Converting from Oil to Gas HVAC costs?


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Old 02-19-03, 10:18 AM
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Question Converting from Oil to Gas HVAC costs?

We have been in our house 3 years now. It is roughly 35 years old. The oil tank has been in the front yard that long and I am concerned of leaking even though it is insured. Also every winter we have back dust floating around the house. Both the ducting and heater have been cleaned both this year and last. My wife and daughter are asthmatic. This year in NJ it has been very cold and hence the heater is running more and longer. My wife and daughter are suffering. Based on the age of the heat and A/C plant we want to convert to cleaner burning natural gas. We have a split {that is not balanced well either} with 1900 sq ft of living space. I want a 2 stage style heater and want it to include a humidifier and an electronic air cleaner {due to the asthma}. Can anyone give me a rough idea of what type of costs I am looking at. Also any contractor recomendations in the Mercer County, NJ area would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you and Regards,

Doug
 
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Old 02-19-03, 11:10 AM
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Doug:

If you have black dust floating around the house there is a good chance the heat exchanger is leaking or the seal on the burner is bad.
Either of these conditions are unsafe and the furnace should be checked by a qualified oil burner service person as soon as possible.

It would not be realistic for someone to give you any estimate of cost as there are too many variables.

Get as many quotes as you can and be sure they are in writing and in detail, with specific info on the proposed equipment.

Come back with details and we can help you decipher the quotes you get.
 
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Old 02-19-03, 12:02 PM
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Post Re. Black Dust

Thanks Greg,

The reputiable oil company that I have used for the past 15 years {here and at my past home} just finished servicing the unit for the winter and claims everything is ok. It is not like you can see the dust kicking from the vents or anything, it just settles on the surfaces of the house. We have always had this since we moved in. The Tech advised when I questioned this that it is just a trate of oil forced hot air. We had oil fired hot water at our old house and loved. Is his claiming valid, because now I am starting to 2nd guess everything they have done or said to me over the years. I guess with the age of the inground tank, the dust and the asthma issue, it is time for a change. I will be calling for some quotes. I also have to get PSE&G involved to run the gas to the house.



When I get some quotes I will post for some advise.

Thanks,

Doug
 
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Old 02-19-03, 02:00 PM
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OIL or GAS

like GregH said it could be the heat exchanger has a leak. You do want to get a good power humidifier in your bid . also look into the electronic filters. I find that people are not to happy with them after we have put them in.Just to much to keep them clean.As the dust builds up in them they start letting the dust get into the home.I would look more into the new pleat type filters. There also are some high efficiency bag type filters that could be worked in to the return duct for you ED
 
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Old 02-19-03, 05:07 PM
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Doug:

I see many dead electrostatic filters in basements with owners who don't want to bother getting them fixed.

I agree with Ed that a high efficiency filter may be a good way to go.
There are filter racks you can get that allow a pre-filter ahead of the high efficiency one to extend it's life.
If you are installing these with a new system it's easier to allow for the higher pressure drop of these units.

http://www.aprilaire.com/category.asp?ID=78AF591022CB430194A5737F8522419E&catID=0B10B06EA1EA4D14A4722CD120E8C7F6
 
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Old 02-20-03, 08:02 AM
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If your system is functioning propertly, I wouldn't think it would make a difference with respect to indoor air quality if you burn either oil or gas, as the combustion is (should be) completely contained. Gas is cleaner with respect to what goes up the chimney, but that shouldn't really effect the indoor air quality.

Just converted from oil to gas. The gas company ran the gas line from the street to the house for free because of switching fuels, and gave me a $500 rebate to boot with the purchase of an energy star (85%+) boiler.

Around here (western Mass), a new above ground oil tank installed and piped in your basement is about 7 or 8 hundred bucks. My plumber did my gas piping for furnace, hot water heater, future gas stove, future gas dryer, future gas spac heater and future gas grill for less than this.

Have hot water heat and cast iron baseboard radiators. Been loving my heat this winter!! Have coworker building house were his wife will not do a forced air heating system due to AQ & comfort concerns. Europeans almost exclusively use forced hot water (or steam) for heat, forced air heat is very rare over there.

Was the hot water heating in your last house easier on you wife's and daughter's asthma? If it made a big difference, you might consider getting estimates for installing it. Shouldn't be too difficult or destructive to install in a split.

Good luck.
 
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Old 02-20-03, 08:40 AM
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Your conversion can be anywhere between 6 to 12 thousand. Again there are too many variables to give you an accurate estimate. PSE&G does have a program for conversion, but you have to contact the marketing dept. They have a list of contractors and will give you estimates on the costs. If you have a masonry chimney, request a Level II inspection. Though this is not required in NJ, I strongly recommend one with conversion.

