Gas/Hot Water System Not Working.

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  #1  
Old 10-20-03, 11:01 AM
Do_It_Andy
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Lightbulb Gas/Hot Water System Not Working.

Hi Pros,
I have a Gas (with hot water) heating system.

Four zones, i.e. four power heads located in the basement.

Two of which works fine (used for the the ground floor).

The other two (for the first floor) works only on manual mode. I replaced the power heads with new ones, they get overheated but will not work on automatic, they run non stop until I bring the lever back to automatic, then they stops.

Any clue?

Thanks in advance.
Andy.
 
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Old 10-20-03, 06:55 PM
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What brand are the zone valves or what do they look like? Also when you said manual I thought you meant there would be no heat if you didn't open them manually. But you also said they run non stop. That is a contradiction. Clear up the confusion and we'll help get you up and running.
 
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Old 10-21-03, 06:49 AM
Do_It_Andy
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Hi,
Sorry for the confusion. Let me try to re-describe the problem. First here are the product information.

Gold Series Zone Valves (570-573 series) made by TACO.

For more information, you can view the product by clicking on the link below.

http://www.taco-hvac.com/current_cat...oup_ID=570-573

Now this Valve, has a lever that you set to "automatic" (i.e. stays in a flat horizontal position) or "manual" ( when lifted up).
Mine does not send any heat when the lever is set to "automatic", I have to lift it up to the "manual" mode to get some heat in the rooms.
Problem is, room is overheated when set to "manual" mode, and to regulate the room temperature, I have to constantly pull it up and down.
Out of 4 zones, two are fine, other two are problematic.

FYI.
I also have a central air conditioner that worked fine this summer. So I can say the thermostat is not the problem.

Hope I've explain it better this time.
Thanks.
Andy.
 
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Old 10-21-03, 07:50 AM
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What electrical connections does it have? Any difference between how these ones are wired compared to the 2 that work?
 
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Old 10-21-03, 08:36 AM
Do_It_Andy
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The wiring seems Okay, all 4 are wired in exactly the same order. It was working fine before. But if you have wiring plan, I won't mind take a look at it again.

Thanks.
Andy
 
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Old 10-21-03, 09:20 AM
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It sounds like the valve is mounted in an inverted position. Correct me if I mis-understood. The lever on the head is in the auto position when it is toward the small end of the pyramid shaped head and away from the valve body.

Your problem may be the anticipator seting in the thermostat. Those valves draw almost 1 amp and that is alot by thermostat standards. Also the heating side of the thermostat is isolated from the a/c side so one may work fine and the other not. Let us know what model thermostat you are using. If it is the round Honeywell T87 then pull off the trim ring and look at about the 4 o'clock position and you will see the heat anticipator pointer. You will want this set all the way toward the bottom (I think) as far as it will go. The setting should be .9

That is the most common reason for a Taco zone valve not to work initially. The second is a defective head. The third is mis-wiring.

Don't attempt to remove the head from the valve until you have removed power from the #1 terminal (farthest from the valve body) and waited 3 or 4 minutes. The plunger can pop out and ruin the head.
 
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Old 10-21-03, 10:29 AM
Do_It_Andy
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The Thermostat's model is the round Honey well. You are correct about the position of the lever.
It seems like the anticipator could be the problem as I remember lifting the pointer slightly up at some point. But you said it should be pointing down?

Will check when I get home tonight and I'll let you know.

Thanks.
Andy
 
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Old 10-21-03, 10:49 AM
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Yes, down it is. The reason for that is because there is a small heating element inside the thermostat that generates just enough heat to stop the thermostat from calling for heat just a few minutes before the room reaches the setpoint. Then the residual heat in the baseboards brings the room up to the setpoint. With the Taco zone valves, they draw so much current that unless it is set at .9 it will either prevent the valve from opening, or it might open partially, then close and keep doing that, or if the anticipator is set way too low, it will actually burn out and the thermostat won't work for heat at all. Let us know what you find.
 
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Old 10-22-03, 11:17 AM
Do_It_Andy
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Unhappy

Hi There,
No Luck. Anticipator is set to .9 and still no heat. The Valve becomes very hot though.
Andy.
 
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Old 10-22-03, 11:30 AM
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The heat sems to indicate that you have things wired correctly. The head operates on heat from an electric element inside. Get another head and replace it and that should be the answer. If you can open it manually (which you said you can) the valve can't be stuck. Look on the side of the lever and you will see the date of manufacture stamped there. See how old it is. Remember to remove the #1 wire and wait a few minutes before taking it off. Turn it slightly clockwise and it will pop off. Don't put the wires on the new one until it is installed.
 
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Old 10-22-03, 12:51 PM
Do_It_Andy
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There are three wires out there.
I have a blue, a yellow and a red.
The blue one is nearer to the valve, then yellow, then red (red being nearer to the top of the pyramid).

Correct me if I am wrong, if I have to replace the Valve, I will have to do it in the following order?
1) Unscrew the BLUE wire from the actual TACO Valve,

2) Then twist remove the valve with the other two wires still attached to it?

3) Then twist in the new one?

4) Wait a few minutes, and then start connecting the wires to the new valve, starting with the blue?

Thanks for the help.
Andy.
 
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Old 10-22-03, 01:35 PM
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The red one would be #1 if it is farthest away from the pipe and valve body. That is usually the top. Remove the #1 wire and wait at least 3 minutes. Then remove the head and install the new one. Then swap the other wires. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Ken
 
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Old 10-23-03, 06:23 AM
Do_It_Andy
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Thank you Ken,
It worked. I am so glad I didn't gave up.
I had one extra head, used one, I decided to give a try last night by following the steps you suggested.
And it worked!
I still have another one to fix but at least now I know what is the problem.

Thanks once again. I'll touch base if I need more help.
Andy.
 
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Old 10-23-03, 05:47 PM
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Caution

The 40 VA common transformers are only good for 3 zones, if a fourth calls, you may loose the transformer. If you do, get the 50 VA by Mars with the built in fuse. Then if it blows, because you accidently short out the low side, or overload it, you wont have to buy another.
 
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