Dryer Door Switch - Help With Bypass

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Old 06-14-19, 07:56 PM
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Dryer Door Switch - Help With Bypass

Hi all,

My 1989 Kitchenaid (Whirlpool) KGYE900S dryer has a faulty door switch. When I depress the metal actuator through the door frame I hear the switch "click" and the drum light goes out, but I have to press further to a finicky "magic spot" to engage power to motor, and I can't manage to adjust the actuator to maintain this magic spot.

I'd gladly replace it (FSP 691361) but it's not longer made and not in stock anywhere, despite extensive web searching.

Since it's just my wife and me and we are aware of safety risks, I'd like to bypass the switch...but don't know where to insert a jumper (or otherwise bypass). All the YouTube videos for bypass a door switch seem to show a different type.

Picture below. Two wires (red, navy) on left; three wires (red, orange, gray) on right.

Any help appreciated. Soggy clothes standing by!

Greg
 
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Old 06-15-19, 01:57 AM
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In the console there may be a wiring diagram. If not un plug one wire and see if that stops dryer. If you have a ohm meter you than can find the other sid of switch goes closed when door is closed. Other wise you will have to unplug each wire on other side till dryer will not run.
Check model# inside door as your one does not work.
PS Dryer model and part number do not look right.
 
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Old 06-15-19, 10:50 AM
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Your model number is KGYE900SWH1.
Your tech sheet is LIT3387420.

I could not find a copy of the tech sheet anywhere. You will need to locate the wiring diagram in your machine. Typically it's on the rear access door. Then we can help you with that switch wiring.

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Old 06-17-19, 07:49 AM
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Hey guys, I got called away for the weekend but I'm back and will locate that wiring diagram today and post it. PJmax, your picture is my switch!

More to come. Thank you.
 
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Old 06-17-19, 12:49 PM
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Found the Wiring Diagram

Okay gents, found the wiring diagram tucked away in the console. Pretty nice booklet; printed on Tyvek to last.

If I'm reading it correctly, I need to jump the door switch in order to connect wires connected at D1 and D3; in other words, connect the dark blue and orange wires.

Correct?

Naturally I will lose ability to light up the drum light (red wire at D4).

Unrelated topic: Looking at the diagram it appears the door switch, when closed, connects ground to the control board (between D2 and D5). Why would they make the ground switchable?
 
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Old 06-17-19, 02:12 PM
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Why would they make the ground switchable?
Excellent question. Possibly as a backup safety shutdown.
I was wondering why there were so many wires on that switch.
 
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Old 06-17-19, 02:52 PM
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It is a "ground" to the low voltage transformer (may may also be an earth ground). The door switch and the sensors are causing the electronics to go high-low for control.
 
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Old 06-17-19, 06:35 PM
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As I look further..... typically the door switch interrupts all power to the dryer. In this case the primary contacts are the motor only and the secondary contacts are a negative pulldown on pin DS. Still a rare type of switching compared to newer dryers.
 
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Old 06-18-19, 06:55 AM
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Well I jumped D1 to D3 and surprisingly, the door switch now works reliably to interrupt the motor, and the drum light stays out. I need to completely follow the orange and red wires to be sure I understand where the heck they go. At least the dryer runs!
 
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Old 06-18-19, 08:45 AM
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Does the dryer stop when you open door? That maybe the only problem you have.
 
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Old 06-18-19, 01:15 PM
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Yes, now the dryer stops with door open and restarts properly when closed. Looking at the diagram (above) I think all the jump did was "close" the N.O. light contact! I'll figure it out when I have time. Of course, what I want for Xmas is a new (used) switch!
 

Last edited by gregger77; 06-18-19 at 01:18 PM. Reason: Accuracy
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