Fuse on gas stove?

Old 07-20-01, 07:12 PM
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I cannot find a fuse on my 3 yr old Kenmore gas stove as you mention in your replies. It has sealed burners and glow coil for oven. Took the glow coil to Sears Parts Store for replacement. They tested it and said it was OK. Asked if I wanted to buy new one for $41. I brought it back home for further troubleshooting. I assume there is no electricity getting to glow coil. Electricity is getting to stove as clock works and electonic switches work for top burners. Cannot find a fuse anywhere. What is size of the fuse? Does every stove have one? Where is it generally located? Thanks.

Old 07-20-01, 08:09 PM
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Hello Wakky

Since the oven uses a glow coil for ignition, there is a fuse located somewhere in the wiring system. Oven gas valves do not operate on full 120 volt houseline voltage.

The fuse is a 5 volt appliance fuse sold at appliance stores and it is not an ordinary fuse.

Usually you can locate the ovens gas valve by following the burners tube down or back to the gas valve. Then follow the two wires from the valve to locate the fuse box or holder.

Some models have a fuse clip holder hidden under a sheet metal cover while others use a black plastic holder with a finger screw cap. It may be located at the sparker module for the top burners.

Most often the fuse is located beneath the ovens bottom plate in the oven compartment, behind the stove near the gas inlet, under the stoves top cover where the electric cord enters, etc. If you removed the glow coil, then follow the wires to the gas valve. The fuse often isn't far away.

Edited Section.
FYI: Additional Notes.
{{Applicable to this posting question and all others, when the glow coil fails to function.}}

Do not assume the glow coil is defective simply because it fails to glow. If there isn't any current flowing to the glow coil, test for electrical continuity to and from the thermostat.

It's always possible there is another defective part or switch that is inline electrically between the thermostat and the glow coil that is defective and not allowing current to flow through the entire circuit.

You may also need to verify there is continuity through the entire wiring system. Each wire should be checked through it's entire length.

Also check for electrical continuity through the fuse. The fuses element may visually appear to be unbroken but electrically not functioning internally.

Regards & Good Luck
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Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

[Edited by Tom_Bartco on 07-21-01 at 11:08]
Old 07-21-01, 06:08 AM
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Question Question

Hi all,

Kenmore is made by several different people...what model are you all working on??

Old 07-21-01, 06:58 PM
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Kenmore Gas Range
Model: 362.75295790

The Repair Parts List that I got with the appliance 3 yrs ago does not show a fuse. Cannot find the bloody thing. Apart from taking the whole entire back off, I am puzzled as to where this %&@#$! fuse is. Would have thought it would be more accessable. I did check the voltage from the connector that the glow coil is connect to...nothing. So current is getting to the sotve but is not getting down to the glow coil. Gotta be this fuse if I can ever find it. Thanks for the help. Will try looking again on Sunday. Meanwhile, my wife has no use of the oven.


Old 07-22-01, 07:00 AM
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Originally posted by wakky
Took the glow coil to Sears Parts Store for replacement. They tested it and said it was OK.

362.######### Kenmore range is a GE built gas range.
Most gas ranges had a twist and pull out type of small cartidge fuse near where the main power cord entered the gas range. I had a peek with the model# you provided and could not locate one on this newer range. Many newer ranges have eliminated this fuse. Even a lot of the repair info I get still shows a fuse in the oven line...

If the glow coil in not comming on at all:
- open glow coil
- open safety gas valve
- open wire or wire connector
- open oven control
- open/not closing oven relay
All above can/will stop the glow coil from coming on at all.

If no power is getting to the coil...you can trace backwards through the stuff pictured in the pic link ( even the male/female wire connectors until you get the 110-120 volts AC...
Or try continuity tests on the wiring, valve, glow bar, oven control, etc...

Hope something here helps,


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