Old ge dryer stopped working.
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Old ge dryer stopped working.
Yesterday it worked fine, today it doesn’t start.
the sticker says it’s model number is DBXR453GT5WW.
Dial operated turn key style switch to start. Gas is fine. Outlet has power. So that was the low hanging fruit. Any idea where to look next?
the sticker says it’s model number is DBXR453GT5WW.
Dial operated turn key style switch to start. Gas is fine. Outlet has power. So that was the low hanging fruit. Any idea where to look next?
#2
Is it completely dead....... nothing.... not even a light inside comes on ?
There are three limit switches in the rear of the drum. If you open the link below..... click on DRUM. The parts you are interested in are.....
#505 - WE4M182 - hi limit stat.
#507 - WE4M0181 - cycling stat.
#530 - WE4M80 - hi limit stat.
More than likely you'll find 505 or 530 open. All three should measure as shorted. The dryer will still rotate if the middle one is defective. Typically the limit opens when it overheats from lack of airflow. The dryer itself and it's associated ductwork should be cleaned annually.
A defective door switch will also render the dryer dead if it goes bad.
Sears Parts Direct link
There are three limit switches in the rear of the drum. If you open the link below..... click on DRUM. The parts you are interested in are.....
#505 - WE4M182 - hi limit stat.
#507 - WE4M0181 - cycling stat.
#530 - WE4M80 - hi limit stat.
More than likely you'll find 505 or 530 open. All three should measure as shorted. The dryer will still rotate if the middle one is defective. Typically the limit opens when it overheats from lack of airflow. The dryer itself and it's associated ductwork should be cleaned annually.
A defective door switch will also render the dryer dead if it goes bad.
Sears Parts Direct link
#3
If you take it apart mark the door switch wires. Some of the earlier ones the wires will go on any of the lugs. Real pain to get them right. All repairs are done from front.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Ok so I have no continuity between the two terminals on the door switch (with the door closed so that’s probably my problem right?
Is is there any problem that could come from jumping the switch to check if it works otherwise?
Is is there any problem that could come from jumping the switch to check if it works otherwise?
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Ok, it works, so the switch was what’s bad, but now it makes a squeaking noise it did not make before. I’m assuming the cause of that is something I did while taking it apart. Any ideas what it could have been?
edit: no squeaks when hand turning the drum
edit: no squeaks when hand turning the drum
#7
It could be the belt, the tensioner, one of the idler pulleys in the back.
Pretty hard to tell without being there.
Pretty hard to tell without being there.
#8
Member
Thread Starter
I opened it back up, poked randomly at parts like a mentality impaired chimpanzee and then put it back together again and it now no longer squeaks.
The simplicity of how this machine came apart, the slack in the wiring that lets you open things up fully without disconnecting and the clear no more than high school-shop complexity of all the electrical connections makes this thing a damn pleasure to work on.
Reminds me of the difference between working on my ‘76 Lincoln and my ‘01 BMW.
The simplicity of how this machine came apart, the slack in the wiring that lets you open things up fully without disconnecting and the clear no more than high school-shop complexity of all the electrical connections makes this thing a damn pleasure to work on.
Reminds me of the difference between working on my ‘76 Lincoln and my ‘01 BMW.