old radiator to baseboard conversion

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  #1  
Old 12-18-02, 08:08 PM
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old radiator to baseboard conversion

What I have at present - Hot water boiler, 2 zones - ground floor and first floor.
2 rectangular (continuous) runs of over head copper pipe that are agaist the exterior walls. The first floor has 3 old radiators that are being replaced with baseboard. The radiators are fed by the continuous overhead run with a tee and the inlet and outlet are vertical copper pipes.
The question(s) - I would prefer to take the 1 overhead ground floor run out (for aesthetic reasons as well) and run baseboard. BUT when I come to a door(s) can I go up and over the door with the piping or will that overtax the circulating pump.
 
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Old 12-18-02, 08:21 PM
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Your description is a little sketchy and it raises more questions that it does answers. How did you determine the length of baseboard it took to replace each radiator? If you do that wrong, you will live to regret it. You will throw the room-to-room balance out and will not be comfortable. It seems like you are describing a Monoflo system when you say continuous loop with supply and return off of same pipe with 1/2" runs. If you take out the whole thing you can loop each floor independently. If you leave it in, you can't do too much fancy piping or you will not get circulation through the branch. Give us a little more info.
 
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Old 12-18-02, 08:59 PM
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sorry for the confusion. it's been a while since a technical writing class.
there are 2 separate zones and 2 circulating pumps. the house is a rectangle. each zone (ground floor and first floor) are layed out in rectangles going around the house suspended from the ground floor ceiling. the first floor zone pipe hangs considerably lower than the upstairs (part of the reason I wanted to get it down from there). I have yet to figure out how much baseboard I need (assistance here would be greatly appreciated). My concern was when I run the baseboard can I run a vertical up and over the doorways and still get the flow I need?
The current setup in this continuous rectangular run is a Tee with a copper pipe coming vertically down to meet the radiator on the "in" and another on the "out side. Of course this "continuous" run is broken with a boiler.
The first floor run is staying as it is.
Hope all this makes sense. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 12-19-02, 05:43 AM
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Each section of each radiator has a fixed heat output. If you get me the information on the radiators, I can convert it to btus and feet of baseboard. I will need to know The height of each radiator, depth of each one, how many tubes (if they are small) or columns (if they are large) and how many sections in each radiator.

Both zones seem to be Monoflo which uses tees with venturis in them. If you keep the upper floor as is and replace the radiators with baseboard you should be OK. I would recommend total replacement of the basement zone and it sounds like that is what you are planning anyway. Then you can run up and over the doors or whatever you have to do almost. As long as you don't end up with 300 feet of pipe in the loop. There will need to be provisions for air removal. I prefer purging, but you could also put key vents at the high spots for manual venting.
 
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Old 12-19-02, 12:23 PM
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Base board heat

Slant finn baseboard Heat out put :At 200deg water temperture, 4 gpm flow is 720 BTU per foot. You have to run a load on the rooms ED
 
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Old 12-19-02, 08:48 PM
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thanks thus far Ed and KField. if you can tell me where to access info on determining "load" on a room and the "purging" process that would be great. I'll first look through past forum posts. I will also get the specs on the old radiators the first chance I get.
stephen.
 
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Old 12-20-02, 05:07 AM
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All you need to be able to purge is to have a valve near the boiler on the return and on the baseboard side of that valve, put a tee with a boiler drain valve in it. That is just a valve you can connect a garden hose to. When you want to purge that zone, you open the zone valve for that zone and close the valve on the return and hook a hose to the valve on the tee and run water through the loop and out the hose. You may need to override the water feed valve to expedite the process, but it will prevent you from having to bleed air manually. The best way is to put the end of the hose in a bucket and when you don't see any more bubbles coming out of the hose, you are finished. Get me those radiator measurements and if you have any more questions on the purging, let me know.
 
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