The Home Depot delivery guys looked at the gas pipe coming out from the back wall of the laundry closet and said "you need a gas line shut off valve." We just moved into this house and it's my first time experiencing a "gas" dryer so I had no idea what this meant.
Laundry Closet (above)
The gas pipe (right in above picture) is capped and about a foot away (on the wall), there is plug with a square head (left in pic above, also pic below). It feels plastic and the label says "cleanout" so I'm thinking it's the cleanout for the washer drain pipes, nothing to do with the gas line.
The gas pipe protrudes from the wall exactly 4" and is capped. The pipe itself is 1" across. Would the gas need to be shut off from the outside main if I wanted to work on this?
Also, what kind of fitting will work on this to accommodate a standard gas dryer installation kit that normally comes with a 5/8" OD gas connector and some fittings (1/2" and 3/4" male pipe thread)?
Typically 1/2" gas line is run. It would be .85" OD.
3/4" gas line would be 1.05".
You'd probably need to turn the gas off at the meter.
You'd need to reduce from 3/4" to 1/2". At the 90 would be a good place.
The 1/2" nipple will connect the valve to the 90.
The 1/2" dryer kit comes with all the fittings to go from the valve to any dryer.
This is just one idea. There are other ways it can be done.
You'll need a small can of pipe dope compound for sealing the pipe threads.
Most jurisdictions and insurers require gas work to be done by a licensed professional (plumber, gas fitter.j. Very experienced DIYers might risk doing it but from your description I do not think you should try it. Be safe and use Pj’s info to be knowledgeable when finding a professional to do the work.
The only question I have, will the extra fittings protrude from the wall too far to allow a nice fit for the dryer?
That 3/4 pipe should've been a 1/2 IPS so that a valve could be attached directly. If you have a professional, do it, have them remove the 3/4 father back to a 1/2 pipe.
Or attach a 3/4 gas valve and reduce at the valve to the standard gas line kit.
Thanks folks. I thought I had post reply email notification but apparently not. Yes, not something I was going to atte.pt on my own until I knew what was behind the wall. Luckily, the contractor that worked on.this house before we purchased it was willing to add the valve for me (he didn't understand why one wasn't I stalled - it apparently wasn't him that finished this pipe). he did go with a shorter nipple and a 90 elbow to a reducing value e 3/4 to 1/2 or similar so the standard ga line from a dryer can fit directly. But I appreciate all the info you guys provided. It was a good learning experience and made it easier to converse with the plumber "intelligently" in his language. Thanks again. I suspect i will be coming back here often to learn from you all.One thing I discovered unfortunately is that this closet is only 33" deep with the doors closed. That's not enough depth to accommodate the typical dryers and washers when you take into account the clearance needed for the vent, etc.
The on/off and temperature control knob of my gas oven became harder and harder to move. I was unable to pull it off to clean it so I tried using pliers to pull it off. This caused a whoosh of flame underneath the stovetop. I was able to shut it off, finally, but a few days later I found the center of the front of the top of the stove, just above the oven control knob, was very hot. I could see a small flame, like a pilot light, under the stovetop.
By turning the knob "more off", whatever was leaking under there stopped leaking and this unwanted "pilot" was snuffed out. Another few days went by with no issues (aside from being unable to use the oven), then I found that flame on again, bigger and hotter. It had caused the control knob to soften enough that it was easy to turn, and I turned it past "off" and again the flame was extinguished.
Well now I am not comfortable having any gas going to that stove at all until I can fix whatever has gone wrong under there. What should I be looking for under there?
Referring to Model #ZGW125EN1SS. Having a hard time finding anything out about his unit. There are two issues. #1 The ignitor clicks but does not ignite. It is getting gas as the owner uses a lighter to light it. Told him to clean out the little tiny pinhole feeding gas to the ignitor with a needle (if this unit has that little pinhole). Also suggested cleaning the ignitor contacts with a little contact cleaner and either fine sand paper or a brass brush. #2 A different Ignitor (than in issue #1) continues to click even when flame is on. Again, I informed him to try cleaning the ignitor. Its not so much diagnosing the issue that I need help with, unless someone has some other input to offer, I'd gladly except. What I'm looking for is part numbers for the ignitor or anything that may need to be replaced.