hot water heat/bleeding the system

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  #1  
Old 10-20-03, 07:13 PM
pandol
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hot water heat/bleeding the system

We replaced the pump & motor to our boiler and we bled all the lines until we had a steady stream of water coming out of each but we do not have heat on the second floor. We then bled the line to the second story again but there was barely any water coming out. We opened the line to refill the water into the boiler and bled the line again but the baseboards on the second floor are still not getting warm. What do we do now?
 
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Old 10-21-03, 06:58 AM
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Are you zoned? Maybe the zone valve is not opening up to let the water flow go up stairs..


Or you may have a valve that maybe a set zone flow.. See if that valve or any type of valve are open going upstairs.


Check on your baseboard also to make sure you have bleeder valve on the baseboard itself, I am sure it's air locked upstairs. So bleed all of the baseboards.
 
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Old 10-21-03, 10:16 AM
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boiler

Does this boiler have a auto fill there for the water. If so it should be on all the time. What is the psi there on the boiler. Should be about 18psi for a 2 story home. Are what ever it takes to get water to come out that top bleeder. You have to have the psi on the boiler to where you will get the air and water out of the top bleeder there on the second story. Not any more than that ED
 
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Old 10-22-03, 06:48 AM
pandol
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bleeding the system

Is the zone valve you are talking about right next to the spicket used to bleed the line? We do not have bleeders on the baseboards themselves. We bled all of the lines in the basement.

Our boiler does not have auto fill. We have to open the line manually when we are bleeding the lines. The PSI is at 12 which the directions on the boiler said to get it at.

When you say top bleeder - do you mean the bleeder for the line that goes to the second story or do you mean the spicket on the boiler itself?

Lastly, to make sure we are doing it right - do you close the valve (turn it horizontal to pipe) next to each spicket as you are bleeding it and then open it after you bleed the line?

Is is possible that we stripped a valve while bleeding the system and it is stuck closed?

Sorry for so many questions - I'm just having a hard time understanding how to bleed the system properly.
 
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Old 10-22-03, 07:17 AM
Ed Imeduc's Avatar
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boiler

Dont know for sure there but it takes about 18 to20 psi for a two story home to get water up to the top there. Look in the directions again. No heat you still have air in it. ED
 
  #6  
Old 10-23-03, 06:52 PM
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with the pumps OFF

With the boiler at 0 PSI (by draining it some) use a tire pump to pump the extrol air bladder tank to 18PSI. Add water till the boiler gauge reaches, 18PSI. Leaving the fill on, it should not go over about 18PSI. If it won't reach that...loosen/tighten the nut on the top of the water pressure regulator till it does. Then put the lever back in place. Now bleed the high points of each zone. Once its free of air and the boiler is at 18PSI still,... fire it up. Test each zone separately, using the two thermostats.

(The ball valve handle parallel with the pipe means it's open, and should be at all times.)
 
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Old 10-23-03, 08:07 PM
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What you need to do is purge, not bleed. Put a hose on the drain valve for one zone. Close the balancing valve (the lever that should be perpendicular to the pipe forit to be closed) and open the hose drain valve beneath or next to it. Then open the water feed valve and let the high volume of water push the air back down and out the hose. It works best if you submerge the hose end in a bucket so you can see when the small air bubbles stop coming out. Then close the feed (since you don't have an auto feed) and close the hose drain. Make sure you still have 15-18 psi and open the balancing valve. You will than have that zone purged. It will circulate and heat as expected.
 
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