I thought maybe the heating element went out on my Amana NED7200TW dryer, but after taking it apart the element shows continuity with my meter and don't see any breaks. The larger sensor has continuity but the smaller one does not. Any thoughts?

 

All should show continuity. The open one is bad. It is the hi limit thermostat. After you replace it clean the vent to the outside. Can tell you it is partially clogged.

 

I will order that part if i can find it, I did clean the vent back in September, but will check it again

 

Also forgot to add about a loud buzzing noise I heard the other day when the dryer was near the end of the cycle. I really couldn't tell where inside the dryer it was coming from. I did read online https://www.applianceblog.com/mainfo...-Dryer-No-HEATwhere the big relay on the circuit board goes bad and you loose heat. Any way to test the relay?

 

Part 15 under buckhead in diagram
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/mod...0-dryers-parts
Just google original part # and first site I came with had it for 5.00$
Called a thermo fuse on chart Part# 15 under bulkhead 5.00$
Turn dryer on in heat use vole meter on both sides of relay 0 volts is good 240 or 120 forgot which means relay is open.

 

So after replacing the hi limit thermostat and checking the vent to make sure it wasn't plugged, We got two loads of laundry dried and now no heat again. The new hi limit thermostat is now bad too... any ideas why? Is the hi limit thermostat a one time fuse or should it reset?

 

Did you replace both thermostats? Thermostat is a one time use, no reset. Try running dryer without vent connected or get a flexible and run it out window. Room will get hot and damp. Did you crush vent when you pushed dryer back in place? I am talking about vent because 99% of dryer problems are started with vent.
You could do this today, Disconnect vent and feel air flow at back of dryer, should be about same.

 

No I just replaced the high limit fuse and two 12 gauge wires connected to it and the other sensor because the wire insulation was brittle near the connectors. I cleaned the vent run and did not crush the flexible vent hose between the wall ant the dryer. I did check for air flow and temp outside when I first started it up again, all seemed normal. I may try two new sensors and a new heating element but don't want to waste money if its something else. My question is What controls the temperature? ( what regulates electricity to the heating element) Is it the circuit board or does the High Limit Thermostat regulate electricity to the element? Or is always on when calling for heat? (no regulating)
Thanks for the help

 

Before you throw any more parts you need to know if dryer is getting to hot. Put a thermometer in outlet duct of dryer. Do this with vent connected and disconnected. The temp should be between 150 and 165. and cycle down to around 120 to 100. This should happen both ways. If the temperatures Get hotter with vent connected still need vent work. also it will cycle a lot faster with a clogged vent. High temps are controlled by the other thermostat. This one is a cycling one.
If you are thinking of getting both thermostats and heater coil they sell a complete assy. with all of those parts for about the same price. It is a real pain in a** to replace heater. I see you have opened heater so you know what I am talking about.

 

I will bypass the high limit and get a temperature this weekend, We went ahead and bought a new dryer...I would like to keep this one in my cellar for work clothes. I have a thermo camera but my temp sensor for my ohm meter is inop. will report back when I can, thanks for your input