1955 Hot Air House Heater?

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  #1  
Old 10-08-03, 03:25 AM
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1955 Hot Air House Heater?

Hello Everyone: I am on Disability with Heart related problems and cannot afford a New House Heater, although this one seems to be working, i wanted to know if there is a way i could get a manual, showing me how to take off the cover so i can check and oil the motor (should be done twice a year it states) and to look to make sure the Belt is not cracked or worn? Also the humidifier (small box on side of heater) is constantly dripping water into the Laundry tub, and i was told by a friend it might need a small (toilet type valve) for it, because the damper tray (he called it) is over flowing! The Heater has the name of "Fedders" on it and it is the original heater from 1955, although it seems to have newer looking parts on it, inside! Any help would be appreciated, Thanks, Tom
 
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  #2  
Old 10-08-03, 05:47 AM
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If you could provide model numbers, someone may be able to track this down for you.
 
  #3  
Old 10-08-03, 11:45 AM
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Ok, Chris, Thanks: Here is what i was able to read and everything is correct except the Serial Number which i read and am 99% sure it is right SERIAL NUMBER #00741627 and MODEL (cug) #105N3D Natural Gas less than 12AMPS ANS=Z21.47( forced air) REV=C BLOWER TYPE Direct Drive size=10-8, MAX esp in WC=.50 IMPUT Rating BTU/HR=105,000, BONNET Capacity=BTU/HR 84,000, Then it states "fedders Corp. Edison, New jersey 08817.
 
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Old 10-08-03, 12:06 PM
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To have a direct drive blower, I would think that the 74 in the serial number is probably the year of manufacture. Direct drive blowers were not used much until around then. That also rules out checking the belt for cracks as a direct drive blower has no belt. It may have oil cups on the motor but that can be a major contortion to get at them without pulling the blower. Hope it isn't as old as you predicted and may have more life left.
 
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Old 10-08-03, 12:14 PM
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You may be right, that it is 74 not 1955, but i just bought this house a couple of years ago and was told it was the original Heater, but maybe he was mistaken about that! The reason i thought it had a belt is because last year everytime the heater clicked off, there was this static noise going thru my tv until the (i guess) fan stopped spinning. it was only bothersome for less than a minute! However i turned it on for the first time this year and low and behold NO Static Noise, I dont know what happened? Also dont i have to get at those oil fill holes, to keep the motor running good? Thats why i would like a Manual to see exactly where they are!
 
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Old 10-08-03, 03:52 PM
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oil

The oilers are at each end of the motor of a sleeve bearing motor. Ball bearing motors in most cases are lifetime lube. Remove the housing cover and look. Thats what we do! With any luck there will be no ports to lubricate. More motors fail from lubrication than lack of it!
 
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Old 10-08-03, 04:41 PM
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t looks like the motor is in a narrow passage way at the bottom of the heater and i think it may have to be taken out to oil anything, which makes me think you may be right, that it is a permanent oil bearing motor. it looks like it was meant to NOT be able to get at it. Also, i had a friend of mine come in during the summer and it put an electrical outlet, just for a room AC on a line by itself and he tightened up all the screws in the circuit breaker box and one of them may have been causing the static thru the tv when the heater fan went off. Due to being loose! Does this make sense?
 
  #8  
Old 10-08-03, 05:30 PM
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look at that blower

taking a couple (2) screws out will generally allow the blower assy to slide out toward you
 
  #9  
Old 10-08-03, 06:08 PM
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I will try, its kinda narrow and the wall is on one side, I did get the filter out and it was dirty so i just blew it out with a wet/dry vac, in the back yard. BTW, does anyone know anything about the small humidifier on the side of the heater, what is happening with that is the water is constantly dripping into the laundry tub i took off the humidifier door and saw the tray in there and it was not over flowing, so i heard there was a type of float assembly that acts like the stopper inside the toilet tank only miniture size and i was told that might be worn and to replace it! The water should only drip out when the tray gets full of rust etc. and it stops the water from going into the heater itself! I believe in my case that in order to get access to the (guess its called) stop floater valve i have to shut off the water and unscrew this (looks like a little drum) on the side of the humidifier and pull out this thing and get a new one at home depot! Do you guys know what i am talking about and is that the way to get at it?
 
