ruud unit and cold house

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Old 01-12-03, 07:53 AM
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ruud unit and cold house

new ruud unit put in this past summer (2002)...it is a 2 1/2 ton unit for a 1500 square foot home...we live in the south...the temperature here now is roughly at or slightly below freezing...the ground is frozen...the thermostat is set on 72...

problem...we kept our thermostat on 76, but utility bill was huge...so we set it down to 72...house still feels cold...some rooms are colder than others...does anyone have a suggestion or reason for the problem...will the 72 degree setting help the utility bill...



thanks...any help or suggestions would greatly be appreciated...

michael
 
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Old 01-12-03, 08:16 AM
D Pell
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Do You have lots of cold air returns in your home? how well is the home insulated?
 
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Old 01-12-03, 08:39 AM
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cold air returns??? i am assuming that you mean the big vent where the filter goes...we have one down the hall where all the bedrooms are...it is a basic brick rancher built in the 60s...how good was the insulation they put in back then???

i will also, tell you that we have a masonry wood burnig fireplace...no glass doors, just a large rectangle opening...we do build fires often...

thanks...michael
 
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Old 01-12-03, 09:06 AM
bigjohn
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Where are you in the South? Is this an usually cold spell? What kind of heat? The amount of air supplied to a room [and its' temperature] determines whether it will heat/cool a room well enough. The rooms that are cold now, are these same rooms too warm in the Summer? Beefing up the insulation is the cheapest route to take. Any time you can be comfortable with a lower thermostat setting, you'll cut the utility bill. Now last year, did you get a new SYSTEM or just new EQUIPMENT? Did the contractor do a room by room heat/cool load calculation and analyze the existing ductwork? Did you have all new ductwork installed or just a new unit? How were the rooms with the old system?
 
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Old 01-12-03, 09:09 AM
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Am I correct in assuming that you have one central return in the ceiling? That would be the one where the air filter goes. If that's the case, your system was designed for cooling only and will be rather uncomfortable for heating. The cold air is heavier than the warm air and lays on the floor. That is OK in the summer but if you cant get that cold air off the floor in the winter, it means cold feet.

Every degree closer to the outdoor temperature you keep your indoor temperature set for is less money to pay for heating/cooling. That part is obvious but as that spread increases, insulation becomes more important.

Where are the heating outlets located in the rooms? Ceiling or floor?

I live in PA and we keep our thermostat set at 68. The logic is that you only have to pay for a sweatshirt once and it lasts a couple of years. But if you just wear a tee shirt, you pay the electric company an anount equal to many sweatshirts every month and never get to wear them.
 
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Old 01-12-03, 09:14 AM
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hobbs_m:

First suggestion would be to get a good digital thermometer/ humidity guage to see what the conditions are.

The settings on your stat are really only a guide.

Another issue is humidity.
I'm unsure of what your climate is like. The "South" covers a wide range of conditions.
The humidity comfort range centers around 30 to 50 percent.

Quality of the windows, door seals, drafts, personal health and constitution are all factors to comfort levels.

If you can give us more info on your situation a more concise answer can be provided.

Read the anouncement at the top of this forum for what would be usefull to know.
 
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Old 01-12-03, 12:47 PM
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more concise

ok...i have a one-story 1500 sq ft home...i have a 2 1/2 ton ruud unit...i have a crawl space...all the ducts are in the crawl space...the air vents are in the floors...the cold air return is near the floor in the wall...

i have the old wooden sash windows...single pane...i have some old style storm windows on the outside of the windows...i don't know anything else about the doors...the house was built in the 60s...the front door looks the same...in have the blown in insulation in the attic...it is about 6-8 in thick...outside humidity here ranges from 60-90% on average...we have a digital thermostat...when we cut the thermostat up to 76, the eheat comes on...i believe this is where i am using so much energy...

would the water heater and dryer be much of a problem in the winter...my bill is much lower in the summer...

also, would the glass fireplace doors be a good investment??? am i losing much heat out of the chimney when i burn a fire...

thanks..michael
 
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Old 01-12-03, 01:35 PM
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hobbs_m:

You have raised two questions with solutions that conflict.

The question about your fuel bills.
Yes, the lower you set your thermostat the lower your bills will be.

The question about having a cold house.
The higher you make the temp the warmer your house will be.

There is no magic here. Your comfort is going to cost you.

We still are missing a lot of info, again, where you live and even what fuel your furnace is.

But that's ok, 'cause it's really simple:

Spend more money by turning the heat up to be comfortable, spend more money by doing an energy upgrade to your home or spend more money by purchasing warmer clothes and blankets.
 
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Old 01-12-03, 02:05 PM
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BILLS

You asked and you said it. The first thing is that fireplace. Do you have any make up air for it comeing in the home??????Too many homes that have high heat bills most of the time its from the use of the fire place. With no make up air, no doors on the front and ill bet when you go to bed the fire is still going and the damper is still full open.Have had many people that stopped useing their fireplace and their heat bill went down. Also like Gregh said up grade the home on windows and insulation. ED
 
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Old 01-12-03, 03:18 PM
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sorry missing info

we use a ruud heat pump...it is electric...we live in alabama...

also...what is make up air...what do you mean no doors on the front???

thanks...michael
 
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Old 01-12-03, 05:31 PM
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Heat Bills

Most of the time if there is a fireplace in the home and they come up with high heat bills we look at the fireplace first. Now you did say that you dont have a glass doors on the fireplace. Now that is a must. When was the last time you looked at the damper there in the fireplace does it close all the way????? Now make up air, you have to have air come in for the fireplace when it is going.We take and put a duct or pipe to the outside in the fireplace as it goes up with an out let for the air right in front of the fire or in front of the glass doors. The fireplace will pull the cold air into the home from all the rooms if you dont have a make up air inlet. You didnt say if the crawl way was insulated or not it should be and a 4or6 mil poly down on the ground. Have a boy there in mobile and i know his bill arent bad at all. nat gas is cheep there. Did i miss it or not You didnt say nat lp ele. fuel GregH told you we need more infoooooo to help ED
 
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