Kenmore gas oven wont heat.


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Old 03-14-19, 11:51 PM
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Kenmore gas oven wont heat.

790.70502013


I've done a bit of troubleshooting, and am still researching. Searched on this forum, but nothing jumped out at me.

Oven wont heat. Stovetop burners work. When I set it to bake, the igniter never glows.

Checked resistance of the disconnected igniter, and it showed 333 ohms.
Checked resistance of the disconnected gas safety valve, and it showed 0 ohms.

Is that an appropriate reading for the igniter? If not, any advice as to what I should test next? Should I test for voltage where the igniter plugs in?

Thanks for any help!

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Last edited by PJmax; 03-15-19 at 10:23 AM. Reason: resized pic and added closeup pic
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Old 03-15-19, 04:17 AM
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Moved post to gas.
..................
 
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Old 03-15-19, 10:29 AM
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There should be a tech sheet inside your range. It may be inside the back. The link below should be the same tech sheet and illustrate the wiring. The enlarged picture shows a yellow and white wire. The top wire is 120vAC hot when the oven should be on. The white is neutral.

The igniter should measure closer to 100 ohms..... should still glow but not start ignition.

Tech sheet.... 316441710 .......... Tech sheet link

I don't normally leave links posted so let me know when you've copied the link.
 
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Old 03-15-19, 02:54 PM
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Got the link, thanks!

I measured voltage at the junction where the igniter plugs in. With the oven OFF, not set to bake, it was reading 120vAC. If that is the appropriate reading with the oven off, then sounds like new igniter?

This is where I tested. Had one probe in the bottom terminal, and the other probe touching the bottom of the stove.
 
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Old 03-15-19, 03:27 PM
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Someone told me that is the wrong place to test for voltage, and that it needs to be done at the igniter... so disregard the previous post, I guess. Will report back later.
 
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Old 03-15-19, 03:37 PM
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When you check at that plug..... there should only be 120v there when the oven should be lit. Don't measure to ground as the 120v source may not be switched. It's a very basic circuit. You can check for 120v at the igniter when the burner should be on. That would tell you that the gas valve had continuity. Be careful not to short any wiring to ground or the valve can be damaged.

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Old 03-15-19, 04:31 PM
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Thanks.

This is a diagram of how it is wired. I had disconnected the plug, and had one probe in 2, and the other on the stove. That was reading 120vAC with the oven OFF.

Not sure how to test voltage on igniter terminals, if it is plugged in, as the wires at the igniter are hard wired into it. Can you test voltage by probing the part that glows with a multimeter, or do I need a different measuring device?



 
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Old 03-15-19, 05:37 PM
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When you measure 120v on terminal one and two.... the oven is on..... correct ?
You measures the resistance of the valve and it was 0..... correct ?
0 would mean a dead short...... or your meter would respond as a dead short.
The actual reading would depend on the setting your meter was on.

Plug it in. Measure from terminal two to where the igniter connects on the valve.
 
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Old 03-15-19, 10:20 PM
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When you measure 120v on terminal one and two.... the oven is on..... correct ?
I had the plug disconnected. I had one probe at 2, and the other probe was touching the bottom of the stove. The oven was OFF, and I was getting 120vAC. I thought it seemed odd that it had voltage, but I dont know. I double checked that it was off a couple times. Unless I missed something, it was off.

You measures the resistance of the valve and it was 0..... correct ?
I'll have to recheck the valve. I dont remember if I had it on continuity or resistance. Whichever one it was, it was 0.

Plug it in. Measure from terminal two to where the igniter connects on the valve.
When you said 'terminal 2', did you mean where I have it labeled 2?

So for testing the voltage, one probe should be at 2, and the other probe should be at 5, with everything plugged in, and the oven on. Is that correct?

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Old 03-16-19, 05:44 PM
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On the receptacle..... pin 1 is the neutral and pin 2 is the 120vac.
There should be 120vAC between 1 and 2 when oven is on.
There should be 120vAC between 3 and 4 when oven is on.
There should be 120vAC between 4 and 5 when oven is on.
If no voltage on 4 and 5..... the valve may be open.

