Kenmore dryer broken belt and mystery of missing idler pulley

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  #1  
Old 04-16-19, 07:49 AM
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Kenmore dryer broken belt and mystery of missing idler pulley

I purchased a Kenmore gas dryer 110.74812200 (width 29") along with a repair manual some 15 years ago. This past weekend I noticed a difference in the dryer sound from the usual. It appeared that the motor was running but the drum was not turning. I looked at the repair manual and also watched some youtube videos to look at disassembly procedures. In spite of watching these videos and taking note, the front panel did not come off gracefully and I ended up breaking the clip at the bottom, see attached pic. I also removed the drum and was able to see the broken belt. In addition, I noticed some type of bracket lying on the floor of the dryer, unattached to anything else, see top and side view pics attached. I'm also attaching a close-up of the motor and pulley. This area is somewhat dirty so I'll be cleaning it up.

Theoretically, replacing the belt is an easy procedure. However, this unattached bracket confounds me, so does the fact that I'm not finding an idler pulley elsewhere in my dryer. The repair manual and the videos show the replacement procedure involving the idler pulley. This does not match up with what I'm seeing in my dryer. Can someone tell me where the bracket goes and how do I deal with an absent idler pulley? The top (or bottom?) view of the bracket shows a semi-circular section which is shiny and slippery, suggesting that perhaps the belt is running across its surface, or am I jumping to the wrong conclusion?
 
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Old 04-16-19, 08:25 AM
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From the pictures it looks like you have an idler bracket vs an idler pulley!

Haven't repaired too many dryers but they all had pulley's, must be a cost savings that eventually cost the consumer more belt replacements!
 
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Old 04-16-19, 10:13 AM
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That idler pulley goes into the slots on the bottom of dryer. I don't know how you broke the bracket to hold front on. I have take at least a couple of hundred of those dryers and never broken one. Part # 13 under bulkhead.
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/mod...0-dryers-parts
The bracket just slides i to the slots and the spring tension holds it in place. I was going to tell you to look at diagram as to how it goes but a very bad picture of it. I always put drum on rear rollers and work under it. Put belt around drum first and use belt as a handle to help put drum in.The belt goes through pulley, between bracket and pulley Will put tension on it when you pull it around motor pulley. Been awhile put pulley is on right side when in slots.Easy to do when you have done a lot.
 
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Old 04-16-19, 01:31 PM
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Yeah....saving on an actual roller was a big cost reduction. In the link is a video that illustrates the belt replacement operation. The dryer may not be the same as yours but the belt system is identical.

Dryer belt replacement
 
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Old 04-16-19, 02:39 PM
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I didn't see the bracket verses idler pulley. Eyes getting bad. that bracket is going to squeak after a while if it doesn't do it now. Idler pulley are cheap.
 
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Old 04-17-19, 12:31 PM
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In the video link I posted..... it showed the shoe style of idler. I would highly recommend replacing it with the actual pulley type although I'm still using one of those shoe styles on my dryer.
 
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Old 04-17-19, 06:39 PM
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Thank you guys for your replies. PJmax, your video reference was quite helpful. I will attempt to replace the shoe/slider type of idler with the pulley type. I did a search and found one on Amazon called Whirlpool 691366 idler pulley. See link below. The concern I have is that the size is advertised as 1.5 x 2.5 x 3.5 inches but my current slider idler is 2x7x2.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ilpage_o00_s00
 
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Old 04-18-19, 09:54 AM
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If it is listed for that dryer you should be ok. Same pulley used on many models.
 
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Old 04-19-19, 12:04 PM
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I posted a question on Amazon and one seller replied it will fit. So I'll give it a try.
 
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Old 05-10-19, 06:16 PM
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I was out of town for a while. The dryer repair and the parts I had ordered were waiting for me on my return. I was able to install the pulley (as opposed to the slider), belt and the 2 clips that had broken/deformed (see my initial post).

At this point, let me digress to talk about the clips. When disassembling, one is supposed to pull the top of the front panel forward slightly and lift it up. When I had tried this, the panel did not release so I kept moving the top of the front panel forward so it to break it free. This process ended up breaking one clip and deforming the other. So I ordered 2 new clips and put them back into place. I noticed that the metal section on the front panel containing the holes had also deformed slightly. I used a hammer to straighten out the sheet metal the best I could. I was able to insert the front panel holes into the new clips. However, what I noticed was that the gap between the front panel and the remaining frame was greater at the bottom than at the top, when viewed from the side. I'm attaching pics showing the top and bottom together, top only and bottom only. It may not look significant in the pics but it is evident to the naked eye. Should I be concerned?

After I put everything together, I started up the dryer. The main issue is fixed, namely with a new belt the drum rotates. However, the issue I'm encountering now is that I hear a thud sound once per every revolution of the drum, as if something is striking another part during the revolution. How can I fix this issue?

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Last edited by PJmax; 05-10-19 at 07:14 PM. Reason: reoriented pics
  #11  
Old 05-10-19, 07:17 PM
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If I'm not mistaken..... the bottom slips in and there are two screws holding the top in place.
Are those two screws tight ?

My dryer makes the same noise after replacing the motor and belt. That sound you hear is the belt hitting the indentation (shelf) in the drum. Not sure how to get rid of it. It doesn't bother me.
 
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Old 05-11-19, 04:14 AM
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There is a seam where the drum is welded together. I would bet the noise was there before you worked on it. Now that you did a repair you are more aware of noises. Have been on many service calls for this noise. Not to much can be done, Sometimes a new drum will be a little quieter.
I use a thin putty knife to push clips back to open top.
 
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Old 05-14-19, 07:21 AM
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PJmax, you're correct, the front panel hangs on the hooks built into the clips at the bottom, while the top is held by 2 screws. The top screws are in place and tight.

pugsl, I had also used a putty knife to push clips back to open the top. The issue I had encountered was with the bottom clips because the front panel did not cleanly lift off. Now that I'm aware of the exact mechanism and the geometry of how it is held together, it won't be an issue for me in the future.

Thank you both for explaining that this per revolution thud might be normal. Yes, it may even have existed before. The reason it caught my attention after the repair was because I tried running the dryer with the door open while manually depressing the door switch to close the electrical circuit. Under such conditions, the noise/thud appeared to be louder so I thought it was a new noise. When the door is closed, this noise is much softer and muted. So, I'll let it ride and continue using the dryer.
 
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