AC Heatpump startup circuit component failure


Old 08-29-03, 02:57 PM
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AC Heatpump startup circuit component failure

Hello: I need some advice from the experts.

Recently one of my Goodman Heatpump has started giving problems. First the capacitor went bad (after 5 years of good service). The tech replaced the dual cap with two seperate caps. The small cap blew up again (within a month). This cap was also replaced with new one. Then a week later the starting element (resistor with a tap ) blew up (literaly with the black stuff all over). The Tech replaced this resistor element with a more expensive starting element (solid state). Charged me $160 for it. The question I have it is the following... all these issues came up within a month or so. All these problem seem to be in the starting circuit.

Is there a bigger problem which could be causing this? What could cause the starting circuit components to fail? The tech checked the freon pressure etc and everything was ok. He attributed this to just the heat in texas.

Also, what is solid state starting element?

Does it cost that high compared to the original resistor part ($35)?

Is it a good idea to replace the cap and starting element on the identical unit I have which is working fine so far?

What is a good place to get the goodman parts?

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Old 08-29-03, 05:50 PM
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typical goodman...

caps last about 5 yrs. it is ok to replace with 2 seperate caps if properly wired. the small cap was for the fan. not sure what you are talking about with resistor with a tap, possibly a hard start kit? or was that what was installed? in my book a "solid state starting element" is a piggyback on the capacitor terminals marked HERM and C. this increases voltage thereby lowering amp draw of the compressor..... torque multipliers they are also called. i use them to kick off stuck/tight compressors, but many like myself do not recommend leaving them on due to the long term wear on the compressor motor.
Old 08-31-03, 03:01 PM
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Start problems

Goodmans usually don't have a time delay on them. Get the OEM start cap, Run cap Potential relay and a 15000Ohm resistor to bridge between the terminals on the start cap only, wire in accordance with the instructions issued on the potential relay A time delay wired in series with the contactor coil, set to delay on make 5 minutes. Check your voltage! brownouts can cause this. If the tech comes back have him check the amp draw. on the compressor C wire. Don't do a one for one replacement. Check the manual for the proper Copeland, Techemseh, or Bristol. Don't forget that bleed resister or the potential relay will fail in no time.

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