Stovetop not lighting after oven cleaned
#1
11-28-01, 08:49 AM
Stovetop not lighting after oven cleaned
Hi,
I am in posession of a gas stove with electric starter (i.e. no piolot light).
The other day, I cleaned the inside of my gas oven w/ easyoff. After the cleaning operation, the oven will startup without a problem, but the starting mechanism for the burners fail to start - no clicking, just the smell of gas. Other electrics on the stove work (clock, interior light).
During the cleaning process, fumes were flowing up from the oven and out the top - could this have
clogged the ignitors? I tried cleaning the burners,
and nothing looks clogged - but still no go.
Any suggestions?
I am in posession of a gas stove with electric starter (i.e. no piolot light).
The other day, I cleaned the inside of my gas oven w/ easyoff. After the cleaning operation, the oven will startup without a problem, but the starting mechanism for the burners fail to start - no clicking, just the smell of gas. Other electrics on the stove work (clock, interior light).
During the cleaning process, fumes were flowing up from the oven and out the top - could this have
clogged the ignitors? I tried cleaning the burners,
and nothing looks clogged - but still no go.
Any suggestions?
#2
11-28-01, 06:14 PM
Admin Emeritus
Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
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Hello ep7. Welcome to my Gas Appliances forum.
To answer the first question, you most likely go overspray onto the sparkers. You'll have to fully clean each sparker. If that fails, may be the contact switches on each burner valve or check for loose wires and or blown fuse, etc.
Oven cleaner will clog up the ovens burner ports {Holes} You'll have to check them and clean as needed. Also check the glow coil {Glow Bar - Hot Surface Ignitor} If oven overspray got on it, it's history. Replacement is the only solution in many cases.
Another suggestion:
Glow coil replacement usually solves the problem. It is also common to replace the gas valve at the same time the glow coil is replaced. However, this isn't always needed when done as a do-it-yourself project. Glow coil and gas valve replacement as a set is often done by appliance service persons.
Do not assume the glow coil is defective simply because it fails to glow. If there isn't any current flowing to the glow coil, test for electrical continuity to and from the thermostat. Be sure to unplug the power first.
It's always possible there is another defective part or switch that is in line electrically between the thermostat and the glow coil that is defective, incorrectly set, etc. and not allowing current to flow through the entire circuit. You may also need to verify if there is electrical continuity through the entire wiring system.
Also check for electrical continuity through the fuse. The fuses element may visually appear to be unbroken but electrically not functioning internally. The fuse is generally located at the end of the electrical power cord close to the oven burner gas valve.
FYI:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several of the parts often used in ovens. There are parts such as electrical thermostatson some models, sensors, timers, solenoids, gas valves, reset buttons, flame switches etc. used on either early, later and current oven models when neither of these tests will provide proof positive the part being tested is actually functioning correctly. Therefore, do not rely solely on either test.
TIP:
Keep in mind, that the only positive proof any part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential culprit, and have the local appliance parts store person run the required tests, if appliable and help make the final determination.
Appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for all appliances and are listed in the phone book under appliances. Patronize our online sponsor, who's ad appears on this web page, for additional information and online parts sales.
Read the manufacturers online web site for additional product problem solving information. Check the ARCHIVES, within this forum, for other postings on this topic and the replies offered. Within the archives of this forum, locate the "Gas Valves and Glow Coils" posting for additional do-it-yourself information.
Regards & Good Luck
Forum Moderator
Tom_Bart...
Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Please be advised that although I have spent 18 years in the natural gas industry, I am not currently working as an appliance service or repair technican. Some diagnostic information provided is exclusively from memory....
To answer the first question, you most likely go overspray onto the sparkers. You'll have to fully clean each sparker. If that fails, may be the contact switches on each burner valve or check for loose wires and or blown fuse, etc.
Oven cleaner will clog up the ovens burner ports {Holes} You'll have to check them and clean as needed. Also check the glow coil {Glow Bar - Hot Surface Ignitor} If oven overspray got on it, it's history. Replacement is the only solution in many cases.
Another suggestion:
Glow coil replacement usually solves the problem. It is also common to replace the gas valve at the same time the glow coil is replaced. However, this isn't always needed when done as a do-it-yourself project. Glow coil and gas valve replacement as a set is often done by appliance service persons.
Do not assume the glow coil is defective simply because it fails to glow. If there isn't any current flowing to the glow coil, test for electrical continuity to and from the thermostat. Be sure to unplug the power first.
It's always possible there is another defective part or switch that is in line electrically between the thermostat and the glow coil that is defective, incorrectly set, etc. and not allowing current to flow through the entire circuit. You may also need to verify if there is electrical continuity through the entire wiring system.
Also check for electrical continuity through the fuse. The fuses element may visually appear to be unbroken but electrically not functioning internally. The fuse is generally located at the end of the electrical power cord close to the oven burner gas valve.
FYI:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several of the parts often used in ovens. There are parts such as electrical thermostatson some models, sensors, timers, solenoids, gas valves, reset buttons, flame switches etc. used on either early, later and current oven models when neither of these tests will provide proof positive the part being tested is actually functioning correctly. Therefore, do not rely solely on either test.
TIP:
Keep in mind, that the only positive proof any part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential culprit, and have the local appliance parts store person run the required tests, if appliable and help make the final determination.
Appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for all appliances and are listed in the phone book under appliances. Patronize our online sponsor, who's ad appears on this web page, for additional information and online parts sales.
Read the manufacturers online web site for additional product problem solving information. Check the ARCHIVES, within this forum, for other postings on this topic and the replies offered. Within the archives of this forum, locate the "Gas Valves and Glow Coils" posting for additional do-it-yourself information.
Regards & Good Luck
Forum Moderator
Tom_Bart...
Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Please be advised that although I have spent 18 years in the natural gas industry, I am not currently working as an appliance service or repair technican. Some diagnostic information provided is exclusively from memory....
