting my voltmeter leads to measure current and what should I be expecting?
 
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Old 05-21-19, 02:57 PM
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Carlos,

What model of range do you have?

I googled for a parts diagram and then google the part number for the spark module. My spark module was PA020048 but yours may be different, depending on the number of burners. Also, the model of my range was different than what I originally posted.
 
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Old 05-21-19, 03:44 PM
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I didn't realize we had two members here in one thread. Makes for a confusing thread.

When you have a multichannel re-ignition module..... the ignition switch has to go to the same number as the burner. The burners aren't numbered but can be figured out easily. That means the first control..... for example ..... would be left rear or channel 1. The second control could be left front and channel 2. and so on.
 
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Old 08-28-19, 01:12 PM
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Updating and progress

I had an appliance repair person at my house (for something embarrassingly easy to fix ... but alas the wife) ... anyway .... to get my money's worth, I asked about my burner.

He said I found all the correct pairs for my my spark module. He took a look and said the problem was that a few of the burners I had weren't making good contact with the caps as a repair had previously been attempted and the threads got stripped.

I bought some body burners (pa080075). I went to install them but I need to take off the black top to get to 2 screws holding the burner in. I'm going to have to remove the venturi tubes for all the burners (pa010100). What is my next step to lift the black top off? I have removed the front off and noticed 2 screws to hold in the side panels. I think if I can remove the side panels, the black top would slide out or can be lifted off. However, after removing a screw at the front for each side panel, I can't figure out how to remove it completely. Are there 2 screws at the back? I can't find any because I have a backguard. Will I have to completely remove the backguard to get at screws to remove the side panel to then remove the black top?

When I lifted my griddle, there's a metallic wire going to the bottom of the griddle. Is that a temperature probe that I can just pull out and reinsert later?

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 08-28-19, 06:05 PM
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That would probably be a small metal tube and does sound like the thermostat probe.

I'm not sure how your unit comes apart. I usually just check out all the side for possible screws.
In the link below is the exploded views. It may help.

VGRT 482-6G exploded views (pdf)
 
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Old 08-30-19, 10:09 AM
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Thanks for the advice.

I have the model before the slight revision (hence the "after" date in the linked file. The file I have didn't show any screw placements for that section but I'm guessing there are screws at the back which means I'll have to take off the backguard to get to them.
 
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Old 07-03-20, 10:14 PM
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Update

Just wanted to update that I have completed repairs to my range. If I had to do it again, I'd rather buy a good used upscale range and just replace the whole unit and try to get as much value as possible for the old one.

I did end up having to remove the backsplash to get to screws to get the side trim pieces off, allowing me to remove the top cooktop to replace venturi tubes. This meant I had to inch my range forward a bit to get to screws at the back. The range isn't bolted down to anything but a shim was used to level it so I had to make sure the range was level again. I did have to remove all 6 venturi caps to remove the cooktop which risked damaging each cap as well as each body burner ... and some did get damaged so I had to replace those as well (the special wrench to remove the caps is highly recommended). Also one of the screws required an extractor to get out. Plus, some of the wiring needed to be replaced.

Like I said, would have been easier to buy a good replacement and just replace the whole unit. I had my eye on a newer Viking model on ebay that would have been with it. The extra expense would have been worth my time savings.
 
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Old 07-03-20, 10:20 PM
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You certainly had your hands full. Thanks for stopping back and letting us know how you made out.
 
 

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