Whirlpool dryer not heating - no glow on ignitor

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Old 12-17-18, 03:11 PM
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Whirlpool dryer not heating - no glow on ignitor

Whirlpool Gas Dryer: WGD4800XQ4

Hello All,

My Whirlpool Gas Dryer is no longer heating and the igniter will not glow.

Here are the steps I took:

1. Replaced the Thermal Fuse - Multi-meter test good
2. Replaced the thermostat next to the thermal fuse. Multi-meter test good
3. Replaced both solenoid vlaves. Multi-meter test good.
4. Today just replaced the igniter, and the thermal sensor.

Igniter will not glow and no heat.

I am at a loss to say the least. Please assist. The dryer is 5.5 years old. I do have a bad support roller but do not want to replace until it is heating.

Thank you,

Aaron
 
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Old 12-17-18, 03:29 PM
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Replaced the thermostat was that part #16 in this diagram under bukkhead?
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/mod...8/0151200.html. All the parts you named should should continuity, If open they are bad. In console there should be a tech sheet with wiring diagram. I have a much older dryer like yours mine shows a hi limit thermostat that is not re settable which is a common problem. It is usually located on the upper back of burner. Been a long time since I have worked on one so location could be wrong.
I think the the hi limit thermostat is in back on top of the tube from burner to dryer inlet. Had to think about it for awhile.
 
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Old 12-17-18, 04:29 PM
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There will be two wires and a plug coming from inside the machine and connecting to the gas assembly. When those two wires have 120vAC on them..... the gas burner will light. So check them for power. Since you probably have the machine open during servicing.... make sure the gas is turned off.

The link below should be a very similar setup to your dryer. I have the same basic gas dryer and they're all pretty much the same when it comes to limit parts.

Tech sheet: JOB AID 8178629 (pdf)
 
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Old 12-17-18, 04:39 PM
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Page 4/13 is the hi limit thermostat it is the upper one in picture. I have same one but electric.
 
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Old 12-17-18, 05:14 PM
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Hi pugsl:

No I replaced the dryer operating thermostat... Part #9 in the diagram. Part Number 3387134.

Thanks,

Aaron
 
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Old 12-17-18, 05:23 PM
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Hi,

I just did another continuity OHMs resistance test on both parts # 15, and 16. Both show 0 ohms resistance.

Thanks,

Aaron
 
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Old 12-17-18, 05:39 PM
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Quick question for my own understanding, just because a component has 0 or whatever rated OHMs resistance, does that mean it is working?? Question that has been in my head since I have been working on this.

Thanks, I never bring this stuff here unless I have exhausted all other options. Appreciate the help.

Aaron
 
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Old 12-17-18, 06:19 PM
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Limit and cycling switches are normally closed devices. Technically they should measure as 0 ohms or a dead short but due to some test lead resistance you may see several ohms.
 
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Old 12-17-18, 08:26 PM
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Thank you. How do I solve this?
 
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Old 12-17-18, 09:02 PM
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Did you locate the plug that connects the burner assembly to the dryer ?
I check for 120vAC there. If it's there..... your problem is in the burner section.
If there's no power.... it's not getting there from the dryer.

For testing...... the door switch needs to be jumped, no tub, no gas. You need the motor to run as the gas burner comes thru it. No motor = no gas burner.

In the diagram below.... ( this is in the manual link I posted) the orange path is 120v hot. The gray is the neutral side. The two red dots are that plug down by the gas burner.

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Old 12-18-18, 03:06 AM
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In diagram there is a heater relay. This is a known part failure. Don't know how many I have changed. In heat it should show 120 volts on both wires to ground. Relay is in control panel. There usually are 2 and heat one is on left side.If relay is good than control board.
 
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Old 12-18-18, 07:14 AM
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OK here we go. I multi-metered all connections. Here is what I found.

Just for clarification in my notes below... the orange wire in the diagram is blue in my machine. I did find the neutral on the side of the motor.

1. Checked the blue to the 2 prong Solenoid valve. 120v good
2. Checked the black wire to the Igniter. 120v good
3. Checked the blue wire to the flame sensor. 120v good
4. Checked the blue wire to the 3 prong Solenoid valve. NOTHING
5. Checked the black wire to the 3 prong Solenoid valve. 120v good

Thanks for reading. please let me know what you think.

Aaron
 
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Old 12-18-18, 07:20 AM
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And thanks for the diagram and the responses. Very helpful!

Aaron
 
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Old 12-18-18, 07:55 AM
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You're making your measurement tests to the neutral wire (red dot) not ground..... correct ?

If you do have power then the flame sensor isn't closed. That needs to be shorted until it detects the hot igniter and then opens to let the valves open. .
 
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Old 12-18-18, 08:00 AM
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Attached Pictures

Please see the attached pictures. I was using the wire on the side of the motor as the neutral. It is Blue in the picture.

Is that correct??

Thanks,

Aaron
 
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Old 12-18-18, 08:03 AM
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So is the new flame sensor that I replaced bad?? The igniter never glows. How would I short it for testing? Thanks again!
 
