Replacing Ignition Module on Amana Furnace


  #1  
Old 03-24-05, 08:34 AM
Harley Landis's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 18
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Replacing Ignition Module on Amana Furnace

My ignition module on my Amana Hi-efficiency unit is not sending the signal to the gas valve to open. All the limits are working, and the only thing left is the module itself.

Looking online, I have found replacements for every other Robertshaw HS ignition module, but they all seem to be 120V. My unit requires a 240V control module.

If I go to Johnstone Supply, (or any other reputable dealer), should they be able to cross reference a module that will work in my furnace?
 
  #2  
Old 03-24-05, 04:06 PM
M
Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: San Jose,Ca
Posts: 1,277
Upvotes: 0
Received 3 Upvotes on 3 Posts
Are you sure it is a 240v module . Please supply module number
 
  #3  
Old 03-24-05, 10:09 PM
Harley Landis's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 18
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
High Voltage Module

Yes. It's a Robertshaw HS708-34NR-308B (Amana P/N C64858-03). It is
240v/24v. I found one online (There are none at any suppliers near me)
which is supposed to be a direct replacement. Which leads me to another
question.

The original module has the following wiring hook-up:

TH, VALVE, GD, RS, L1, IGN, IGN, L2 --- all pretty simple.

The "replacement" has an extra terminal marked TR. What is it?

I'd appreciate knowing if this is something which can be left as is, or if some
type of jumper needs to be put on to make it a "replacement" for my
original module.
 

Last edited by Harley Landis; 03-24-05 at 11:23 PM. Reason: Wrong part number
  #4  
Old 03-25-05, 10:28 AM
Harley Landis's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 18
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Fyi -

Just a quick follow-up. The "TR" terminal on this replacement module is
a ground for the 24V side of the system. I was able to contact someone at the supply house who said it can be left open, or can be grounded to the furnace frame as an added protection for the module. (Guess what I'm going to do.)

Thanks for your input, and good luck on your further projects.

_______________________________________

When you eliminate all the possibilities, one by one, whatever is
left, however unlikely, is the solution. --- Sherlock Holmes
 
  #5  
Old 03-27-05, 11:07 AM
Harley Landis's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 18
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Final Solution

I got my new control by express mail yesterday. The furnace is working--- it turned cooler today and we need it!

The main problem was that the original control is obsolete, and I was worried about trying to get a "direct" replacement. I've had techs from several companies out over the past couple of years, and either I've been unlucky or there are just no good techs available here. Anyway, I got myself educated on this unit, and repaired it myself. I now know that the techs who have been here either didn't care or didn't know how to diagnose the problems. I could have bought a new packaged unit for what I've spent in repairs over a two year period.

Happy (warm) Easter, gang!
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: