Installing a new Oil Tank in basement

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Old 10-02-03, 01:09 AM
Nick
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Installing a new Oil Tank in basement

I looked at the fuel pump and its not a Suntec as you pointed out but rather a "DANFLOSS" Fuel Pump made in Denmark! Any suggestions on how to bypass the return on this model? Why can't I just remove the return line and install a 1/4" plug?


Can I put a 330 Gal. outside Fuel Tank in my Basement in the place of a 275 Gal. inside Tank? This would give me 55 more gallons of oil
 
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Old 10-02-03, 11:04 AM
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Oil tank

Id say------ what is code there for a oil tank inside.

On that oil pump I have never heard of it . Maybe Ken has. ED
 
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Old 10-02-03, 08:25 PM
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That will be a problem. On a Danfoss pump, the plug that gets removed to convert it to a 2 pipe system is a special fitting. If you plug the port, the pump will not work correctly. As a matter of fact, I think you will blow out the seal and ruin the pump. I can see if I have one laying around but I doubt it. You will also probably not be able to buy one anywhere because one comes with every pump and it should be retained in case of future conversion back to one pipe system. That pump is not popular anymore either. You would be well off to go out and buy a new Suntec A2VA7116 pump and replace what you have. I think they are around $45. It will bolt right on.
 
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Old 10-02-03, 08:35 PM
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I missed part two of your question on the first reply.
You can put a 330 inside with no problem. Or two 275s is OK also. Because the fire code restricts inside tanks to a total of 550 gallons.
 
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Old 10-03-03, 05:51 PM
Nick
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Installing a new Oil Tank in basement

Hi Ed & Ken, I found the original instruction manual on the Danfoss oil pump and it says......"This type of BFP fuel unit is equipped with an Automatic Bypass, it can operate on one pipe or two pipe installations. Use of a by-pass plug is not required.

It also says............

The type BFP fuel unit has a combined return and bleed plug. If an installation has to be altered from two pipe into one pipe, close the return port with original return/bleed or any standard 1/4" NPT plug. I'm relieved because a Suntec fuel pump is $88 at Grainger! Now all I need is a 1/4" plug!!!!! I pick up the 330 oil tank tomorrow, along with the 2"X 2" ventalarm, black pipe and 3/8" id copper tubing and get my damn heat back on!! I'll keep you posted if I run into any problems! Thanks!

Nick
 
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Old 10-04-03, 06:38 AM
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Moderators Note:

For the benefit of easy reading and following along on your question and this subject, I merged the two seperate threads into one.

Use te REPLY button to add any additional information or ask additional questions. Doing so will automatically move your question to the top of the forum list.
 
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Old 10-04-03, 08:42 AM
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Oil pumps

Ok you got it. Dont forget use pipe dope that will take oil. That new plug then is where you have to bleed it when you first turn the burner on. ED
 
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Old 10-04-03, 01:29 PM
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I still caution you because I know what the plug looks like that comes in that pump and it has a machined dowel about 1/2" long on the end of the plug to close the internal bypass port. That is why you need to save the original one. If you try it your way and blow the seal on the pump, what you will notice is that oil comes out around the shaft of the pump whether it is running or not. Much more when it is running. If that happens, don't spend $88 to get a pump from Grainger because that is way too much money. If all works well, let us know because I will have learned something.
 
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Old 10-04-03, 01:37 PM
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Oil pumps

With ken here on the pump . If you can buy from Johnstone supply pump there LIST at about $61.00. make sure you get the right RPM pump for the motor you have ED
 
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