How to bleed oil furnace?

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Old 08-28-04, 11:10 AM
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Question How to bleed oil furnace?

Would somebody be willing to provide the steps to bleed my oil furnace? I replaced the lines to the furnace (dropped from top instead of fed from bottom). I understand how the bleeding process works, but I don't want to mess up and blow myself to bits.

It's a one-line system, 3/8 copper tubing. There's a bleed screw on the pump. I see a switch inside the furnace that has settings for 'Auto' and 'Manual' which I assume controls how the furnace comes on. There's also a red button which I guess to be the reset button.

Thank you in advance!

Brian
 
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Old 08-28-04, 11:48 AM
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Dont know what all you did. Best to run it on the floor if just one line. Turn power on tstat calling for heat. Open that bleeder hit the reset should run, close bleeder when unit goes off. hit reset open bleeder. Have a can under it. do this till now foam or the oil burner lights.
That Auto and Manual you saw can be for the blower not the burner.

ED
 
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Old 08-28-04, 02:53 PM
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Here's a view of the inside of my furnace:

Large View

or

Smaller View

I now see two red reset buttons; one on the motor, and one up above it. Which is the one I should use?

Backing up a step, I am using the thermostat to kick the furnace on, right?

Just trying to understand. One last thing... you said that "it's best to run it on the floor if just one line"--do you mean that with a one line system it's better to pull from the bottom of the tank rather than the top? If so, why? I talked extensively with my fuel oil delivery company (who sells and installs tanks as well) and he saw no problem with running one line from the top; in fact, he told me it's better because you're not sucking in the sludge & junk from the bottom of the tank (which I seem to understand).

Thanks again for the help & I look forward to your response.

Brian
 
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Old 08-28-04, 04:20 PM
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I now see two red reset buttons; one on the motor, and one up above it. Which is the one I should use?
That one on the stack control. Forget the one on the motor now its just for the motor. Not a thing to do with the burner

The one up high is the fan control should be on AUTO and let it alone

, he told me it's better because you're not sucking in the sludge & junk from the bottom of the tank (which I seem to understand).
Sorry a lot of BULL. Its hard on the pump, you want that yuck to come out and get in the filter there on the tank. if you let all that yuck in the bottom of the tank it will just rust out the tank faster. Each time you change the filter on the tank its going to be hard to bleed the pump. When you go up over head that way you should go 2 stage on the pump and 2 lines. Where is the filter at????.

looks like you have a lot of blow back there, is the flue and furnace clean?????? How is the draft???? new nozzle????? set the electrode assemblies right ?????
like to know where the filter is.

ED
 
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Old 08-28-04, 04:54 PM
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Well, it's too bad that I didn't talk to you sooner. I was debating whether or to to pull from the top or bottom (previously it was the bottom); all indications were that top was better. I see your point as well; better to clean that stuff out at the filter rather than have it lay in the tank.

The furnace is quite old (30+ years if I had to guess). The pump was replaced a year ago. I anticipate replacing the furnace in the next few years with a newer, more efficient model (and I might investigate a fuel other than oil). The things you've mentioned (blow back, draft, electrode assemblies) are semi-greek to me; I have a basic understanding of what these things are, but I can't speak to the condition of any of it. It sounds like by just looking at that picuture, you can see some 'not so good' conditions.

My first order of business is to get the furnace up and running; after that I'd love to get in there & check things out/clean things up. If you'd like to elaborate on what you see (blow back & such) I'd appreciate that, but that's up to you.

The filter is in the line about three feet from the tanks. I took it apart and thoroughly cleaned it and put a new filter in. I'll change the filter again mid-winter since I was messing around with the tanks. If it makes a difference at all, the filter is below tank level (so the line shouldn't drain back into the tank when changing the filter... don't know if that's good or bad).

Again, thanks for your help and comments...

Brian
 
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Old 08-28-04, 05:10 PM
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Id pull that stack control and clean it off with a soft brush. put it back in just as far as it is now.
To see what fuel you think you want go

www.warmair.net and compare fuel cost

ok go read on or about the burner.

www.freepoolheat.com/oil.html

You have to put a new nozzle in it and reset the electrodes.

DONT DONT move the nozzle in or out from what it is set at. Also there is a small blower there on the burner you will see it when you open up the transformer, make sure it is clean all of the small blades in it . Dont set the air for a hard flame you want a soft flame with just now and then a little smoke.

Hope it helps

ED
 
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Old 09-03-04, 10:03 AM
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I noticed that you mentioned 'tanks'. Do you have more than one oil tank? If so, how did you connect everything together?

You will still get air in there because there will be air in the filter cup when you clean it out and you will have to prime the pump after the filter change. As Ed says, it is a pain in the neck when the fuel lines come from the top of the tank and you try to do it with only a single pipe system.

Ken
 
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