Oil Furnace won't ignite


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Old 10-30-02, 08:02 AM
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Oil Furnace won't ignite

I write in a few days ago and misidentified my oil furnace brand it is actually a Mueller Climatrol.

Anyway I have removed the nozzle igniter assembly as I couldn't view anything in the fire box. The nozzle looked very dirty and it's filter had junk...I replaced it, I am getting a good conical oil spray but no spark.

Q? Should it spark right away ? I am only leaving it on a couple of seconds as the oil sprays into the room but in those few seconds I see no spark. The electrodes look fairly clean and the gap is about two pennies thickness apart. There is a red reset switch on the stack amnd another hi limit switch on the housing outside and above the firebox. What is the troubleshooting procedure ?

How do you check the transformer ? Any other tips ?
 
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Old 10-30-02, 11:45 AM
STIMPY21
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To test the transformer, confirm 120 volts to the input with a multimeter, or if you are a DIEHARD use A 120 VOLT lightbulb w/socket.With an INSULATED SCREWDRIVER, touch one of the posts to the screwdriver close to the handle and slowly move the end of the screwdriver tip NEAR the other post . it should start arcing before it gets to the post with a whitish blue spark that will jump a gap easily. if it barely sparks it is no good. This can be a dangerous procedure and if you are unsure do not do it.
//////////USE THIS INFO AT YOUR OWN RISK//////////////////
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Old 10-30-02, 12:47 PM
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burner oil

You can also ohm the transformer out and see if its good.ON the stack do you have one are two relays in it ? The one for the transformer could be bad.Also on the electrodes are the ceramic bad.How do you have the electrodes set,They should be 1/8" out in front of the nozzle.A !/2" up from the hole in the nozzle and about a 1/8 " apart. If you use a screwdriver to test the transformer make sure its well insulated cause that pot puts out 10,000 to 15.000 volts.You should be able to pull the spark about 1/2"or more, if less the pot is dead.You didnt change how far the nozzle set up went into the air tube did you. Yes it should spark right away. When you cleaned the nozzle did you take it all apart? You didnt use a pin in it did you? LIKE ST SAID IF YOU DONT KNOW DONT DO IT OK.YOU SHOULD RUN IT IN THE FIRE BOX ALSO THERE IS A MIRROR THAT YOU CAN USE TO SEE WHAT IT IS DOING. ED
 
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Old 10-30-02, 01:06 PM
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Let me ask something...how do I test the "arc"...the only way to get to the electrodes is to have the unit apart and when it's "on" so that it should spark there is oil constantly spraying.

I replace the nozzle with a brand new one. I cleaned the elctrodes and the porcelein insulators. The electodes are set as you both describe.
 
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Old 10-30-02, 01:32 PM
STIMPY21
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I have found it is better to test with a screw driver as the resistance can vary from model to model, also 1 wind shorted will give a good resistance measurement, yet still not work. Yes the oil will spray even if you cut it off as there is oil in the pump. You shouldn't have to test it long 1 or 2 seconds it will be readily apparent if it is ok. Don't keep running the oil in there any more than you have to as it will rumble like it is coming apart when you finally do get it going. I've had more than 1 occasion where a homeowner reset the primary control a few dozen times filling the combustion chamber with oil and when I got her going the thing rumbled and shook so bad I could have easily sold a new unit to them simply on the fear factor alone.You need to see a good hot spark with the ability to jump a gap that is what it is doing at the electrodes. Like Ed said the insulator must be good= no cracks. This is a very short quick test, and the results are easy to distinguish. Good hot spark jumping a gap up to 1/2 or maybe a little more. If you do have spark then the next thing is are you making contact with the brass bars that connect to the electrodes. This is critical. I used to be able to tell if they were touching by the sound that they made as you lower the transformer down onto themkind of like cling cling as the one nearest the hinge hits first and then the outboard one. Also as Ed said are you sure that you did not alter the position of the gun in the tube??There should be some kind of hole that will let yopu see in to the fire box and with a small mirror you should be able to see if the electrode is firing ok. I have worked on a few thousand of them, but not familiar with your make specifically.You have been given some things to try try them and post back.
STIMPY21
 
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Old 10-30-02, 01:35 PM
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burner oil

Ok Put the electrode's and the nozzle in the air tube like they should be and leave the transformer off. I dont know how to tell you this. The transformer can swing out ,or up. or down, or over.For this test you let the
transformer open so you can look at the two places where the electrode go. Oil burners of the gun type like you have all work the same way BUT BUT BUT from the transformer to the electrode's its ears, wire, springs, pins, boy you name it.
If this dont do it email me ED NOW THINK 10,000 VOLTS
 
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Old 10-30-02, 04:45 PM
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Cool Looks like Bad transformer

I did the electrode test...real weak spark...kinda like the one you got on you Lionel Electric train

I gues I need to get a new transformer...or is there anything else to check ? Any glue where to get these babies ?

You guys have been great
 
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Old 10-30-02, 04:57 PM
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oil burner

Dont know where you are .So try a HVAC guy there by you or grainger dont know for sure there. and gohttp://callallied.com might find them there. Go for the transformer ED
 
 

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