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Old 12-18-18, 08:06 AM
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The burner is fed by a red and blue wire. The blue we know is 120v. That leaves the red as neutral. In most dryers there is a two pin plug where that tape is where all the colors connect. I've never seen the wiring spliced like that. That may be something done in later models.
 
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Old 12-18-18, 08:12 AM
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I think I understand now. So the blue wire is 120v and the red wire is the neutral correct? If that is the case I will run the tests again using the red as neutral. Thank you for helping me.
 
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Old 12-18-18, 08:16 AM
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Yes..... that is correct.
 
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Old 12-18-18, 08:26 AM
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Ok so I placed one side of the multi-meter in the black wire on the three prong valve solenoid. That black wire is spliced from the red and is neutral. I then touched the other end of the multi-meter to the blue wire on the flame sensor, NO Voltage. I did the same for the igniter. NO Voltage. Then touched the blue wire in the valve solenoid. NO Voltage.
 
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Old 12-18-18, 08:31 AM
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Please let me know if there is another test I can try and your thoughts. Thank you!
 
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Old 12-18-18, 08:54 AM
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Switch

Do you think this is the problem?

Thanks,

Aaron
 
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Old 12-18-18, 09:05 AM
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Ok..... so no voltage from red to blue. Yet you measured 120v previously on the blue wire so we can assume that was measured to ground ?

If yes...... you aren't getting switched neutral from the motor switch.
The motor is running.....correct ? It needs to be.
The white wire should be switched to the red wire when the motor is running.

In re-reading it looks like you were measuring to the white motor wire.
 
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Old 12-18-18, 09:08 AM
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I just tested the part in the picture. The heat switch.

Touched the multi-meter to the bottom right two connections one at a time and the other side to the ground in the control panel. Did this for about sixty seconds on high and medium heat.

No voltage.

Is that the problem then? I sent you an amazon list of the same part I just tested.

Thanks again for all the help!

Aaron
 
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Old 12-18-18, 09:11 AM
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Yeah in the previous test I tested to the blue wire on the side of the motor... assuming that is ground. In the more recent test I used the red as neutral and blue as 120v and got nothing.

See the switch test I just did... think that may be the problem.
 
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Old 12-18-18, 09:12 AM
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So that were aren't hopping around...... if you have power on the blue wire at the burner....... that means all limits and switches are ok and the burner should be running. So we're troubleshooting a neutral loss.

In your picture with your meter...... those two wires near the meter.... red and blue.... are the ones we're concerned with.
 
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Old 12-18-18, 09:15 AM
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I did test for AC not DC... is that correct for the switch in the pic?
 
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Old 12-18-18, 09:18 AM
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It looks like 48vDC is being used there.
 
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Old 12-18-18, 09:18 AM
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So when I tested with the red as neutral and blue as hot, i did not have any power at the burner.

It was only when I tested blue at the burner and touched the other end of the multimeter to the blue wire on the side of the motor that I saw 120v. but I think that is an invalid test since I wasnt using the neutral red.

Sorry for jumping around.
 
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Old 12-18-18, 09:20 AM
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Ok..... let's start again. Check from the blue wire that goes to the burner to ground (metal frame).
Do you have 120vAC ?
 
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Old 12-18-18, 09:28 AM
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Thank you for your patience!

No I do not have power.

Here is what I tested.

1. Touched one end to the blue wire on the flame sensor. Other end to ground. Nothing.
2. Touched one end to the blue wire on both solenoid valves, other end to ground. Nothing.
 
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Old 12-18-18, 09:31 AM
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One question, how long does the dryer need to be running before doing a test with the multi-meter? Just want to make sure my test is valid.
 
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Old 12-18-18, 09:45 AM
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Ran that test for over 60 seconds
 
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Old 12-18-18, 10:06 AM
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One minute should be enough.

Ok.... so the problem is not in the burner. This dryer uses an electronic control. Using the diagram.... you need to check for incoming 120vAC on the red (to ground) and 48vDC on the two red/white wires that go to the heat relay.

There are three problem areas...... the timer. the heat relay, the electronic control board. You may have to put the dryer into diagnostic mode so that it can check the controller. It's shown in that manual.

 
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Old 12-18-18, 10:49 AM
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Diagram

Here is my actual diagram. Was getting confused with the colors.

So I tested the following:

1. Turned on machine.
2. Disconnected temp plug and tested for 48vDC on the violet and Lt Blue wires. Nothing
3. Tested for 120AC on the red and lt blue wires coming from the A and B in the diagram. 120 AC successful.
4. Tested for 48vDC on the timer which goes to the temp selector. NOTHING
 
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Old 12-18-18, 11:09 AM
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Picture of Wiring

Here is a pic of the wiring.
 
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Old 12-18-18, 11:26 AM
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Just so I am sure, when you test for 48vDC does the other wire just go to the ground??
 
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Old 12-18-18, 01:05 PM
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Hi, I fixed it. Thank you for leading me to the answer.

I ended up removing the timer, opening it up and cleaning all the terminals. I now have 0 ohms between the red and black wire where as before I had infinity.

Thank you so much for all the help yesterday and today!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old 12-18-18, 09:27 PM
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Merry Christmas, Pete. God Bless you.
 
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