Underground oil tanks are truely a concern in NJ, especially on how punitive the EPA is. If you're wondering what they do with the excavated contaminated soil, they burn it in a special incinerator.

In my opinion, oil can be or be more efficient than gas. The problem with most homeowners is that they don't know how to maintain their systems and rely solely on the service contractor. A properly maintained oil system is very clean.

The black dust you are experiencing with your present system is probably not a result of the type of fuel you have. Duct leakage, especially leakage in the blower compartment can easily account for the black dust. There are a lot of access ports in the cabinet that houses the blower that may not be sealed properly. And it wouldn't matter what type of filter you had, it wouldn't stop the problem you're experiencing.

If you have a contract with an oil company that delivers oil to you, have them pressure test your tank. If it is leaking, your insurance will pay for the removal. You should actually have this done every year. I would not recommend conversion unless you had to remove the tank.
 
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Old 02-20-03, 01:13 PM
Brewbeer
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Here is some price info, not sure how costs in Mass compare to your location.

6 years ago, converted a 1,000 sq. ft. ranch w/ unfinished basement from electric heat & electric HW heater to propane hot water baseboard heat (~70 ft. of tube-fin radiators) w/ a 40 g Super Store indirect fired hot water heater run off the Smith boiler 50,000 BTU input, 81% AFUE, direct vent, no masonary chimney required, 2 heating zones. $6,000 included removal of old inoperable solar HW heat exchanger, 40 gal. antifreeze, old electric heat units, and old electric hot water heater.

Current house converted last November, 1,000 sq. ft. ranch w/ unfinished basement from oil boiler & electic HW to gas boiler and 40 gallon gas fired HW heater, Utica boiler 87% AFUE sealed combustion direct vent, no masonary chimney required. $4,000 included removal of old cast iron boiler, electric hot water tank, and gas piping for future gas appliances. Above ground oil tank in basement was not removed, estimates running about 500 bucks if empty.

Removing your underground oil tank and how much that is going to cost is a whole different story. Double check (and upgrade if possible) your insurance policy on that one before you excavate that can of worms.

Up here in Mass, they take the oil contaminated soil and mix it with liquid asphalt and agregate to make asphalt binder coat for roads and parking lots.

Hope this helps.
 
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Old 02-21-03, 06:12 PM
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I agree with the theory that a new system, either gas or oil, will be more efficient than what you have now. Why bother converting. Have the tank tested and stop worrying. You will know if the tank is leaking or not and can base a decision on that. Your tank, if installed correctly, could last 75 years or more. A modern oil furnace with a good cast refractory combustion chamber will provide many years of service and not add contaminants to the indoor air.
 
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Old 02-22-03, 08:34 PM
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Underground tanks

I would check with the local building inspector first thing. Make sure it's well insured. The ASHRAE class I took in 1994 had a guy showing us double hull tanks that are required by law now. They have a pressurized compartment between the two shells that can be tested with a pressure gauge. If the pressure is lost, it reveals a ruptured tank and needs to be replaced. They are serial numbered and registered. They are required to be changed out every 20 years and replaced regardless of condition.
Make sure the oil is removed from the tank prior to removal. Make sure the contractor is insured and have him show documentation to that effect. If something goes wrong, it's your problem...your property. The spaceguard air filter is a 4" filter that does a great job. If alergys are the concern, filter the air on the way out also, HEPA filters are the best but there is a paper 90% filter by Air Guard that I use on operating rooms that works great. Bad / leaking duct work won't let dirt in, because the ducts are positive pressure, always.. if it gets in the return, the Spaceguard filter (by Aprilaire) will catch it. I suspect you have been using the fiberglass air filters, these only do a good job of removing leaves and sticks. Get the AC coil washed with Special HD Calgon evaporator coil cleaner, it requires a rinse. The light duty stuff is the only one that needs no rinse. This stuff will, but it removes everything. One advantage I see on gas is its a little cheaper to operate and doesn't require and oil filter and other parts to change every year...
 
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Old 02-24-03, 11:05 AM
Brewbeer
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underground oil tanks

The best thing you can do to an underground oil tank you know nothing about, is remove it.

Yes, a well designed, solidly built, and properly installed underground soil tank can last a very long time, but that doesn't mean that it will.

Testing an underground oil tank is a crap shoot. I have seen underground oil tanks "pass" a hydrostatic leak test, only to be dug up six months later to reveal several holes. A pressure test on an underground tank could burst a marginal tank. Most underground tank leaks come from the oil supply piping and fill piping, not from the tanks themselves.

All underground oil storage systems eventually leak.
 
 

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