please help opening/debugging Thermador Pro and igniters
Hi, I can really use your help to fix the igniters on our “Thermador Professional” 6-burner gas cooktop.
The house we moved into has an old gas cooktop, 6 burners. I've looked everywhere for a model number and I cannot find it, but you can see how it looks in the attached photos.
Gas flows normally to all burners and I can light them all with a match.
The front and back burners share a single igniter, so there are 3 igniters.
The igniter can start all the back burners normally.
But on two of the front burners the igniter will not light the gas... there is no clicking sounds and the igniter does not spark.
Since front/back share the same igniter, the igniter itself is obviously fine, so it must be some problem with the controls.
I was hoping to get in the front panel open to see the controls and trying swapping some wires to isolate the problem.
But i have two problems:
1. I cannot the front panel open! There are two screws on each side of the front panel, which i removed, but the panel does not budget. OK, it's an old cooktop with lots of sticky stuff, so probably I need to use some force. But I'm afraid to use too much force and bend something. Can anybody help me understand how do I get into the front panel to check (and eventually replace) the controls?
2. Once I'm in the front panel I'm not sure how to debug this. (which wires to swap or if there is something better to try.) As I see looking through the grease pan slot, there are some blue boxes and then the controls that the knobs are connected to. What should I test? I have a voltmeter so I can easily check voltage, continuity, etc.
I work on an occasional Thermador range.... rarely just a cooktop. I see the newer version but not yours.
The burner grates are different. I can't find a listing for yours. I need your model number.
New cooktop..... PCG366W
The ID tag should be in the section below the burners. Pick up the grates and see if you can lift the cover up.
In the link is ID help but may not help much for yours.
I have a Master Forge (bg179a along with a bg179b and bg179c all matching units) The grill (bg179a) was set up to use natural gas. I have moved and only have propane (LP gas) available. I would like to convert the grill to use propane. The manual discusses how to go from LP to natural gas, but not the reverse. Also, finding the conversion kit is proving difficult. I have emailed the Master Forge web site and have not received a response. I also talked with BBQguys site and while they have a number of conversion kits, Master Forge is not one of them. They indicated that each manufacturer had unique kits for their units. I like this grill and would like to keep it. It will be pretty expensive to replace it just to burn LP. Can you suggest another source for the conversion kit or a kit that will work fine on this unit? Also, can I just get burner tubes with orifices for LP that will be replacements for this grill? Could I then just add
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a hose and regulator and make it work? Other options or thoughts?
Hi all,
Our GE gas slide-in range, JGS760DEL (1WW for white on white) has done a good job until the past few months, when temperature control has been erratic. In my diagnosis....
[list]
[*]I have done testing with a freshly cleaned, empty oven (its temperature probe squeaky clean) with a "known good" oven thermometer set on the center rack.
[*]I used Convection mode with "multi-rack recipe adjustment" turned OFF.
[*]Several temperature values were collected over a period of 30 minutes and averaged (with a bit of rounding) to provide the Actual temperatures for 6 different setpoints:
[/list]
Set 300; Actual 275 (-25)
Set 350; Actual 330 (-20)
Set 375; Actual 360 (-15)
Set 400; Actual 425 (+25)
Set 425; Actual 450 (+25)
Set 450; Actual 500 (+50)
The range's digital control panel has an Offset feature to correct a temperature gap, but obviously I can [b]only [/b]use it to correct for either a negative or positive difference and not both.
I am not the least bit familiar with this oven's temperature control mechanism. I just know it used to work better than it's working now.
Do you have any any advice on what part to troubleshoot/repair/replace? My wife is ready to call out the [b]real[/b] appliance guy (and that ain't me!)
Many thanks.