Gas range igniters work, but 2 knobs do not (Caloric)

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Old 10-11-19, 11:11 AM
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Gas range igniters work, but 2 knobs do not (Caloric)

Hello,

I bought a house with a Caloric gas range, and immediately noticed two burners on the rights side of the range did not light. I imagined it must be the fault of the igniter. However, when lifting the top of the range to take a look, I discovered that the left side knobs control both igniters, and I could light the right side burners using the left side knobs. Okay -- that's a pain, but at least all four burners and both igniters work. But it would be nice if the right side knobs operated the igniters as well.

So, I assume all four knobs should activate both igniters. But what could disconnect both knobs on the right side? A single loose or rusted connection that ties those knobs to one central terminal?
 
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Old 10-11-19, 05:13 PM
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Going to be a tough one here. Caloric parts are few and far between.

The stove uses a switch on each burner control shaft to activate the spark module. All burners spark at the same time. It sounds like the switches on the burner control shaft are disconnected or broken. You'd need to take apart the stove to get to the switches. You could pull one or possibly get the part number off of it and post it.
 
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Old 10-14-19, 06:58 AM
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I checked both the connections under each knob and also at the control panel on the back of the range. They feel tight and look brand new. The only place I haven't checked is where the four knobs' wires connect to get to the panel. There's a bundle of wires under the front panel and its difficult to tell what's going on. That must be the place where there's trouble. Still, it must be a problem going way back, because the right side of the stove is quite clean compared to the left side. The previous owner must have just done most cooking on the left side and for a long time.
 
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Old 10-15-19, 07:13 AM
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Well, I learned the hard way (shock) that the hot wire heading into the knob is live, so the problem is with the knob itself. The neutral wire connection looks as good as the hot wire's. Naturally, the knob is the most difficult thing to fix, since it controls the gas line as well as the igniter. Bummer.
 
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Old 10-15-19, 11:38 AM
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The hardest part is getting the panel off in front of the knobs. The switches should all be in parallel.
There really isn't much to the spark switch. The new switches are very similar to the old ones and many can be swapped. Once you have one out.... it shouldn't be too hard to locate a similar part.
 
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Old 10-15-19, 02:49 PM
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Do you have a wiring diagram for this unit?

The reason I ask is that some units use two spark modules instead of one.
 
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Old 10-15-19, 02:56 PM
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Nah.... this is an old Caloric.
The OP has already mentioned that all the burners are sparking.

This is a generic replacement video that may be of some help although if I remember correctly.... the Caloric is not a sealed top unit which means the stove top may just easily hinge up for service.
Spark switch replacement
 
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Old 10-16-19, 11:45 AM
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Yes, it lifts up for service and the front panel is bolted into place with two bolts on either side, or so it appears. I don't recall seeing any other bolts in the middle affixing the panel, though it seems very tight. I hope it comes off and lifts straight up, over the knob pins.

I was hoping to hear news that such a common-garden-variety-looking piece of hardware should, in fact, be so. Partselect offers the switch to fit a Caloric at $46,50 though their parts always seem pricey. Still, cheaper than a new stove. Thanks for the info & video.
 
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Old 10-16-19, 08:29 PM
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Please post a picture if you can once it's out. You may not need to buy the Caloric switch. I carry several in my toolbox that fit many appliances. If you can't post a picture..... post all the numbers you see on it. How-to-insert-pictures.
 
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Old 10-19-19, 11:53 AM
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Now then, here is a photo of the switch, with part #8604. Is that familiar?
 
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Old 10-19-19, 12:04 PM
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8604 is the date code....... April 1986.

That's a Whirlpool switch..... WP4157180.
Still available. Search around for best price.
 
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Old 10-21-19, 11:42 AM
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That's great news! Thanks!
 
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Old 11-03-19, 08:25 PM
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Greetings!

Well, I got my new switches in the mail and installed them. The two burners work! Thanks for helping me with that!

Now I have another issue, namely, with the oven. In this case, its the gas fixture itself that's malfunctioned. The knob does not turn at all. But before I intend to play with that, I'd like to turn off the gas to the stove. The valve on the gas line in the basement is rusted shut. I cannot move it and do not wish to force it. I do not wish to shut off the main gas line because that will turn off the furnace and water heater and those are a pain to restart. Is there a shut off on the stove itself?

I took a photo of a device which connects the gas line to the burner feed. Is this a shut off valve on the stove?

And photo beneath it is the oven knob, which clearly shows the part number.

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Last edited by PJmax; 11-04-19 at 06:33 PM. Reason: resized pictures
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Old 11-04-19, 06:40 PM
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No.... that's the pressure regulator. No shut off there. There should be one behind the stove.

No info found on the gas valve.
What's the model number of the stove ?
 
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Old 11-04-19, 08:52 PM
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Ah yes. I found the manual for the range, and indeed that's a pressure regulator. The model number is RLD358-UL. I hope oven gas valve is common for Caloric or Whirlpool products like the electrical part was.

The gas shutoff valve is in the basement, immediately below the range. From what an old thread on this forum says, it is a "grease valve" for certainly there is grease to be seen. However, it does not wish to turn. Its above my head, which makes it even more uncomfortable to deal with. What might help to close this kind of valve? WD-40? Or does that thin the grease and threaten to release gas?
 
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Old 11-05-19, 08:36 AM
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Sprays won't help. There is a nut on the opposite side of the valve that you could loosen slightly until the valve is freed up.
 
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Old 11-15-19, 09:08 AM
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I haven't had any luck finding a replacement for the oven gas valve, pictured here (and above). I wonder if this is a candidate for retrofitting? There are two gas lines leading from the valve into the oven and, though they are inflexible tubes, still give a little. Is retrofitting a job for professionals or can an amateur such as myself handle it?
 
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Old 11-15-19, 08:43 PM
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Could it be retrofitted..... possibly. Could you do it...... not likely.
It wouldn't be an easy job for me either.

You need to know what valves are available. You need to know current valve specs. There are three connection lines..... two gas lines.... the larger one goes to the burner and the smaller goes to the pilot. The very small line is the thermostat sensor line.

There are a few antique stove sites online. I would check with them for assistance on the valve.
 
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