Zone Control

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  #1  
Old 12-15-02, 04:17 PM
JHB15
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Zone Control

I HAVE A HYDROTHERM HC-100B GAS BOILER . I HAVE HOT WATER BASEBOARD ON THE FIRST FLOOR .WHEN THE HOUSE WAS BUILT ABOUT 1965 THEY RAN COPPER PIPE IN THE FLOOR OF THE BASEMENT(I GUESS OLD STYLE RADIANT FLOOR HEAT). I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW HOW TO SPLIT THE SYSTEM FOR TWO ZONES. SINCE I AM GETTING READY TO FINISH THE BASEMENT I DONT WANT IT GETTING TO HOT WHEN THE DROPPED CEILING GOES IN.
 
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Old 12-15-02, 04:35 PM
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Smile We'd be glad to help.

JHB15:

In order to get a clear picture of your situation we would need much more information.

If you look at the anouncement at the top of this forum the info we'd need is there.

No detail is too small.
 
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Old 12-16-02, 07:34 PM
JHB15
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RIGHT NOW THE SYSTEM IS WORKING IN THE BASEMENT AND THE 1ST FLOOR OF A SMALL RANCH APPROX 1000 SQ FT PER FLOOR WITH THE THERMOSTAT ON THE FIRST FLOOR. THE ONLY WAY TO TURN OFF THE RADIENT FLOOR HEAT IN THE BASEMENT IS BY CLOSING OFF A VALVE.ALSO THE SAME FOR THE FIRST FLOOR. THE BOILER IS NATURAL GAS FIRED WITH A HONYWELL AQUSTAT RELAY TYPE L1848E. THE FIRST FLOOR BASEBOARD IS FED BY 3/4"COPPER PIPE. THE BASEMENT FLOOR IS ALSO WHICH IS SPLIT TOO TWO 1/2" PIPES, I'M NOT SURE IF THAT IS THE FEED OR RETURN LINE,BECAUSE IT GOES INTO THE FLOOR. WHAT I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IS THAT IF I COULD SEPARATER THE SYSTEM WITH SOLINOIDS AND A SEPARATE THERMOSTAT FOR THE BASEMENT.
 
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Old 12-18-02, 04:20 PM
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I'll take a stab at it for you. You will have some technical and some non-technical issues before you as you decide whether you do this job yourself. If you know where the two valves are that isolate each floor from the other, you have a starting point. It really shouldn't matter if the valves are on the supply or return. Install zone control valves next to the manual valves you described above and control the one for the first floor from your existing thermostat and install a new thermostat for the basement and have it control the other valve. You will have issues to address with power supply for zone valves and controlling the boiler and circulating pump from the zone valves. It's probably a worthwhile project but a bit complicated.
 
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Old 12-18-02, 04:59 PM
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hot water

If you want to look at cost here and something that will work. You could just put in a butterfly valve in the line going to the basement loop and set it for what you want. Its not hard to balance your set up with this ED
 
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Old 12-18-02, 07:02 PM
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JHB15:

You cannot use solenoids to control two zones beause of the pump issue as JHB15 has suggested. This won't work because the pump cannot run against two closed valves.

A way to zone this is with a three way zone valve for each circuit, but you would have to have access to the inlet and outlet of each zone, which should be fairly close to each other.

Ed's suggestion is probably the simplest and should work.
 
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Old 12-18-02, 07:22 PM
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If you installed a Honeywell zone valve with and end switch (cheap enough and widely available) next to the valves you referred to earlier, you could temporarily open them manually and get on to the wiring. You probably have a 24 volt transformer somewhere in your system already. These zone valves draw very little current so you could tap off of the existing transformer. The thermostat wiring is pretty straightforward and the end switches get wired in parallel so that either one can star the boiler and circulator. No need to worry about the circulator running against a dead head because if neither valve is open there is no call for the circulator. It is the same setup as any other zone configuration used in the hydronic industry.
 
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