jump start air handler fan


Old 07-07-03, 10:12 PM
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Question jump start air handler fan


I have a Trane TWE065XXX.. air handler that died today.

The outside unit works OK!, and I am shure the fan motor of the air handler is also OK. I think the ICM fan control board blew up. (again )

The unit has 10 years, so I am thinking on replacing the unit, but I want to do a Quick fix to the air handler fan, so I can take my time selecting the contractor / unit I will buy.

The fan has 3 cables (blew, red & black) with high voltage going in. They are powered!.

The fan also has a connector to the ICM board, that has a blue, red and like 12 white cables that probably use 24 volts to control the speed of the FAN.

What I want to know, is if I can do some kind direct connection I can do, to leave the fan blowing air full speed. I don't care if it does not turn off aqt any time!.

Would be really nice if someone has a diagram of the fan.

From FLORIDA, desperately seeking the north wind,

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Old 07-08-03, 10:08 AM
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There has to be more than 3 wires going to fan motor. 5 or 6 wires would be more like it. The black, blue and red are the hi, medium amd low speed connections in that order. The there should be one or 2 browns and another color, probably white, yellow or purple. The board will control the speeds while the other side of the phase should connect directly to the motor as will the brown capacitor wires. What you want to do is disconnect the speed wires, hook up only one to the same power wire that feeds that part of the board and tape off the other 2. Start with high speed [black] and see how the cooling works. Not all units use high speed for cooling but that's the place to start. The main thing is to not have two speeds energize at the same time or you'll instantly blow the motor. [you'll never guess how I know that] There should a wiring diagram on the air handler. Maybe on the insdie of one of the covers? Trane units usually come with a sheet inside called service facts or reddy facts. It will contain the wiring diagram. I'm from the Dade/Broward county area but not living there at the present time.
Old 07-08-03, 10:46 AM
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Thanks for the reply,

the black, blue and red , are the Hi-voltage ones, and are only 3 in one connector.

The other connector, (from the ICM control board) has a blue, a red, and 10 white cables, so I don't have a brown yellow and purple ones.

The diagram, gives me the hint that I should place a jumper from the red control line (24V) to some of the white lines. But I am afraid of blowing the motor. Plus I don't have a clue of which line is the high speed, medium, or low, or if I will not damage the motor if I connect them all to 24V

I have attatched a picture of the wires going to the fan, this may help.

Old 07-08-03, 10:54 AM
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The images did not get attatched, so I here is the link

Old 07-08-03, 03:04 PM
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Good pics. You want to be very careful to not mix voltages. I can't quite make out the diagram but it looks like it says ECM on the motor in the schematic?. It doesn't look like you have a conventional multi-speed motor in which case you won't be able to bypass to it. I would need to be able to read the diagram better. I see that the red, black and green wires look like they go to the motor, what about all the wires from the molded plug on the board? It looks like you've had problems at the plug before? It looks like there are some burnt areas around the dip switches also. Can you post a picture of the wires as they enter the motor?
Old 07-08-03, 07:39 PM
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Is dificult to take a picture of that the plugs; they go to the back of the motor. the 3 wires (Hi-volt) go from the power box to its own connector plugged to the motor.

The other blue-red-10-whites cables, go from the ICM control board to the motor and have its own connector as well.

The "burnt" like areas can be cleaned. I think it actually is burnt oil from one of the capacitors. The first thing I did is replace it with one of the same voltage and capacitance, but as soon as turn the board on, it blew up. Normally this happens when overvoltage is applied to them. From my days of school, I know that to blow a capacitor like that, you have to apply at least 3 times the voltage. The wierd thing is that i measure only 24 volts on that capacitor.

That board was replaced only 9 months ago with a brand new one $250. after switching contractors after a bad experience with the first one, I went to a "trane" autorized dealer who wants $450 to replace the board again. The funny thing is that similar boards are for sale at $96. Of course I can not get the board from a trane distributor because I am not an HVAC guy. So since the coils are bad also, I decided to f.. trane and get a new airco.

I wanted to wait until the winter to get a better deal, but seems it will not be possible. Do you have any idea how much a 5 ton unit costs (inside + outside)? I am thinking in something like carrier, bryant or maybe york.
Old 07-08-03, 08:20 PM
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I did some checking around and found that you have a Direct Current controlled motor and the guys I talked to said you can't go straight to the motor, you have to control the motor thru the board. So, I apologize for not being up to speed on your unit right away. It's a shame that you've had a bad experience with Trane because they are one of the better units out there. Maybe you got the lemon. My experience [and that of many others] is that the last thing you want is Carrier, Bryant or York. Take a look at Amana and Rheem instead. I don't have any idea on pricing. The quality of the installation is what is most important. Before shopping, you may want to do your own load calculation. Go to www.hvaccomputer.com where you can download a homeowner version of the same load calc program that contractors use. It's $49. You'll notice that I recommend this to a lot of people. I have no finacial connection at all. I recommend it coz it's a good deal.
Old 07-09-03, 06:05 AM
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Thanks Bigjkohn for your time.

I guess i need to start shopping around.

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