I have a 1995 Maytag gas oven model CRG9700CAM that won't light. After keying oven temperature to say 350 degrees on the electronic pad nothing happens. Where should I start?

 

Hello Rmorin9944 and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and my Gas Appliance forum.

Glow coil replacement usually solves the problem.

Do not assume the glow coil is defective simply because it fails to glow. If there isn't any current flowing to the glow coil, test for electrical continuity to and from the thermostat. Be sure to unplug the power first.

It's always possible there is another defective part or switch that is in line electrically between the thermostat and the glow coil that is defective, incorrectly set, etc. and not allowing current to flow through the entire circuit. You may also need to verify if there is electrical continuity through the entire wiring system.

Check the control panel for proper settings. Be sure the clock is set correctly and the selector is set to manual and not in a timed bake selection. Be sure there is electrical power to the appliance.

Each wire should be checked through it's entire length. Check each electrical connection, terminal and junction connection. Also check for loose wires between the glow coil, gas valve and every switch.

Also check for electrical continuity through the fuse. The fuses element may visually appear to be unbroken but electrically not functioning internally.

Check the archives, within this forum, for other postings on this topic and the replies offered. Also locate my "Gas Valves and Glow Coils" posting in the archives for additional information.

FYI:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several of the parts often used in ovens. There are parts such as electrical thermostatson some models, sensors, timers, solenoids, gas valves, reset buttons, flame switches etc. used on either early, later and current oven models when neither of these tests will provide proof positive the part being tested is actually functioning correctly. Therefore, do not rely solely on either test.

TIP:
Best method is to determine if any part is funtioning correctly is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential culprit, and have the local appliance parts store person run the required tests.

Regards & Good Luck
Forum Moderator
Tom_Bartco
Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

 

Thanks for the help Mr. Bartco. Without your help I don't think I would have had the confidence to take on this project. After making the various continuity checks an visual inspection of the control board turned up a "toasted" resister. The resister location was R6 on the control board. After replacing the resister with one purchased at Radio Shack for .10 cents the oven works! Thanks again to you and Do It Yourself.com .

Sincerely,

Bob Morin

 

Hello Bob

Glad you found the problem and got it corrected.

Thanks kindly for posting back what the exact problem was and how you corrected it. By doing so, those reading this forum learn also.

I would not have suspected the circuit board to be the problem initially. Nor would I have suggested checking it to the depth you did. I avoid the in-depth diagnostics simply because most eyes glaze-over reading details and many may not have the tools and skills you have.

Thank you for the kind words too. However, it was you that discovered and corrected the problem and nothing I posted.

Good Job! Have a beer!...

Regards,
Tom