House temp wont go over 60F

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  #1  
Old 01-16-03, 05:38 AM
gggparker
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House temp wont go over 60F

For past month house temperature will not go above 65 degrees, regardless of thermostat setting. I have a dual zone hot water heat
system, one zone for upstairs and one zone for down stairs. Now
temperature will not go above 60 degrees as of 2 days ago.
I have fully flushed the system and do not appear to have any air in
it. Is there a specific way to check the zone valves or pump? There
is no type of flow meter in system.
I would be greatfull for any assistance in this matter

Thanks GP
 
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  #2  
Old 01-16-03, 05:57 AM
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Question More info please.

gggparker:

It would be helpfull to know more about your situation.

Read the anouncement at the top of this forum.

What we need to know is there.
 
  #3  
Old 01-16-03, 06:02 AM
gggparker
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House is a ranch style home, located in central Michigan area,
1300 square feet upstairs and 1300 square feet in fully finished basement. Boiler is a "Slant/Fin" model, hot water heat was installed in this home in 1984, home is very well insulated, thermostat upstairs is a Honeywell standard type thermostat (not a "smart system"), thermostat
downstairs is also "Slant/Fin".
 

Last edited by gggparker; 01-16-03 at 06:31 AM.
  #4  
Old 01-16-03, 06:40 AM
bigjohn
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First thing to do is see what temperature the boiler is heating the water to. Perhaps the aquastat has lost its' calibration. Maybe the limit control is out of calibration and is shutting the boiler off. Is the pump running? Try turning it off and compare which way it's turning with the rotation arrow on the pump body. It's long shot, but maybe the pump is running backwards? How many pounds of pressure does the gauge on the boiler show? Is the problem confined to one zone or the whole house?
 

Last edited by bigjohn; 01-16-03 at 07:18 AM.
  #5  
Old 01-16-03, 06:41 AM
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A few thing I want to ask.,


Are the pump(s) running?

How the pipes feels from and to the boiler? All of them hot/warm?

What's your pressure reading on your gage, and temp on the boiler?

Burners running all times or cycling on and off alot?



Flushing a system always don't get all the air out of the line.. At your highest point, or at each end of the baseboard should be a bleeder valve. Check them all make sure you do have air bleed out of it. Also, Are the coils cleaned? Also, some will have an adj shiled that can be open and closed.. Are yours open all the ways so the air can be exchanged?
 
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Old 01-16-03, 10:47 AM
gggparker
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The pipes past the zone valves are hot to the touch, I can't
hold on to them, too hot. How do I tell whether the pump is even running., since it's so qiuet, and How do I tell what direction the pump is turning when I can't see it, has no flow meter. About 30 feet into the basement zone the pipe is only luke warm. I feel some heat through out the upstairs zone but very little. When
I flushe the system through with cold water I had a real good clean flow both upstairs and down for at least 5 minutes, and I checked at all the bleed valves and got only water for about 2 minutes at every location.
 

Last edited by gggparker; 01-16-03 at 11:25 AM.
  #7  
Old 01-16-03, 01:33 PM
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It sounds like maybe your pump isn't running.. So the heat from the boiler is travling on it's own..

What style of pump do you have?? Brand? Model#?

if you have an older style, you can look down between the motor and the pump assembley, and see a shaft spining...

Newer ones, you won't be able to see it..

Put your hands on the motor and see if you can feel it running.. if it don't feel like it's running, maybe the motor is burned out or check for a fuse/breaker that may feed the pump motor.

I am working today, so I won't be back on the computer till after 7pm CST.

I am sure someone else will jump in and help you..
 
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Old 01-16-03, 06:24 PM
gggparker
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Thanks for all the great help guys. You helped confirm my
original thoughts. I removed the pump, direct wired it to test and sure enough, it's junk! This is the first house I've owned with hot water heat, we've lived in it for over a year, and with the new pump this is the first time I"ve heard water moving in the pipes.
Thanks again.
 
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Old 01-16-03, 06:53 PM
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Glad to hear...

So you end up getting a new pump yourself form a plumber or what??

Also, you should be comfortable, and also maybe a lower gas bill??

Now you can enjoy a nice warm house on the cold winter days!


Glad to help! :-)
 
  #10  
Old 01-16-03, 06:56 PM
H
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Unhappy hearing the water thru the pipes...

You shouldn't really be hearing the water thru the pipes... If so, try bleeding, what your hearing is air mixed with the water. Check the auto air vent, on the air scoop, over the boiler, it should be open about 1-1/2 turns, or the air will never escape! It will look like a valve cap for a car tire. remove it and throw it in the trash (the cap).
Good job on the check...Sometimes they run very quiet and you can't hardly hear if they are running. The tell tale sign is the cold return... What you were getting was gravity hot water.
If you don't have zone valves, you might want to be asking whats up with the flow check?? Is it missing? There are two ways to zone hydronics. With circulators or zone valves. Zone valves use one pump for the whole system and each zone has a zone valve and thermostat.
Circulator zoning, has a circulator only for each zone and a flo-check valve too. The flow-check keeps the hot water from migrating around the system without permission.
 
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