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Old 10-09-03, 05:44 AM
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humidifier

It's probly just a worn rubber washer....whats the worst that could happen? A bad leak? The 1/4" water line should have it's own shut off valve. The 24 volts that operate the unit comes from the furnace so shut that off too and disconnect the wires from it. Open 'er up and see what makes er tick!!! Have some fun with it. It's not rocket science. As long as you have a few basic tools and that all purpose cresent.
 
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Old 10-09-03, 09:30 AM
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hvac01453
You were right, i unscrewed the small drum next to the humidifier after shutting off the water via a little clamp on the quarter inch copper tubing with a little shutoff valve on it! Then i threw the switch to turn off the heater itself, killing all electric going into it! but when i unscrewed the little drum, it had a long screw sticking up with metal base to it (the screw sticking up was naturally holding on the drum cover! and there was a Rubber washer under that, but i could not get the metal base with the screw sticking up from it, to move upward so i could get the rubber washer out! Do you know if that just gets (pried up) or does that somehow unscrew too, i could not get it to move, maybe was in there a long time? Any thoughts on removal of stem?
 
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Old 10-09-03, 09:22 PM
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Air Filter

Tom,

I would suggest you go get a new air filter, and replace the one you just blew out.. By doing that don't do much, and also may damage it some what..
 
  #13  
Old 10-10-03, 03:45 AM
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Jay, Thanks, but i do think it looks good, there is no dirt in it now and it did not get damaged! Its a fairly new filter, i put it in when i first moved into the house! Also, when i could not get the washer out of that little drum on the side of the humidifier, i put it back together and all of a sudden it does not leak now, i cannot figure that out. Can Air in the line cause that over flow hose to leak all the time?
 
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Old 10-10-03, 04:22 AM
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water leaking,,....

You may have just inadvertantly dislodge/ removed some dirt under the washer when you were disturbing the area,....odds are it will start to leak again.....keep your fingers crossed. The air filterand the vac....if your in the "heating or eating group", the vac is better than no vac, ( what we see more times that not)...A fiberglass filter, what you most likely have, is less than a dollar at a harware store, the real filter,( pleated) is about $3.00
If you have AC and use the fiberglass filters, you will adventually need the coil cleaned and you may end up paying a days labor and [email protected] 60.00/hr....you do the math.
 
  #15  
Old 10-10-03, 04:45 AM
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what you most likely have, is less than a dollar at a harware store, the real filter,( pleated) is about $3.00 " HOOT MON", what are you dafted, spend a $1.00, bite your tongue!LOL!!! Actually the Air Condition needs a Compressor which i was told cost $500.00 and it was not a good idea to put on in because it is an old AC and something else might go wrong with it and i would be wasting my money.
 
  #16  
Old 10-10-03, 05:02 AM
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Ok, i just checked and it still is not leaking but i noticed the little drum that i unscrewed to look at the washer inside is HOT, is it suppose to be hot, when i turn the switch to Winter position on the humidifier i hear it Low humming inside, so i put it back to summer Mode for now, until i hear something from you guys!
 
  #17  
Old 10-10-03, 02:26 PM
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Ok, the reason it got hot was because it is IMHO suppose to leak into the laundry tub because the water must pass thru the little drum to keep it cool, you guys know more of WHY, then i do. So i am almost completely convinced that it may be happening naturally. So i will probably let that go, unless i hear different from the forum. One more thing is there is a aluminum type wire mesh inside the humidifier and it measures 14 and three quarters inch wide and same high. Also one inch thick, it is rotten and falling about, but they dont sell that size at home depot, anyone know where i can get some?
 
  #18  
Old 10-12-03, 05:18 PM
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humidifier

a drum humidifier is a rotating wire drum frame with a sponge wrapped about it. It has a dip tray to keep it wet. When the evaporator fan motor energizes, the 24V humidifier motor should energize as well, otherwise it shjould not rotate. If it's hot, the motor is most likely jambed (unable to rotate from the drum being jambed) or the bearings are rusted.
 
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