nat gas to propane

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Old 11-26-04, 09:56 AM
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nat gas to propane

I have a Wonder-vent heater mounted in the garage to heat the garage up when im out there working in the winter now (Ohio).
I am trying to convert it from Nat gas to Propane.

From what I gather its just a new nipple size that needs to be replaced.

I cannot find the manufacturer website or any info where or how I can do this.

the model number is 9830 and the serial no is 01519.
input BTU 30,000
output BTU 21,000

what do I need to do?
 
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Old 11-26-04, 10:29 AM
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Exclamation

Did a search on your brand of heater and as you found there wasn't any information.
Is this a "space" heater?
Ceiling hung heater?
I am not an expert in this field however these are questions that will need to be answered in order for the experts to reply.
The conversion if able to be done will take much more than a nipple replacement. Including possible regulator replacement or reconfiguration,and/or orfice changes.Watch this post for answers from our PROS.
Good luck and post back
 
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Old 11-26-04, 11:38 AM
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thank you for your help.

its a ceiling hung unit that hangs from the rafters in the garage. there is a squirrel cage attached to a motor (small, the motor is size of cofee cup) and there is a regulator on it. so far what i have done, is soldered the nipple shut and then drilled outr a hole approx 40% the diameter of initial hole.
it works as is, however it does not work at i believe it should. theres not alot heat and I have yello flame. the flame should be blue.

anything else i can put on here to assist, just let me know.
 
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Old 11-26-04, 12:09 PM
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Generally 2 things have to be done when converting.
1. The orrifice needs to be replaced. Propane orrifices are smaller then Nat gas.
2. Either the gas valve or just a portion of it has to be replaced.

Not doing both is dangerous to say the least.
 
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Old 11-26-04, 01:33 PM
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Arrow Suspended Heater Conversion Information

Hello: squirrel

The appliance regulator must be converted to natural gas or replaced with a natural gas regulator if the current one is not convertable or is a built in part of the appliances gas control valve. The regulator cannot be left as is, set up for propane and allow the suspended heater to operate as such.

The BTU input is the rated amount. That amount of BTU is used as one factor to determine the orifice size. Water colume pressure set by the regualtor, is noted on the part. Usually 2.5 or 4.0 or 4.5 inches of water colume pressure. The pressure OUT of the regulator. Water colume pressure is the other factor used to determine orifice hole diameter.

Orifice is the item you drilled out and referred to as a pipe. I often describe that part (orifice) as a "Timble" looking part, for descriptive purposes only.

Does not really matter what term anyone uses to describe the orifice here in this case. I know what part you are refering to. The clue I used to know what part you mean is in your statement, you drilled it out. We all are now referring to the same part.

The correct orifice size should be:

@ 3.5 inches of water colume
# 38 or # 37
38 ='s 29,400 btu's
37 ='s 30,000 btu's

@ 4.0 inches of water colume
# 39 ='s 30,300 btu's
# 40 ='s 29,300 btu's

@ 4.5 inches of water colume
# 41 ='s 29,000 btu's

So it is very important to know the water colume pressure out of the regulator or gas control valve in order to determine the correct btu rated orifice. The pressure rating is stamped into the regulator as noted above.

VIP:
***ALL the above applies ONLY if there is ONE burner. Which is likely to be the case. If there is or are multiple burners, the total btu's is than divided up equally by the number of burners to equal the total output of the heater.***

The heater has yellow flames because the regulator was not converted over to nat gas and or because the orifice is not sized correctly for the application. Or BOTH apply.

To correct the conditions, suggest you visit any local heating parts retail supplier. Obtain the correct parts and install them per instructions.

Sharp Advice. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

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Old 11-26-04, 01:58 PM
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You dont say how many orifice's you have there now . All I can go on is say you have just one orifice there. You need a #52 orifice size or drill .0635 that will give you 29,820 Btu have to lock out the regulator there in the valve and let the outside regulator take over at 11 " W/C off the Lp tank. Dont know for sure but on some furnaces you have to change the burners also . For Nat to LP. If you still have the regulatorin the gas v alve is why you dont have the pressure you need.

ED
 
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Old 11-26-04, 02:58 PM
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ok great. i should have this hammered out shortly.

trinitro,
1.) propane burns hotter than nat gas, and thus the reason why i reduced the orifice by ~60%.
2.) per your insight, sharp advice, ed i have not touched the regulator.

sharp advice,

yer info is most educational and much appreciated.

let me describe how i think ed's advice is the easiest/cheapest to utilize.
the house was nat gas. now we had a ~7 foot long , ~3 foot diameter propane tank put in(were out in the boonies). a copper pipe runs from that big tank over to a small(size of a saucer) green round(about 6-7 inch) i imagine regulator. from that regualtor (regulator A) a steel pipe runs into house and goes everywhere.
so coming into garage, we have a steel pipe that goes to another regualtor (regulator B) which has the pilot control on it and such at this furnace.

2 options:

1.) If im reading this correctly, sharp advice, yer telling me that regulator B has a water colume pressure stamped on it. now assuming i dont have to replace this regulator, i can find the water pressure, then look at the numbers you gave and deduce what size drill i need.

or

2.) eds adivce, lockout regualtor and then drill eds quoated .0635 diameter hole and let regulator A do the "regulation" which im assuming is some standard pressure for a house stated by ed at 11 W/C(whatever W/C means).

and i only have 1 burner here as assumed.

sharp advice, i would like to goto local heating parts store, however i did this and thats where we soldered/redrilled and put back together. after installing, the flame from the burner was a joke.
so i simply redrilled the hole about 2 X bigger then the 1 he drilled. now the flame is bigger, however yellow and its still not hot enuff.
at this orifice size, its still smaller than the original (nat gas) orifice diameter by about 60%.

phew, thats alot to type.
 
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Old 11-26-04, 03:16 PM
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Wink

What I gave you is off my chart . For Btu With Lp you have to have 11"W/C off the # two regulator and lock out one that is in the gas valve.

ED
 
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Old 11-26-04, 03:32 PM
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alright ed, i think i figured it out.

http://www.andersonforrester.thomasr...r/orifcapa.htm

so, from this chart, i need what u sed, make sure there is 11 inches of water coming into Orifice with .0635 dia hole in it.

yes/no?
 
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Old 11-26-04, 05:12 PM
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My HUGE Error

Hello: squirrel

I made a HUGE error. All my fault! Kindly EXCUSE me.

I read the conversion you wanted to make incorrectly. Just re read your original posted question. The conversion is FROM NAT gas TO PROPANE.

I am embarr-a-s-sed... I made that error. First time for everything I guess and this was the first time best as I can recall. Exactly what happens when a question is not read correctly. But it does happen and when it does, one should step up to the plate (Belly Up To Be Bar?") and admit so. I do so.

Thus the info I provided is to convert from propane to nat gas.
I have been in the nat gas industry far too long and soooooo use to replying to members asking the opposite conversion info...I Goofed Up!...YIKES!

Almost all the prior info does not apply to the situation.

What does apply is the heater is commonly known in the industry as a suspended heater. The pipe part is referred to as an orifice.

I'll bow out of here and let the PROPANE pros help you further.....
 
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Old 11-27-04, 07:44 AM
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Are you sure Wonder-vent is the manufacture or is it just a model line?? I've never heard of it before.
 
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Old 11-27-04, 03:06 PM
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Either way, i still cant find anything on the net with it.

There is a model # which is above in this thread. this is all on a aluminum plate that is riveted to the unit.
im pretty sure thats the manufacturer.

I could be wrong. I cant find any more names on it anywhere.
 
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