Replacement for honeywell gas valves

Old 10-19-04, 10:31 PM
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Replacement for honeywell gas valves


I live in a 1200 sq. ft, single floor home, with crawl space below, attic above. The attic is insulated with R30 blown in insulation. The walls are insulated, not sure with what, however. Windows are new, double paned. My current heating solution is two gravity fed, top-vented Williams natural gas wall furnaces. Both are model HAC-35SD. (One is actually says HA-35SD, without the "C"), 35K BTU/hr input, 24.5K BTU/hr output, 15K min by-pass. I believe both are original to the home (1962).

The previous owners claimed they never used the furnaces in the 9 years they lived here. So, I called a local HVAC company to check both furnaces for safety reasons. It turns out that the tech couldn't even get gas to either pilot. On one furnace, he checked the silver tube leading to the pilot to make sure it was unblocked -- it was free of obstructions. He then verified that there is actually gas getting to the valves on both furnaces. I believe he even took the line to the pilot off the valve to see if gas was present on the pilot side of the valve. Since he couldn't get gas out the other side, his conclusion was that both valves are bad and need to be replaced.

My first question is whether there is anything further that that I might be able to do to verify whether the valves are working, or to get them working?

My second question is, if I have to replace the valves, what is the correct replacement part for the valves? The valve in one of the furnaces has quite a few numbers and labels on it: Honeywell, 1/2 PSI, T5298A, -285 LX4, V5269E1122 3, V5106A, and 4.0FG. The other valve looks very similar. Do you guys have a ballpark number on how much such a replacement valve might run?

The tech quoted me about $800 to replace both valves and replace shut off handles to the furnaces. (The shut-off handles work but have had their arms snapped off at some point, so turning them on and off requires a wrench.) This seems pretty high to me, so I thought I'd try to get the valves myself and then have a pro install them for me.

Thanks for any pointers or suggestions you might have.

Old 10-20-04, 07:43 AM
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Hello Jonathan. Welcome to the Heating Furnaces forum topic and the Do It Yourself Web Site.

First thing to do, depending upon the are in CA you live, is call the gas company. Assuming the fuel is nat gas and not propane. Southern CA has and provides free minor services to all nat gas appliances.

Shut off valves can be installed to replace existing ones for a small fee. Inquire. Be aware, wall furnaces are often difficult to do this type of work on. Prices vary with service agents, as a result.

Gas company rep will verify gas is supplied to the contol units. I am almost sure it is. All heating agents verify such (or should) when not pilot gas is present to the gas control valve which does not supply pilot gas.

If the heating service person needs to replace both gas control valves on each heater to make them operational, allow the person/company rep to do so. Purchasing those types of expensive parts yourself defeats and or voids the part warranties under private sales to non commerical persons. Also likely service agent will not install customer purchased parts for liablility reasons, etc.

Based upon the excellently detailed and well explained info you provided, the job done thus far by the heating agent was done correctly and professionally.

Part interchanges for non existing parts (gas controls in this case) is always best left to the pros to determine, for safety and proper heating unit operations, etc, in my opinion.
Old 10-20-04, 02:26 PM
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in my experience, with gas flow to the valve, and being unable to get gas out to the pilot, valve does sound bad.

i have worked on very few wall units, but my advice holds true with gas systems i have worked on
Old 10-21-04, 07:41 PM
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Thanks very much for your responses. I appreciate the advice! I've scheduled an inspection with PG&E. I'll let you guys know the results. Keep up the good work!


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