You can measure the resistance across 5 and 6 with valve not connected.
 
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Old 05-02-19, 10:23 PM
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I just saw your last reply, PJ... thanks! Came back to this thread, because just now getting to this.

Got the new igniter, and the resistance measures 70 ohms, which is where it should be, I think. Put it in, and still didn't light up though.

I'm going to check the resistance of the safety valve tomorrow, and if it is good, I will check for voltage as you indicated.

I have a splice where the red line is, so I am going to hook everything up for normal operation, then just slide up the terminal at 5 a bit, and check between there and the splice to take the reading between 4 and 5, with oven ON.
 
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Old 05-07-19, 03:36 PM
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Ok, I checked resistance on the gas safety valve and it is only about 1 ohm, so that looks ok.


I turned the oven on, with the igniter plug disconnected, and did NOT get 120V AC between 1 and 2.


Here is a picture of the control panel.



Would the next step be to check voltage coming off of those pins?

Thanks!


Based on the tech sheet you provided earlier, this is the pin schematic. What pins should I check for AC with oven on? 6 and 4?
 
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Old 05-07-19, 03:59 PM
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Yes..... 6 is "oven on" 120v and 4 is neutral.

Not sure if you noticed..... when you click on the tech sheet link..... it's actually two pages. There is a full wiring diagram on page 2.
 
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Old 05-07-19, 04:52 PM
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Is there a way to test the voltage coming off the pins without having the wiring harness plugged in?

Or am I supposed to plug the harness in, and then try to make contact with the metal tabs on the bottom of the harness? Or is there a better way to test it with the wiring harness plugged in?

Looking for videos/discussion for methods on testing control boards, but not coming up with anything.
 
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Old 05-07-19, 05:28 PM
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I use microprobes and always check with the load connected.
You should be able to carefully slide your probes into the connector with the wiring pins.
 
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Old 05-07-19, 06:01 PM
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Thanks. I had some thin copper wire that I put into the harness and then left a few inches hanging out to probe.

Got 120V AC between 4 and 5, to confirm that that method worked.

Turned oven on and got nothing between 4 and 6. (It does click after I press bake, but no voltage shows up)

After this test, I cut the yellow wire to eliminate any wire issues on the stove side, and still got no voltage when the oven was on, between 4 and the yellow wire coming out of the harness (6).

Sounds like control board, correct?

I'm assuming fixing whatever that issue is might entail testing/soldering and all that, so I will probably just get another board, unless it could be a really easy troubleshoot fix on the board.
 
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Old 05-07-19, 06:43 PM
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If you hear a click then the relay is working on that board. If you like a challenge. Disconnect that board and check the pc board foils between the connection pins and the relay. You may spot a broken/burned foil. If not.... the relay contacts are most likely arced.
 
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Old 05-07-19, 09:02 PM
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Thanks, I might take a gander at it. If not, I'll just order one. I'll report back.
 
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Old 05-13-19, 01:41 PM
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Things are looking up... replaced the control panel, and am getting 120v AC between 1 and 2 now. That should fix the problem, but somewhere in the course of testing this, I lost one of the wires to the igniter (still looking for it).

If I can't find it, do you think HD/Lowes sells wiring rated for this heat, or will I need to order another igniter?

Might call an appliance repair shop and see if they have anything... I also have an old water heater pilot assembly that I think has the specially coated wiring on it.
 
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Old 05-13-19, 01:44 PM
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NM... found it a few minutes after I posted, lol. I'll report back after I get it all together.
 
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Old 05-13-19, 02:27 PM
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Replacing the control panel fixed it.

PJ, I really appreciate your help with this... made it a lot easier for me.

You've helped me out a bunch on different things over the years... if you have a paypal or something, I'd be glad to buy you lunch.
 
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Old 05-13-19, 03:52 PM
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Good job. Thanks for letting us know how you made out.
 
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